Wholly crap she ran away on me

Randy Bush

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In you post you said the regulator passed, therefore it is internal. That 1540 is a little high as far as I am concerned.

What year is the truck?
 

Thewespaul

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This is your regulator, it sits right under the starter solenoid on the passenger fender well
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Scrench

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This is your regulator, it sits right under the starter solenoid on the passenger fender well
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Nope it doesn't have one. Here is a picture of the alternator
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Scrench

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OK I thought so too. Do you know how it should wire up. I bought a new one today. Man thanks for your help
 

Thewespaul

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Here’s the wire colors for the reg and alt
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IDIBRONCO

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OK I went to the zone to get a new alternator and the one that I took off is a 100 amp. I bought a 65 amp. Could the faCT that the one I took off being a 100 amp be causing all my problems
Nope. That's not the problem.
No sir the guy at the zone told me that 100 amp would cause it to over charge so I just bought a new one
Either this guy is clueless or he lied to you so that you would do just this.
OK I took it to the big o and they checked it. 13.50 low 14.69 actual and 1540 high
Diod trio passed
Regulator passed
Rectifier passed
Another clueless or liar here.
Well just read a sticker on the new alternator says that it has an external regulator
Here's the proof from my last response. If it has an external regulator, then they couldn't have possibly tested it. Since they couldn't have tested it, there's NO WAY that it could have passed.
The thing about amps vs. overcharging is that the regulator is what controls the output of the alternator. You could have a 20,000 amp alternator and as long as the regulator's in good shape, then it will not overcharge your alternator.
 

Scrench

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Nope. That's not the problem.

Either this guy is clueless or he lied to you so that you would do just this.

Another clueless or liar here.

Here's the proof from my last response. If it has an external regulator, then they couldn't have possibly tested it. Since they couldn't have tested it, there's NO WAY that it could have passed.
The thing about amps vs. overcharging is that the regulator is what controls the output of the alternator. You could have a 20,000 amp alternator and as long as the regulator's in good shape, then it will not overcharge your alternator.
They couldnt even tell me if it was internally regulated
 

Scrench

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I'm thinking about throwing a one wire chevy on it. . I have no idea how to wire the voltage regular
 

Cubey

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Their testers do NOT work right with external regulators. On a 78 Dodge B300 van with the 5.9L 360 engine, the oreilly tester blamed the regulator when it was the alternator. Same exact thing happened with my 87 F250 6.9 IDI when the alternator died, their tester blamed the regulator. I pulled the alternator after replacing the regulator and had them test it out of the vehicle and it came up bad. Wasted money on a regulator I didn't need on the F250. I got the manager to take back the regulator for the Dodge, which they normally don't do on electrical parts. He came out and saw that it was still not working. On the F250, I just didn't bother. I kept the old regulator as a spare since it was the original.
 

Cubey

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Nope it doesn't have one. Here is a picture of the alternator
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That uses an external regulator. Trust me. I replaced both the external regulator and the alternator on my F250 when it ended up only needing the alternator. I have two IDIs (see sig) and both have that kind of alternator, being both 6.9Ls of the same era.
 

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