Wire harness hell

psy9zach

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Only the glow plug wiring is replaced, the separate circuits will remain separate. If the plug for the rest of your engine is melted you need to replace or bypass that, but things don’t short out for no reason so I would follow each melted wire and see what caused the wiring to melt.
The other wires are working fine just don't think the yellow ones where well enough connected it caused the plastic of the plug to melt and now its stuck together so I guess any suggestions to that, and if that would effect the Wes conversion is it just to replace those 2 yellow wires?
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chillman88

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If everything else is working ok just fix the power to the controller for now. Once you get that fixed you can see what other problems you may have. Those yellow wires melting that plug is a very common problem. It was partly melted in my 91 when I got it and the 89 I have it was already spliced together with crimp on butt connectors.

You have two suggestions here:

If all that is bad is those two yellow wires, you can run a fused power feed directly from the battery to the GP relay. I ran some 4ga and a 200amp fuse.

Cut the two yellow wires on each side near the factory plugs. Get 4 yellow colored ring connectors and crimp them on the 4 ends you have after you strip the insulation back a little bit. Then take two small bolts and nuts, and bolt one yellow wire coming from the fender to one yellow wire going to the engine, and then do the same thing again with the two yellow wires left. Then try it out.

Yellow ring connector.

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psy9zach

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Would like to go with wes's idea a little worried I'd screw it up electrical is not my strong suit. And I appreciate all the suggestions anyone know how to get a hold of a new plugs for the other 6 or harness

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Garbage_Mechan

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I had this exact same scenario a few years ago on the 91. The yellow wires are fuseable link wires. There is a multi pin plug where the chassis loom and the engine loom meet. The yellow wires on the chassis side end at the plug. In my case the root cause was corrosion and high resistance in a circuit wth high amp draw. The plastic plug body melted. I clipped the glow plug power supply wires on each side of the melted connector. Cleaned it all up and connected the wires direct bypassing the plug. All of the other circuits in the multi pin connector were fine. This was several years ago. Replacing the glow plug harness will not fix both sides of this connector.
 

franklin2

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Just splice the yellow wires together and you should be back in business. I see the two yellow wires in the picture below going to the engine. You should have two other yellow wires hanging there or still in the plug that are going over to the pass side fender on the solenoid. Take the two yellow wires from the engine and directly connect them to the wires going to the pass side fender. It does not matter if you get them mixed up, just make sure one yellow wire from the engine is connected to one yellow wire going to the pass side fender.

You can butt splice them like someone else said they had, but the reason I recommend the ring connectors and bolts, it's very nice to be able to undo these wires if you have to pull the engine or pull the valve cover to get them out of the way.

Like someone already mentioned, this is a very common problem with these trucks. You are the first one there to deal with it on this particular truck, so that might be a blessing in disguise.
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IDIBRONCO

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Would like to go with wes's idea a little worried I'd screw it up electrical is not my strong suit.
Don't worry about this at all. If Wes's kit doesn't come with detailed instructions, I'll bet that he'd be happy to talk you through it. Just ask him.
 

Thewespaul

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The kit is completely labeled and comes with very detailed installation instructions, you can see all the details here: https://www.oilburners.net/threads/glow-plug-solutions-from-classic-diesel-designs.84824/

This kit completely eliminates the yellow wires on either side of your melted plug, the glow plug controller, the controller's wiring, and the glow plug connectors. If the rest of your engine wiring is still working theres no need to replace it. You can just remove the plug and use a new weather pack connector in its place.
 

psy9zach

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How much is the kit and how do I pay? I live in Michigan would the shipping be a lot?

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Thewespaul

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Psy9Zach, if you read the links that have been posted, or read the direct messages I have sent you all this is explained. The kit is $185 shipped, all I need is a shipping address and your email to send you an invoice, you can follow instructions on the invoice to pay with credit card or PayPal, whichever is easier for you. Please do not post your private info here, but send it to me in the private conversation already made so that your personal info is not public.
 

laserjock

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I separated mine when I did it and moved the gp controller to the fender.

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Anderson style connector for the GP power.

I used metripak connectors for the rest but I added some stuff. You might be able to use weatherpack. Here’s the plug diagram. You don’t have to “good at electrical”. The hard parts are figured out for you. Making the connections is really just mechanical.

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