fuel return priming system...

Selahdoor

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Welcome to Oilburners, TinRat. :D

None of your links seem to be working.
 

tinrat

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Welcome to Oilburners, TinRat. :D

None of your links seem to be working.
Sorry, they are not links! I’m not here to advertise. But they are copied and pasted from ads that I purchased from. A search should put you in touch with somebody selling. I just give .6134 cents worth (after taxes)! And look to the true mechanics to assess my ideas with there thought...
 

tinrat

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Sorry, they are not links! I’m not here to advertise. But they are copied and pasted from ads that I purchased from. A search should put you in touch with somebody selling. I just give .6134 cents worth (after taxes)! And look to the true mechanics to assess my ideas with there thought...
I have a 91 f450 that gave me these same problems and am in process of adding a couple check valves and maybe a cheap electric pump. I have a 91 f350 with the pump installed. Have used it like that for a couple years. Have a 89 Dodge Cummins with the cheap pump in it. Saved me several times when the mechanical pump gave out. I see it as a good safety net and that never hurts with old trucks... as for check valves, I haven’t had any hands on to attest to but I believe they will be very helpful, possibly to the point no auxiliary pump will be needed! But I still will keep them on all my trucks.
 

tinrat

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The best resistor I ever saw was the PO's aftermarket battery terminals on my '91. He had used the cable clamp type and on each bolt, connected the driverside battery and starter line. Bad bad bad line loss.
More of my ramblings... I dislike the Battery setup Ford uses. If the power cable between batteries becomes corroded in anyway, the power delivered from drivers side battery is useless. I make all my own cables up and always run power to starter from both batteries and connect both positive sides together.
 

nelstomlinson

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Tinrat, I did some calculating, and came to the conclusion that the stock battery setup would be hard to beat without either significantly shortening the cables, or making them significantly fatter. Probably the best thing we could do would be to put both batteries down low, near the starter and side by side. The starter current draw is so big that even the tiny resistance of 00 and 0000 cable makes for meaningful voltage drops.

If we aren't going to make major changes, probably best to just make sure the battery cables are not corroded in any way.
 

IDIBRONCO

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I work on my own old stuff because I was brought up poor. I can usually get by on older. Diesels because they don’t require sophisticated electronic knowledge. I hate making people rich that don’t deserve it. Just call me cheap!
I like your way of thinking. I don't think you're cheap, I think you're smart. Another reason that I have to work on my own stuff is that I'd have an awful hard time finding somebody else that would do things the way that I want them done. Plus there's always the satisfaction of doing things yourself.
 
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