Your pump is putting fuel out so its not bad, it’s just not cranking quick enough to build pressure to fire the injectors. Dropping down to 7 or 6 volts means your batteries are not up to *****.
fuel return priming system...
- Thread starter Nick_Rego
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- 7.3 idi e-fuel electric pump fuel
I agree with Wes and others. Not cranking fast enough.
Replace the batteries, even if you recently did so.
If that still doesn't work...
Pull the injector lines off at least one side, (So you can keep the clamps on them, so they are easier to put back on.)(And I mean, all the way off. Not just off the injectors.)... And run a wire through them.
Also, have you had the cap off of the IP yet?
If you are going to replace the IP, you are going to have to remove those lines anyway. Might as well get some practice.
And you really should take the cap off and see what the pump looks like inside. Make sure the governor rod moves freely. Etc.
Replace the batteries, even if you recently did so.
If that still doesn't work...
Pull the injector lines off at least one side, (So you can keep the clamps on them, so they are easier to put back on.)(And I mean, all the way off. Not just off the injectors.)... And run a wire through them.
Also, have you had the cap off of the IP yet?
If you are going to replace the IP, you are going to have to remove those lines anyway. Might as well get some practice.
And you really should take the cap off and see what the pump looks like inside. Make sure the governor rod moves freely. Etc.
Don’t even pull the top cover off, if the metering valve was stuck it wouldn’t be putting any fuel out, don’t worry about anything but getting the battery situation taken care of and get it cranking faster till you have it starting reliably.
You can probably do this without replacing the batteries yet.
Get another vehicle up there. Put on the jumper cables. Run the good vehicle at a fast idle for about 15 minutes. Don't do anything else. Just let it charge your truck.
Then with the other vehicle still running at fast idle, try starting your truck.
Get another vehicle up there. Put on the jumper cables. Run the good vehicle at a fast idle for about 15 minutes. Don't do anything else. Just let it charge your truck.
Then with the other vehicle still running at fast idle, try starting your truck.
Reread his post, the truck is being jumped by a psd, batteries still dropping to 6v.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Maybe some bigger jumper cables would help a little? What I see most people around me call jumper cables, I call motorcycle jumper cables, not car (or truck) jumper cables.
Yes me too it's the desired state to be avoiding it. Still I see a guy or two that use it sparingly tho regularly, remote on the cap kick panel. but we're not everyone, hey? Anyway, I learned that one cannot get ingnition with spraying ether in the absence of fuel.
And damn if some of that pooled up ether didn't ignite in the insides when I shorted the GP solenoid terminals. Doh!
Nick_Rego
Registered User
its got some pretty beefy jumpers on there. and that psd was sitting st 1,500 for most of it charged up too 13v pretty fast... the batteries have warenties and can be replaced no wuestiona asked easily just hsve to drive half an hour. ill do that and see if it will help. i cant imgine my pimp would die by sitting over night.. especially with how easily it started up the other day.
I have never been able to jump these engines off another vehicle. The other vehicle will help, but if the batteries are dead I have never been able to glow the plugs long enough and crank it to get it to go.
You can pull start it though. Or if you have a nice long hill you can push it and it will start also. If you pull start it look where you are going, but take a glance out the back. You would not believe the cloud of smoke it makes till it finally starts.
That is what you need, smoke. That is raw fuel mist coming out of the tailpipe. The engine will keep pumping that raw mist out of the tailpipe till it builds enough heat in the cylinders to fire. If you pull start it you will usually get one, then two then several other cylinders slowly firing off. So it runs really rough in the beginning.
You can pull start it though. Or if you have a nice long hill you can push it and it will start also. If you pull start it look where you are going, but take a glance out the back. You would not believe the cloud of smoke it makes till it finally starts.
That is what you need, smoke. That is raw fuel mist coming out of the tailpipe. The engine will keep pumping that raw mist out of the tailpipe till it builds enough heat in the cylinders to fire. If you pull start it you will usually get one, then two then several other cylinders slowly firing off. So it runs really rough in the beginning.
I would be wary of ANY pump and injectors that have been "rebuilt" for $300. We have three guys here who do a great job rebuilding, but they are not cheap. 'typ4' is one guy and "Thewespaul' are some guys who KNOW what they are doing. Contact them and you will see for your self.
Nick_Rego
Registered User
This morning i was curious about the batteries and i checked voltage on both not cranking and the passanger is around 12v but the driver is only 11.3 shouldnt they be the same ? there is nothing besides the other battery connected too it. then i was thinking awhile back i had a similar issue where it started cranking really slow and while trying to jump it i found that the negative battery cable was not only loose and falling apart but where another smaller body ground cable bolted to the part that clamps the open battery cable down (the old style cable) had what looked like solder around it. upin futhrtf inspection found i could pull the cable out of the clamp with ease and the side the body ground was on had melted the threads in the terminal and loosed the clamp... ive since replaced the ground cable but my point is tis trucl was basically stsrting and charging off the passanger side battery. could this have somehow weakedned or damaged the other battery to where its again only pulling from the one battery? either way well find out im going to swap them both out just to be safe and see what happens
The day after I got my RV last winter, a Ford Transit van or something similar was able to jump it, so it is doable. The batteries weren't flat dead, but they were too weak to turn fast enough in the very cold (teens to low 20s) morning.
Nick_Rego
Registered User
it lives!! haha swapped the batteries out cranked for about 5 seconds and dialed too life.. I didnt see it leaking around the caps either so i think shes fixed haha i let it run for a bit.
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