7.3 return line caps

Jake60

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Take the old one, lay it out with your new parts, cut some 4" lengths, align the parts the same as the old one, plug them together then back on the engine.

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ISPKI

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I have always done mine in sides, did the driver side today during my lunch break. Other items I noticed in Wes' kit over the cheapo kit is that the inside of the caps have a smoother surface finish, the hole for the nipples are larger and cleaner cut on the inside. Also - 3rd injector cap actually locked down instead of just slipping on like the old caps
 

Selahdoor

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Take the old one, lay it out with your new parts, cut some 4" lengths, align the parts the same as the old one, plug them together then back on the engine.

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Yup.

I used the caps from a kit. (Short nipples. Argh!) My own line. And my own clamps.

Built it on the tailgate, with the old one as a guide.

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franklin2

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Yup.

I used the caps from a kit. (Short nipples. Argh!) My own line. And my own clamps.

Built it on the tailgate, with the old one as a guide.

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A mechanic in the know told me once that those cheapie aggravating spring clamps that are used on the lines are better than the clamps with the screws. Same with radiator hose clamps, those large aggravating clamps that you need to take pliers and squeeze to get them off that the factory originally used, are better than any worm type clamp that you tighten with a screwdriver.

I think we have all put new hoses on something only to have to come back a couple weeks later and re-tighten worm clamps. The spring type clamps keep a constant pressure on the hose, even when it shrinks from age, so no more nuisance leaks.
 

79jasper

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Anything I've ever had apart with spring clamps, needed up leaking. Replaced with worm drive and they are fine.
Literally just had this happen on a 12 valve cummins.

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Selahdoor

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A mechanic in the know told me once that those cheapie aggravating spring clamps that are used on the lines are better than the clamps with the screws. Same with radiator hose clamps, those large aggravating clamps that you need to take pliers and squeeze to get them off that the factory originally used, are better than any worm type clamp that you tighten with a screwdriver.

I think we have all put new hoses on something only to have to come back a couple weeks later and re-tighten worm clamps. The spring type clamps keep a constant pressure on the hose, even when it shrinks from age, so no more nuisance leaks.
What I used isn't worm type. They are made for injection use. And are MUCH better than those "cheapie aggravating spring clamps." :D
 

79jasper

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What I used isn't worm type. They are made for injection use. And are MUCH better than those "cheapie aggravating spring clamps." :D
I knew what you meant.
There are some hybrid ones out now. Look like a worm drive, but still have the inner band.

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Jake60

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A mechanic in the know told me once that those cheapie aggravating spring clamps that are used on the lines are better than the clamps with the screws. Same with radiator hose clamps, those large aggravating clamps that you need to take pliers and squeeze to get them off that the factory originally used, are better than any worm type clamp that you tighten with a screwdriver.

I think we have all put new hoses on something only to have to come back a couple weeks later and re-tighten worm clamps. The spring type clamps keep a constant pressure on the hose, even when it shrinks from age, so no more nuisance leaks.

Never takes long before something I read on this forum becomes reality on one of my trucks. Woke up to a puddle of nice new ELC this AM thanks to one of those screw clamps. I put a second one there for now but I'll replace it with the proper clamp, PIA as they are to manipulate.

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IDIBRONCO

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I've reused the constant tension clamps and had coolant leaks on new radiator hoses after it got cold overnight. After that, I've always thrown them away and used worm clamps with no issues.
 

ISPKI

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Regular worm drive clamps are fairly junky. Constant tension spring clamps tend to not apply enough spring force unless your hose and mating surfaces are perfect. There are constant tension bolt clamps that combine the two designs. Those are hands down the best clamps you can buy. Bolt clamps should be able to compress the flexible hose sufficiently and allow the rubber hose to make up for imperfections in the sealing surface.
 

ISPKI

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So I have my return system all done. The caps feel much tighter than the old set. I greased these with Wolf bearing grease this time so hoping for a better and longer lasting seal.

Was trying to get the truck fired up and ended up running my batteries down pretty low. Whats the best process for starting the truck after doing this work?

I tried cracking a couple injector caps and cranking, was getting some fuel leaking out so I went back and tightened them up. I tried cranking with the shrader valve on the fuel filter pressed to try and purge some air. Still could not get it to fire up. Local part store juiced up my batteries over night, going to pick them up tonight to try again.
 

Selahdoor

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Regular worm drive clamps are fairly junky. Constant tension spring clamps tend to not apply enough spring force unless your hose and mating surfaces are perfect. There are constant tension bolt clamps that combine the two designs. Those are hands down the best clamps you can buy. Bolt clamps should be able to compress the flexible hose sufficiently and allow the rubber hose to make up for imperfections in the sealing surface.
That's what I am talking about. That's what I use.

Looks like the spring clamps, in that it is a solid band all the way around. With more of the band, that slides underneath itself. And a bolt that pulls it together.

Works better than any other clamp I know of. And it's made for fuel injection.

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I've even made homemade clamps like this. They still work great. And the idea scales up easily to even such things as wood stove pipe clamps.
 

chillman88

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Are you cranking with the pedal floored? Seemed to help me.

Best trick is usually patience, I've had them give me a hard time before.
 

Thewespaul

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So I have my return system all done. The caps feel much tighter than the old set. I greased these with Wolf bearing grease this time so hoping for a better and longer lasting seal.

Was trying to get the truck fired up and ended up running my batteries down pretty low. Whats the best process for starting the truck after doing this work?

I tried cracking a couple injector caps and cranking, was getting some fuel leaking out so I went back and tightened them up. I tried cranking with the shrader valve on the fuel filter pressed to try and purge some air. Still could not get it to fire up. Local part store juiced up my batteries over night, going to pick them up tonight to try again.

fastest way to prime it is to remove glow plugs and crank it over until you have fuel at all injectors. No compression means a lot less work for the starter, so 500+ rpms and less amperage use.
 
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