Re-ring...nozzle issues??? Tired of project

Torinojts

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Well I got about 1,000 miles on a fresh rebuild. Started on this project seven years ago. Took most advise from a machine shop I wish I never knew....long story short, after truck was completely restored took on test drive and power completely sucked, lots of black smoke and high EGTS, also would run on the hot side. This was only a ten mile drive.

Installed a new radiator and a 15lb cap. Removed turbo and machine shop put a wicked wheel on, so that is what i had thought. Took on test drive 20 miles and pulled up to a stop to turn around and steam everywhere. Oil light came on and found oil temp to be over 250*. Shut off and let cool while climbing around found blew a frost plug. (Machine shop said they had all the right idi tooling for the job). Get truck towed home.

After getting home started up and sounded normal, so i pulled the engine. Borrowed a tool to install frost plugs and got the correct stainless steel ones. Back together and engine in.

Another test drive and still power did not seem right. After 20 miles headed home and pulled air to air piping and fell of oil. So i sent the turbo to CLASIC DIESEL.(thanks by the way). Had it completely rebuilt and upgrades added. Test drive again and it was like a completely different truck. Had all kinds of power. I was thrilled.

Put on about 500 miles and started to hear a ticking sound. So i figured it was coming from the right hand side rear of engine. Pulled valve cover and ran and cannot pinpoint a rocker or valve issue so reassembled. Check oil and added 1, new engine figured still breaking in. I needed the truck so did not do anymore looking. Took truck to get a car trailer. On way home i was bucking a 50mph wind so the engine did work a little. Get home and when letting off the throttle you can noticable hear the ticking sound and at stead slow speeds in the 1500 rpm range. Pulled truck in shop and removed air to air piping and full of oil. Ran engine with oil cap off and it is splattering oil out. Pissed off i was done for the night.

The next day started up to check the blow by again and engine cranked a long time before starting. Started and died. Cranked again started and engine spit and sputtered pretty bad like it had air in the fuel system also heavy gray smoke.

Not sure how to post a video from my iPad? When running though absolutely no smoke out of tail pipe. BTW has R&D stage 1 nozzles, pump, and an R&D cam. CDD turbo. Supposed to have a balanced rotating assembly as well.
 

79jasper

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Imo, ip timing is likely off.
I would say you're surging and hard starting is a fuel supply problem.
Although sounds like you could have a lot of blowby.
To upload video, upload it to youtube, then copy the link.

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Torinojts

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Torinojts

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Some vids aren’t all that good. Lope at startup first part you can hear it hunting and the gray smoke, after running and warmed up no smoke out of tailpipe.
 

Torinojts

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Checked timing and right at 8*. Electric fuel pump, ill check fuel issue later, just want to figure out ticking noise and blow by. Before pulling engine i want to check compression. Any reasonable diesel compression testers?
 

Shadetreemechanic

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I use cheapo diesel compression tester from harbor freight. You have to modify the glowplug adapter for an IDI, but the injector adapter works fine.
Your tick does sound similar to mine.
that blowby from the oil fill is similar to all three of my IDI's. Try giving it throttle next time. The blowby should all disappear on a healthy engine as soon as you give it throttle.
 

Thewespaul

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Well the turbo sounds good! Bummed you’ve had so many other issues. To me, the tick doesn’t sound fuel related. What is your oil pressure at right now with the tick? I think your best course of action would be to do a compression test or a leak down test next. What valve springs were used with the cam? If you didn’t see anything under the valve cover probably have a bad lifter.
 

Torinojts

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The turbo does sound awesome and really performs well... oil pressure is around 12 at idle hot. When i ran it with valve covers off I had good oil flow out the rockers. The noise sounded like it was coming from #8 cylinder.....Well i found my ticking noise, will get to that’s later.....pulled all glow plugs, started with #8. When pulled I noticed the tip was burnt off?? They are motor craft glow plugs not cheap ones.
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Torinojts

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Performed a compression test. #8 had 0. All the rest barely 300psi, so out coms the engine. Got the heads off and what a bucket of worms I opened. A 1000 mile engine looks like a 300,000+ mile engine. All intake valves were beating on the pistons.
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Torinojts

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Now the first time I assembled this, the cam was lined up on the Dots and I ran it. I removed the cam and timed it 1 tooth to the left. R&D Cam, i did not originally get directions. I thought that is what caused this. Only two valves were polished(no carbon) and a couple pistons. So I know the valves are still hitting. I pulled the front cover and timing is still correct.
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Torinojts

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The cylinders are all polished except for one. Looks like the engine got dusted. The liners are so worn i cannot get some of the pistons out with out cutting the ridge. Pulled the intake all apart and air filter and no signs of dust.
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Torinojts

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Now here is the kicker. Is the boost holding open the valves? This is in a 75 ford so wind and road noise is louder than normal. I have never heard the valves float.

I had all the pistons shaved to be well with in spec, so they are not coming out of the deck to far. I did clay the valves and clearance was a little tight for me, due to the decking.

I recall taking the heads to a different machine shop this time to have the valves recessed a little more, as they were on the edge of spec...soooo I pulled a couple intake valves and to my surprise NO SHIMS!!! I did put 30 thou shims in because I installed comp springs....and now no shims. Would this explain why just the intake valves are hitting? Also why such bad wear in the cylinders???
 
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