Its in the thread recess. drill a tiny stop hole at the end, dont worry about the deck surface theres nothing there, run it.
How do I fix this major problem I have now, block cracked at cylinder head bolt hole
- Thread starter cheap bronco
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cheap bronco
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1994Diesel you have a pm
cheap bronco
Full Access Member
Thanks in advance for the tips and suggestions, many of you have stated I should drill a tiny hole. My ? is do I drill a thru hole or just make a dimple at the end of the crack, I have decided to run it and patch it up with either JB weld or use use a metal epoxy, still end up with JB weld in the end. Also, Im pretty sure the cylinder head hole is not in a water jacket area, am I right?
To drill the stop hole just make a dimple as deep as the crack. I would go with JB weld if it could hold up on the crank of my integra I beat like a red headed step child it will work just fine there. I don't think it's in a waterjacket and belive other members said it wasn't near one earlyer in this thread.
Another JB weld fun fact I knew a guy who used JB weld to make domed pistons for his drag bikes, Also others who used it to smoth intake passages in heads for high preformance V8s, and its been use by engine builders to change port diamiters and shape to move the powerband on two stokes.
Another JB weld fun fact I knew a guy who used JB weld to make domed pistons for his drag bikes, Also others who used it to smoth intake passages in heads for high preformance V8s, and its been use by engine builders to change port diamiters and shape to move the powerband on two stokes.
If it is in the thread recess then the structural integrity has been compromised around that stud. That stud isn't going to hold it's full share of the load.
Threads are like ramps when a bolt/stud is pulled, << >> IF the crack goes into the thread recess then that stud could pull out by spreading the block right there.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Run it... There is no water or coolant on that side of the block threads. JB Weld will do nothing for this. It wont hold the crack together. Please stop wondering what to do. If your concerns continue then pressure test this like I suggested in an earlier post. Without data showing you this is a leaker you have no reason to make it a leaker in your mind. So you stated that the torque is 125 lbs. It seems to be holding that and thats far more than what the factory spec is. My point is I'm trying to make you feel confident about this. Pressure test it first. Then do whats next on the list of repairs if any are needed. If it holds 15 lbs pressure just run it but don't sell it without telling the next owner whats going on. PS... Someone here has offered you a bare block. Thats a good idea if you every sell this truck. All the parts will fit the other block. Time to run it and be happy but sitting around "wondering what to do" is getting you nowhere. Plenty of great advise had been given freely to you from many members that have plenty of experiance with these engines. No dealership will tell you much more than what its going to cost to repair anything you tow... Drive or push into their bays...
ever had the head off one, the threads dont start till almost an inch down the hole. If it was in the threaded area, I would have said tossit.
Run it, or throw it away. JB weld wont do **** there except seal it from stuff gettin IN the crack.
And if it happens to seep a little coolant some barsleak will fix that forever. And it wont take much.
How long are the threads, In the third pic, the crack is atleast 1 1/2" (I know they are longer than that, but don't know the exact length). So pull the stud, drill a stop hole, then re tap (clean threads up).
the threads dont start till about an inch down the hole. then they are about an inch long/deep. im pretty sure itl hold.
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