Subways DT360 into my 94 F350

[subway]

since I had the transfer case where I wanted it I ran a ratchet strap from the yoke on the case to the front axle. I set this low to see about the maximum that the drive shaft will drop down while the vehicle is sitting level to fab up the rear transmission cross member.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

modifications to the stock cross member to fit a transmission mount level. I made a u cut, then bent the metal straight were it used to curve downward. after that I boxed it in to give a nice flat are for the mount.

You must be registered for see images attach

rear transmission mount about half way through finishing. the holes were roughed out with a plasma cutter since I do not have a drill bit that size. I rounded and finished them with a file.

You must be registered for see images attach

passenger side done and about 1/2 or so clearance for the drive shaft. depending on suspension droop and actual driveshaft diameter I will most likely have to trim more or I might just put a carrier bearing on the cross member and have a 2 piece shaft. not sure on that one yet.

 

[subway]

For exhaust clearance reasons and to make it easier to mount I decided to combine another Ford cross member mount I had to my factory one.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

I also had to cut out a ribbed section of the newly spliced in cross member because that is where I needed the transmission mount to sit. this side is much tighter since I am working around having some good room for my 4" exhaust without modifying the factory exhaust brackets and work around the transmission brake.

You must be registered for see images attach

drivers side transmission mount, again the rough plasma cut holes not finished.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[subway]

this is how the cross member is currently looking mounted up, notice I also trimmed up the factory spicer e-brake bracket for exhaust clearance.

You must be registered for see images attach

next I went back and did some reinforcing where I notched for the e-brake and boxed in the center part of the cross member. The boxing also helped tie the two halves together where I joined them overlapping both sides.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[subway]

that about brings me up to where I am at, I still need to really reinforce the factory cross member under the engine, then I can pull everything back apart. After I pull the engine back out I can put a few pretty new parts in

You must be registered for see images attach

and burn the mounts that are mostly just tacked on the frame. After that onto a bunch of the little stuff like, wiring, slave cylinder mounting, power steering lines and filter/throttle cable mounts. I wanted to paint and rust seal the frame but I am working completely outside for all of this and will probably have to wait for spring to do all of that. Anyone have an extra pole barn they could deliver I am trying hard to keep momentum but mother nature and the holidays are going to slow me down. I feel pretty good getting some of the major fabrication work out of the way though.

 

[jhenegh]

I like it

 

[BrandonMag]

Nice work, Jared!

I know what it's like to try and keep momentum up on a project like this; it can be easy to come up against some problem and feel overwhelmed. Sometimes it's best to take a couple of weeks off, rethink and regroup.

[soapbox]
I have been reading a thread on ih8mud.com that has caused me to rethink the way I'm approaching my 4BT Bronco swap. This isn't a DT360 swap, but it's invaluable reading if you want to see how one person successfully conquered the issues and problems he had relating to his diesel swap. I haven't been able to finish it completely yet; there's a lot of information here.

The plethora of tactics and techniques used by boots4 in this thread to overcome challenges relating to his swap make this the best diesel swap thread I have read. Believe me, I have read A LOT of diesel swap threads. I would strongly encourage all who are considering a diesel swap in any vehicle to read this: http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/family-haulin.160807/page-1
[/soapbox]

 

[subway]

Thanks for the link, I am in about 25 pages of the 117 shown for that thread. That guy is making his project move! Sure makes me wish I at least had a place under a roof to work after 3 days of rain in the 40's here.

 

[loosboogie]

Another DT360 Swap

Just subscribed. I'm starting my own DT360 project and looking for all the info I can get.
Purchased 1991 DT360 (Entire Carpenter school bus)
Purchased 1995 F Superduty (Tired 7.3 TDI and ZF5)
Thanks and good weather to ya'

Here is my Superduty project truck. I'll start my own thread when I actually get into the swap.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[subway]

Nice, I looks forward to seeing what you put together. While I have found probably close to a dozen runs at installing a DT360 in our trucks no two seem exactly alike.

What are you planning for a transmission, that seems to be one of the stumbling blocks for these engines.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

 

[loosboogie]

Yea, the trans is the thing....
I was glad to see your project didn't require cutting the floor using the SAE bell. I would like to go that route. Others have said that doesn.t work. I refuse to spend that kind of money for a custom adapter. Kind of leaning toward an Allison 1000 with a 2000 bell (Swamp_ratt's build I think). But you are exactly right - major stumbling block.

 

[subway]

Nice, well, I only had about an hour of light to work tonight and I ended up using it to fix my chain hoist. Darn pawl get stuck so it would not Ratchet up. Otherwise working every day leaves me no light to work when I get home. I can do some work with halogen light but not reliable welding and plasma cuts. I am seriously thinking of saying the heck with it and doing a loan to set up a pole barn or something to work in.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

 

[killen1]

sub d sweet build

 

[laserjock]

If you go that route, you can get a lot of building for $5k.

This place did mine.

http://www.diypolebarns.com/

It's cool because you can build it with their estimator and lock in the price. If you are in PA, I totally recommend their preferred builder. I had a building in less than 12 hrs work time. If you want info let me know.

 

[subway]

Thanks laserjock, I will have to see what I can convince the wife of. Either way it will be a job since I will have to tear down my old garage to make room for the new. Who knows I might be out of a job if my commander in chief does not sign a budget and shuts my base down next week.

On a brighter note I had off today so I could make some more progress. I am starting to put together the cross member. I was thinking of just welding metal back in but to pull my engine out without lifting the cab or to do an in frame rebuild the center needs to come out. I started getting some work done on the rear hoop of the cross member. It also looks like it will line up well for my pan hard bar.

You must be registered for see images attach

Adding some ribbing for strength.

You must be registered for see images attach

Unfortunately I did not get to much further with it than that.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

 

[subway]

I figured out enough to be able to pull the engine back out to make it easier to work. This is how I am getting the transmission disconnected.

You must be registered for see images attach

Engine is back out, all of the other mounts cleared fine to pull it out.

You must be registered for see images attach

I did take some time to put the clutch in before I lost my light for the day.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk