I think you totaly missed Towcats point. While I do agree rear mains have nothing to do with performance potential of an engine, Towcat just happend to have both seals around and used it as an example of one of the ways a 6BT is overbuilt for a pickup truck aplication. You can put more power...
The limiting point with these engines IMHO is cubic dollars. Hypermax used to offer a inline pump kit for them and as far as I know hypermax is the only company that put serious r&d into making big power out of the 7.3 and 6.9. After head studs if boost is pushed high enough the vally pan will...
Thats franklin for you when the way they rebuild engines is so top secret they don't even know what they are doing. I think our record is 4 franklins befor we got one that would run. Hopefully they get your hard start figured out it sounds like air intrusion but then parking it in the garage...
I run my timming fairly high and Man the difrence between california and nevada diesel is noticeable. The diesel in nevada is mostly lower cetain.
I find the responses you got a bit odd because last I checked california required a minimum cetain rating of 50. I also find it very odd that...
I got a united reman from napa it works great. Also I would definately check the vacume pump after that many boosters I mean even a broke @$$ clock is right twice a day. When I changed my booster and master cylnder, master leaked into the booster and took it out, The booster worked some time...
To drill the stop hole just make a dimple as deep as the crack. I would go with JB weld if it could hold up on the crank of my integra I beat like a red headed step child it will work just fine there. I don't think it's in a waterjacket and belive other members said it wasn't near one earlyer...
Thats off a early to mid 90s dt466e the exhaust housings on T44Es are a puls setup like a hypermax and as a side note hypermax developed the turbo setup on the early T444Es.
I think that's the same wheel as the early strokes but could be way off.
Honestly if it were mine I would drill stop holes at the end then spacle it with JB weld. I've done some impressive stuf with JB in the past like repair a damaged crank snout a couple days befor diving halway across the country for school and it was still fine 40,000 miles later when the dealer...
presure test the cooling system if it hold presure it was just rain water if not its either cavitation or a head gasket when my engine cavitated the first few times water came out the exhaust it was clear with no hint of coolant as it progressed I could see coolant in it. Did the motor strugle...
That sucks can you tell if its running into any coolant or oil pasages? If not you might get away with drilling stop holes at each end but really the best bet would be a new block, it would suck to put it all together and have it leak or worse.
The bolts are reuseable if they are not pitted or rusted or streched beyond spec and as said your torque spec was right so unless there was crud in the bottom of the bolt hole and the bolt bottomed out it was just bad luck.
You might want to look into the precision of new hampton units http://www.gopnh.com/Ford-Heavy-Duty-Torque-Converters.cfm I've heard lots of good things about them.
Goofy What your decribing sounds exactly like a bad lift pump when the reeds get week they will alow the fule to run back to the tank and it doesn't take much of an airleak to alow this to happen. My truck did the exact same thing a bit after I got back from afghanistan I put a new lift pump in...
1. New FIPLS/MPLS/TPS, trans shifts better and pulls harder.
2. General Grabber red letters, so much smoother than my old BFG ATs look better and way more traction offroad.
3. modifide 3" stroke DP wraped up pipes and cross over and most of a 4" magnaflow exhaust with a turndown where the...
For the past couple years my drivers window doesn't want to roll down some of the time so I just bash the switch and try again untill it works, my CD player wouldn't eject unles I hit eject waited a second and hit the dash fonsey stley then some one stoll it. wiers thing is the old sterio was...
I put new G codes in mine a few years back I poped all of them myself poped within 50psi of each other and at factiry spec great spray pattern also poped the old ones with over 180,000 on them one was garbage, 4 still were at factory speck and great spray pattern and the others were still within...
I could be wrong about the minimum cetain but cetain and octain are compleetly difrent and cetain does relate to how eficeaintly the fuel burn just read your post. I've seen first hand evidence that the difrence between the fuel in Nevada with lower cetain of that in california does not burn...
Thats wierd on the emmissions dynos here in nv we take it to 45mph and on the older sheets it showed HP and mine was like 30-50hp don't remember but definatly alot lower than 90 but they could be useing two compleetly difrent set ups. But the hp should be the hp to keep the dyno turning at that...
My truck is doing the same thing as yours was befor it died but I cant get it to do it regularly enough to figure it out but my money is on the starter. Try hitting the starter with a hammer a few times I bet it will start and if it does you need a starter. If you have a loud click coming from...
I'm not trying to say G codes are better than BBs because I have never run them.
The seat of the pants dyno has way too may variables the biggest being the ears if something sounds faster the seat-o-pants dyno generaly says it is, not trying to say yours necisarily is off some people can...
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