Proposed setup and stock E4OD

[OldIron82]

Ok everyone as the title states I'm wondering about the general consensus of the lifespan of a stock E4OD behind my 6.9 I'm building and a combined weight of 18'400lbs. Never owned/operated a E4OD and I know nothing about them. Here's what's up...

6.9: head studs, stage 1 R&D cam and injectors, ATS 093 with Wicked Wheel, and going to be a maxed stock pump. Future plans would be adding intercooler, bigger injection pump, and bigger turbo.

Weight: Truck, 8400lbs with a 1000lb skid loader attachment in the body pulling a 3000lb unladen trailer with a 5000lb skid loader and another 1000lb attachment.

The trans... Stock E4OD with 83,000 miles on it. Township owned and well taken care of.

I have operated my rig with that weight all year long with no issue at all ( aside of being passed on hills by bicyclists ) but it's a NA 7.3 and ZF5 that appears bombproof. Some people I have spoke with said early E4OD's were junk, some said depends on how it was taken care of, some said the convertor is the weak link. Sounds like verbal diarrhea too me. I want to hear from the members here that have experience with them.

If I can upgrade the trans for "cheap" compared too a entirely different trans I will. If I have to spend a lot then I may go as originally planned and stick with the ZF5 but lose the DMF. I should have my new frame this week and I want to begin building immediately so it shouldn't be too long until the engine and trans go in. Depending on what all you good members here say will sway my decision.

Thanks!

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[Thewespaul]

@trackspeeder knows his way around these trans. Imo the weak link is the stamped steel torque converter, if you rebuild the trans to the 95+ spec and updated planetaries it can be pretty stout. Cheap no.

 

[Thewespaul]

Cooling is a big deal with these trans as well. The little stock cooler is good for a hair dryer, not a diesel trans. Get a 6.0 trans cooler and a good temp gauge. Or just keep the zf5. What year is your truck? If it came stock with a 6.9 the you will have a hard time getting an e40d to work since that trans never came in the bullnose trucks. I’ve made standalone harnesses for them before and it’s not bad if you know what you are doing, but definitely not a direct swap into a bullnose without a lot of work.

 

[OldIron82]

The truck is a '90. 7.3 with E4OD. I just want to put my 6.9 I'm front of it.

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[trackspeeder]

90 model year. I would replace the pump to start with. Early units have the E9 pump. This is ok for a stock tranny. 95 and up use a F5 pump. The F5 will handle higher clutch pressures when you do a shift kit.

Toss the stock torque converter. The converter is the weak link. This sucker should not be used for any serious or not so serious power levels. To small of a clutch surface to start with. The stamped cover warps with high heat. Usually you will see the blue ring of death on the cover when removed.

Go with a billet multi plate converter. Use a new hardened input shaft.

Add a shift kit (shift reprogramming kit) TransGo Tugger is very popular and easy to install. Sonnax Sure Cure is very good as well.

Add a better cooler. Heat is the number one killer of the E4OD.

Other upgrades. Steel carrier planet gear sets. Machined center support with the upgraded bearing. More frictions and steels in the clutch packs. Upgraded sprags. Internal mods to the low reverse clutch pack. This part goes beyond the cheap rebuild. But if done right you will kill the engine long before the tranny.

 

[Thewespaul]

Thanks for giving us the lowdown @trackspeeder

 

[Big Daddy John]

The truck is a '90. 7.3 with E4OD. I just want to put my 6.9 I'm front of it.

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Just wandering, why you choose the 6.9 over the 7.3? If you don’t mind me asking?

 

[OldIron82]

Cavitation scared me with 7.3's 6.9 is waaaay more beefy in the cylinder wall thickness department. If I had to do it again I would have just gone 7.3 because of the thicker head bolts/studs. I'm still happy with with decision however. It should outlast the truck. From what I have read and heard if you really wanna go radical with a IDI build you should use a 7.3 anyway. My setup should be a GOOD runner that will be reliable as well. If I'm going to play with huge turbos and injection pumps I would build a 7.3 from the bottom up with better rods, a girdle, possibly decompress and coat pistons. At that point I wouldn't even think of 7/16 head fasteners. 1/2" a must.

Hope that helps???

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[OldIron82]

Awesome! Thank you thank you thank you! That's exactly what I was looking for. If I was to purchase a aftermarket transmission with all the upgrades you just listed, what brand would it be?

90 model year. I would replace the pump to start with. Early units have the E9 pump. This is ok for a stock tranny. 95 and up use a F5 pump. The F5 will handle higher clutch pressures when you do a shift kit.

Toss the stock torque converter. The converter is the weak link. This sucker should not be used for any serious or not so serious power levels. To small of a clutch surface to start with. The stamped cover warps with high heat. Usually you will see the blue ring of death on the cover when removed.

Go with a billet multi plate converter. Use a new hardened input shaft.

Add a shift kit (shift reprogramming kit) TransGo Tugger is very popular and easy to install. Sonnax Sure Cure is very good as well.

Add a better cooler. Heat is the number one killer of the E4OD.

Other upgrades. Steel carrier planet gear sets. Machined center support with the upgraded bearing. More frictions and steels in the clutch packs. Upgraded sprags. Internal mods to the low reverse clutch pack. This part goes beyond the cheap rebuild. But if done right you will kill the engine long before the tranny.

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[Big Daddy John]

Cavitation scared me with 7.3's 6.9 is waaaay more beefy in the cylinder wall thickness department. If I had to do it again I would have just gone 7.3 because of the thicker head bolts/studs. I'm still happy with with decision however. It should outlast the truck. From what I have read and heard if you really wanna go radical with a IDI build you should use a 7.3 anyway. My setup should be a GOOD runner that will be reliable as well. If I'm going to play with huge turbos and injection pumps I would build a 7.3 from the bottom up with better rods, a girdle, possibly decompress and coat pistons. At that point I wouldn't even think of 7/16 head fasteners. 1/2" a must.

Hope that helps???

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Oh yea, that’s good! Really none of my business but I do like to pick peoples brain. I think it makes me smarter.

 

[OldIron82]

If I would have asked more questions up front I wouldn't have had half of my problems. Fact. Ask away!

Oh yea, that’s good! Really none of my business but I do like to pick peoples brain. I think it makes me smarter.

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[trackspeeder]

Awesome! Thank you thank you thank you! That's exactly what I was looking for. If I was to purchase a aftermarket transmission with all the upgrades you just listed, what brand would it be?

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A good local tranny shop could set you up. Try a local guy first. If not you could go Ford reman route. A Ford reman will need the accumulator body tuned up a little. This goes back to a TransGo or Sonnax kit.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

A good local tranny shop could set you up. Try a local guy first.

I would go with my "local" (about 2 1/2 hours away, but worth the drive to me) guy, period. That's just me though. I know his work and have dealt with him several times in the past.

 

[Dirtleg]

I'll add my .02 here. I bought my 93' in 07' with a Ford reman E4OD already in it. When it was installed I have no clue.

The first 2 years I had it I put 40k miles on it, often pulling heavy. I pulled a 14k trailer (21k gross) from Houston to Lynchburg Va. Also pulled the same 24ft gooseneck with lighter loads on it around texas a bunch back in 08'. Pulled track hoes over the hills in virginia and loads of 150+ bales of hay as well.

Before pulling anything I installed the biggest Tru-cool transmission cooler I could find and a transmission temperature gauge. They have served me well.

Once when getting up hay in 08' my ex who was driving while I loaded bales, left it in 4hi and drive. It overheated badly. Temp gauge said 280 and fluid poured out the front seal. I figured it was toast. Once it cooled I topped it off with fluid, no more leak and 10 years later it still doesn't leak and works fine. Except when the solenoid bank plug had moisture in it. Cleaned and dried it and it's been fine since.

I'm normally a manual guy. But I'm pleased with how this has held up to the point where if it did fail I'd rebuild it rather than swap in a 5 speed.