it lives!! haha swapped the batteries out cranked for about 5 seconds and dialed too life.. I didnt see it leaking around the caps either so i think shes fixed haha i let it run for a bit.
definitely the first video. i never really paid much attentiok to how fast it was turning over but seeing it with a new starter and fresh batteries was night and day. im just glad to move on to the next challenge a leveling kit i bought for it awhile back. Thanks guys for all your help.Great! If you can watch those videos above, tell me how fast it was cranking in comparison.
I learned that one cannot get ingnition with spraying ether in the absence of fuel.
The best resistor I ever saw was the PO's aftermarket battery terminals on my '91. He had used the cable clamp type and on each bolt, connected the driverside battery and starter line. Bad bad bad line loss.I did some calculating the other day. I figure that the passenger side battery does about 2/3 of the work in turning the starter. That one gets the heaviest load, and if it's a little weak, you have a big problem.
Sometimes it's hard to determine exactly what the situation is. It could be one thing. It could be another. When we volunteer our advice, we aren't look ing at anything. There's so many things it can be. Bad connection. Bad solenoid. Bad battery. Bad something.night and day.
Those are nothing compared to the sounds that came out of mine after replacing injectors. Teeth grinding, hair pulling, stress out noises of interference and or ...I guess I got lucky
I have a $12 electric pump between mechanical pump and filter I turn it on for a couple minutes before I start truck. Don’t seem to matter if its on or off after truck starts.You are way over complicating things.
1. Changing the oil filter will in no way affect how your truck runs.
2. Maybe something has changed, but some members that tried the early rails had trouble getting them to seal. There's a lot of tolerance in the injector height and spacing. Basically what I'm saying is the injectors may not be centered in the rail. IE: causing drain back.
There's a duck bill in the tank on the return line that is supposed to help keep it from draining, when not under pressure. Maybe yours is gone. You don't want to add anything else to the return system, as that will affect ip housing pressure.
Long as the check valve is diesel rated, it will work.
You could also just swap to a electric pump. I don't think I've seen anyone do it, but you could put a electric pump between the mechanical lift pump and the filter.
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Question? Why couldn’t one put a check valve into the line returning fuel to filter? It would benefit by not allowing fuel to be “sucked” from filter while sitting yet still allow excess fuel to be returned to filter posing less “push” on return to tank lines while running?No, steve, I'm not sure. Temperatures have been low enough that I'm not trying to work on anything I can't start and drive into the shop.
Next time I get my problem child into the shop, I'll put in a new e-pump, change out that Schrader valve and the fuel filter, and remove the return line from the fuel filter housing. I also have new seals for the supply hard lines between mechanical pump and filter, and between filter and injection pump, and some low-durometer orings to try to seal the stupid return caps that won't stop leaking now that I put on new caps and new orings.
Yes, I did carefully check the inside of the new caps and they were smooth. I did lube the orings, and I did feel the return caps snap down into place.
fuel heater o rings leaks are a common source of air leaks. I hope some of this helps get your truck started.