Tank selector unit

[1992 idi 73]

Yesterday I filled up and flipped over to my front tank and took a road trip pulling a 14 foot enclosed trailer . When I got to my destination(hour drive) I noticed that the gauge had not moved! I flipped the tank gauge and my back tank showed a 2/3 tank. I'm guessing that its a stuck solenoid on the fuel selector so is there a good way to unstuck it. If it is broken is it interchangeable with gas units. Educate me please, Thanks.

 

[79jasper]

The gauge switching gets done in the switch. Valve is only fuel selection.
You probably have a bad sender. Some have gotten them to work by running a heavy shot of fuel cleaner, or biodiesel.

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[chillman88]

The gauge switching gets done in the switch. Valve is only fuel selection.

Might on some years, I know on my 91 the gauge switches internally to the selector valve. There are moving contacts inside the switch.

 

[franklin2]

All years switched the sending unit fuel levels at the valve on the frame. It has a little motor in the valve, and it has the fluid section that switches the lines, and it has the switch section that switches the sending units.

You will find the local parts stores sell these valves, if you want to do a search use the term "pollack valve" The valves in the stores are cheaper, but they are generic. Same exact valve made by the same company, but the lines won't plug right in, and the wiring won't plug right in, Ford contracted them to make a custom valve just for them. I think you can still get the valve from Ford, but it's not cheap.

Here recently I had seen links to a valve (made in China?) that was on Amazon or Ebay, and it may be plug and play I am not sure. Do some checking on that.

 

[1992 idi 73]

Alright thanks for all the responses. I will check my switch after school and if that's not it then I'll see if I can free up and test the selector valve.

 

[HawkDavis]

rock auto has them, about $250.00

 

[79jasper]

Actually, I may be thinking of gm.
I do seem to recall some threads about bypassing the selector valve, having to connect the wires at the valve itself to get the gauge to work.

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[1992 idi 73]

My issue is that the gauge works fine, the selector valve is stuck on the back tank even though the switch is on the front tank.

 

[franklin2]

Some people fight it and replace the valve every so often. They do have a habit of going bad. Some people get rid of it and just run one large tank in the back.

 

[chillman88]

My issue is that the gauge works fine, the selector valve is stuck on the back tank even though the switch is on the front tank.

Ah ok. It can be disassembled and cleaned if that is the issue. You're better off replacing it though.

The four rivets will need to be drilled out and replaced with screws on assembly.

There's a write-up on here somewhere but I can't find it.

 

[Selahdoor]

Ah ok. It can be disassembled and cleaned if that is the issue. You're better off replacing it though.

The four rivets will need to be drilled out and replaced with screws on assembly.

There's a write-up on here somewhere but I can't find it.

Use this, on Google, to search:

site:www.oilburners.net

Put a space after it, and then whatever you want to search.

It's better than most forum search engines.

 

[aggiediesel01]

I asked about the new ebay valves on here a while back. The few that had tried them said they were ok so far. I put one in our '93 and it's still switching fine 8 months later. It's a direct plug and play option now, no rewiring or cutting or adapting lines, all for ~$50. I bought a couple as spares just in case.

https://www.oilburners.net/threads/new-fuel-tank-selector-valve.84958/

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...t fuel selector valve&_sacat=0#item3fa9a7a08d

 

[Clb]

Chevron techron fuel additive to clean the rheostat and old bulls fsv 101 in the tech section!

 

[1992 idi 73]

Update: I bought that same selector in the link( just off of amazon ) and it works great! At the same time I pulled my front tank(makes it easier to get to the valve) to replace my shower head that was floating around in the bottom of the tank. I think that some of the garbage of the front tank jammed the selector while it was on my back tank and when I tried to flip tanks it jammed. I might get around to taking the old unit apart after school tomorrow, if so I'll post about what I found.

 

[Cubey]

The gauge switching gets done in the switch. Valve is only fuel

Not true! The valve does the sender selecting and connects to the gauge if it's either of these. That's why there's 5 wires. 2 for power, 2 for the sending units (1 per) and 1 for going to the gauge. I just double checked the 92+ schematic in my 80-96 Haynes Bronco/F-Series manual to be sure it wasn't changed after 91, and it wasn't.

Update: I bought that same selector in the link( just off of amazon ) and it works great! At the same time I pulled my front tank(makes it easier to get to the valve) to replace my shower head that was floating around in the bottom of the tank. I think that some of the garbage of the front tank jammed the selector while it was on my back tank and when I tried to flip tanks it jammed. I might get around to taking the old unit apart after school tomorrow, if so I'll post about what I found.

The Pollak valve install guides tell you to put fuel filters between the tanks and valve. I wonder if that's why there's a high failure rate of these, people not doing so.. maybe the directions for most don't mention that.
http://products.pollakaftermarket.com/Asset/42-159 IS_41-revdd.pdf