Brake parts no-no's

[Selahdoor]

First off, mods, if this is not the right place for this, please let me know. Better yet, please feel free to move it. I'll TRY to remember about it in the future.


I think our diesels are heavier than the gassers, no?

Well, I took my truck for it's first test run yesterday. Figured out pretty quick it needs a full brake rebuild.

Going to do calipers, hoses, pads, shoes, hardware, etc. Probably even the MC and vac assist.

When I am finished I want to be able to rely on the brakes. (Naturally.)


Since we are heavier, I want good parts. I am going to take a bit different approach though, and ask you guys what parts, (brands, or particular parts, etc.) that you would heave a hearty "No WAY", to ever putting on your truck?

I need to be able to pick according to budget, and other considerations. So I need to have a broad selection to choose from.


But I need to know what parts I should not ever even consider.


Thanks guys!

 

[steve phillips]

hard to be rock auto prices on your choice of wagner, a c delco or raybestos parts. if you haven t already consider replacing all metal lines with cu nickel and bypassing rabs valve. best of luck steve

 

[Selahdoor]

Bypass RABS???

 

[steve phillips]

anti lock valve on frame just about under your feet , while your into brakes, I usually make sure rear axle vent is clean and has vent extending up above frame. check rear wheel bearings, lots of info here lately on this, and replace flexible hose down to t fitting and metal lines out to each side

 

[jrollf]

Bypass RABS???

The RABS valve can be finicky and if you're not patient a real pain to bleed. Many forget they need to bleed the RABS after changing brake fluid and have issues with their brakes. Many bypass it to get rid of the maintenance headaches.

1993 F350 Crew Cab Dually
XLT
7.3 Factory IDIT w/Banks Sidewinder
5spd Manual

 

[Selahdoor]

Thank you.

I spent 3500 dollars having two different shops work on the old truck's brakes. They never really fixed it.

I ended up fixing it myself with a 7 dollar fitting, right where you say, bypassing something that I never did figure out. I suppose I must have bypassed the RABS.

This time, I am going to get all the parts and do the work myself.

 

[steve phillips]

what I do is build up order with all parts in need from rock auto and napa adding in shipping from rock and see what savings is. when you buy from rock, they send you emails with closeout parts. those are real savings. calipers are kind of a toss up because of shipping prices. they have a feature where you can get equivalent parts shipped from same warehouse to save on shipping. amazon has cu nickel line cheaper than anywhere else I have found. I replace all metal lines as a matter of course on any used truck I buy. rubber too. use scot seals on rear axle for no leaks

 

[chillman88]

Well, I took my truck for it's first test run yesterday. Figured out pretty quick it needs a full brake rebuild.

First off Congrats!

Secondly, now would be the time to look into a hydroboost conversion if you're so inclined. It's certainly not necessary, but if you're replacing everything anyway it's a worthwhile upgrade.

https://www.oilburners.net/articles/Hydroboost Brake Conversion on an F350.htm

 

[Selahdoor]

I probably won't go that far.

At this point, not even convinced I am going to replace the MC and dashpot.

I want working, reliable brakes. Anything other than that will have to be done later.

I also have plenty of work ahead of me on the trans, and all the sensors it relies on, and other things about the truck.

Lots of work, not enough time. Need to find a balance in everything. Pick away at the real improvements later.

 

[Selahdoor]

Speaking of RABS... Does anyone remember the type and size of fitting it takes to bypass that? Took me days, to find it before. And I have no idea what size and type it was. Never wrote it down.

 

[steve phillips]

ford got sneaky on that. 2 different size fittings lines size is the same, thread size of fittings different, cant use simple union, will require new fitting and double flare or at your choice compression coupling by cutting off fittings. compression won t pass a safety insp. but they have been used for years. understand I am not advising their use only pointing out options. RABS valves were problematic from the start, I bought an 88 f 250 diesel brand new would lock brakes up instantly un loaded new. never could fix even after replacement. co I worked for had , at out garage 15 f 350 bucket trucks, I drove 1 worn it out at 300,000 miles. brakes would fade out trucks were overloaded, weight was 12,500. eventual cure was swapping to 450 master cylinder, it was discovered too much brake pressure was spreading calipers. I think this is 1 reason hydroboost is such a good swap. there was a bulletin about this years ago. fade was only issure in 350s never on 450s. temp. cure was un plug RABS valve.

 

[franklin2]

Speaking of RABS... Does anyone remember the type and size of fitting it takes to bypass that? Took me days, to find it before. And I have no idea what size and type it was. Never wrote it down.

On my 1989 f250, Ford used a standard 3/16 line with 3/8-24 threaded fittings on each side. Can't believe they did that. So a standard 3/8-24 threaded brake line coupler for 3/16 line bridges the gap nicely. I had to replace some of my lines also, so I am not sure if you are using factory lines if you have enough to bring them together for the coupler.

 

[franklin2]

Here's one on Amazon. The local stores have them also. Don't let them sell you a regular pipe coupler.

https://www.amazon.com/Allstar-Performance-ALL50130-Inverted-Flare/dp/B003C01DDS

 

[Macrobb]

Just want to point out that a flare tool is cheap($10 or so at Autozone?) and it took me under 5 minutes to put a new end on one brake line which had an odd-sized nut on it. (This was during my add-a-line-locker project.

Also, I want to say that hydroboost is a completely different feeling from even 'correct' vacuum boost. It's kind of "vacuum-boost" like when the engine is not running(internal pressure reservoir), but when it's running, it's just this massive assist that doesn't get harder the further you push. You basically just have 'control' over the brakes all the way to lockup without having to really "push" on the pedal.

 

[saburai]

First off Congrats!

Secondly, now would be the time to look into a hydroboost conversion if you're so inclined. It's certainly not necessary, but if you're replacing everything anyway it's a worthwhile upgrade.

https://www.oilburners.net/articles/Hydroboost Brake Conversion on an F350.htm

Hydroboost is on my list, I should have taken Tank for a spin while I was there.
If you do buy NAPA calipers they are nicely done remanufactured units. They even put a nice thick coat of some sort of chemically resistant paint on them. Make sure that you take it off of the sliding surface where the calipers float on the brackets. Chris and I were exhausted and scratching our heads around midnight last weekend trying to figure out what was causing my brakes to drag. Once we cleaned the paint off and lightly polished the sliding surfaces, they worked great!