Torque

gingrass179

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Hi I'm writing this just for discussion sake. I just started on head gaskets for my weekend project. All in all going smoothly everything is clean and going back together I re used my head bolts cause the soonest I could get studs was next thursday but this is my only vehicle so it couldn't be down. I did four sets on the heads for torque 1st 35, 2nd 70, 3rd 95, 4th 115 well a few bolts from the endi was on my fourth set and this bolt wouldn't click do I leroy going and I knew it was going to snap and it did. My question is are these only shoppers to be torqued once? Or are my numbers to high? Any ways going with studs now and am just going to have to ride tge bus:mad:
 

George D.

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The bolts are reuseable if they are not pitted or rusted or streched beyond spec and as said your torque spec was right so unless there was crud in the bottom of the bolt hole and the bolt bottomed out it was just bad luck.
 

flareside_thun

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Probably should have chased the threads. These bolts aren't meant to be reused but hundreds, if not thousands, of people have not had an issue doing so. Like stated, your torque numbers were right on par.....
 

icanfixall

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When was the last time to calibrated your torque wrench. Your numbers were fine but reusing the bolts can be a problem.. As you have found out. That broken bolt could have been damaged by a previous owner too. It just broke because you were the last person touching it so you feel its something you did wrong.... Best of luck getting that broken bolt out of the head. Your going to find it broke right at the last thread and thats about 1 inch down in the head because the bolt holes in the bolck are counter bored.. Go easy and it may turn out easy. When two of my studs broke in the heads I used a dremil grinder and a small bit to grind a slot in the broken stud so I could use a screwdriver to turn it out. As I was grinding it the broken stud started unthreading by its self. Then a magnet down into the hole picked up the small broken piece....:sly
 

gunz

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I dont resue head bolts unless they are very recently replaced. Too much work adn money to throw away becasue used bolts.
 

hesutton

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Gotta chase the threads with a bottoming tap and lube the thread and bolt to head contact surface to reduce friction when torquing them down. Getting the broken bolt out of the block my be a PITA. I hope it comes out without much fuss.

If you are getting sutds, buy some ARP thread assembly lube. Great stuff when torquing down fastners as important and the head bolts/studs.

Heath
 

gingrass179

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ok guys sorry about the late response...ob was down on my end for a few days but yes a couple were a little rusty. yes i ran a tap through all of the holes. and i only used 10w 30 for lube so i know its not a 100% proper but ive done it this way many times and also there were 2 other bolts in that same head that acted a little funny and i didnt get them to click but i knew they were there. and as for the torque wrench unfortunately i had to go with a autozone loaner??? i know scary but its what i had studs ordered tonight so will be together by the weekend thanks for the info fellas
 

hesutton

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I'd be afraid the AZ loaner torque wrench is out of calibration. No telling what kind of "use" they get. If nothing else, a Craftsman bar type torque wrench would be a good place to start. But sure to get some of the special ARP fastner lube for the studs, washers, nuts.

Heath
 

RLDSL

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a few things. 10w-30 is too thin, it's a 10 wt oil and you need a 30 wt non synthetic for proper thread lubrication to get a proper torque reading. As mentioned, a loaner torque wrench is a crap shoot. believe it or not, the harbor freight clickers are actually pretty darn accurate out of the box or as mentioned, the crapsman beam jobs so long as you center them are fairly accurate.
I know the bolts are *supposed8 to be reusable, but i too had 2 bolts try to pull through on me first time I remounted a set on my engine, thankfully, I know the feel of a bolt that is stretching too far and stopped before they broke and backed them out and bought aset of new bolts and started over and i've never tried to re use a set since. It's just not worth the gamble when you consider how little they cost
 

hesutton

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What is so special about the lube might I ask

ARP specifically designed that "ultra-torque" lubricant just for torquing fastners. It's been tested (not just by ARP) and really is the only lubricant that can give consistant and repeatable accurate torque on fastners. You should get a little packet with your studs, but get an extra tube. Good stuff for sure and worth the few bucks it'll cost ya.;Sweet I use it on the main caps, rod caps, heads, and intake manifold.

Heath
 

icanfixall

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That arp molly lube is the cats a$$ for lubrisity. Use it anyplace you have a washer to mount or bolt or stud contact. What your attempting to do is reduce the friction where contact is made. A lite coat is all thats required. Don't fill the threads with it.. Thats wasteing it...
 
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