While the truck sits unused.. can I/should I soak the cylinders?

[Fredrickson]

I will not be driving my truck for the next month or so.

Would there be any benefit to squirting something in to the cylinders (whether it be SeaFoam, acetone, trans fluid, Marvel Mystery Oil, etc..) to 'clean/soak' any deposits, clean the rings, etc?

If so, how long is TOO long to let it soak?

When restarting .. other than removing the glow plugs, injectors, disconnecting the GP relay, and IP fuel shut off ..
is there anything else that needs to be done before firing it up?

Or is this entire question a fool's errand, and not necessary?

 

[Olds64]

Don't feed your truck Kroil/PB Blaster. It'll burn it for a snack. I've actually read that some folks use WD-40 instead of ether to aid in starting.

 

[Clb]

If you can get fogging oil from the boat shop, it's made for the job.
Otherwise it's probably a pita and not worth it...

 

[Jesus Freak]

If its just a month or 2, I wouldn't bother..... now, 5yrs...... maybe......

 

[rreegg]

A month shouldn’t make any difference but batteries will probably be the first thing to deteriorate. More so in the winter than summer I think

 

[Nero]

I let mine sit for months at a time, longest was 7, always ran just fine.

 

[Fredrickson]

It's not so much conditioning the cylinders against time or winterizing.. it's more about having the opportunity to do a 'deep clean' on any deposits.

It's often said.. 'Fill the fuel filter with ATF start it, then let it sit overnight.' (good for injectors and IP)
Is there an option above that for when I have more than an overnight?

I was wondering if there were any procedures requires more time.. A 'Rebuild in a Can' type of thing, if you will.
I am not looking for some miracle fix.. just something that will really break loose any carbon when given enough time do do it's thing.

know what I mean?

 

[Nero]

If you're looking to clean internals, spike the cr@p out of the fuel system with your favorite flavor of fuel addatives, and then run 1/2 can of seafoam in the oil. Drive it like ya stole it for about 50-100 miles, then change your oil. Any and all deposits should clear right out.

 

[Jesus Freak]

It's not so much conditioning the cylinders against time or winterizing.. it's more about having the opportunity to do a 'deep clean' on any deposits.

It's often said.. 'Fill the fuel filter with ATF start it, then let it sit overnight.' (good for injectors and IP)
Is there an option above that for when I have more than an overnight?

I was wondering if there were any procedures requires more time.. A 'Rebuild in a Can' type of thing, if you will.
I am not looking for some miracle fix.. just something that will really break loose any carbon when given enough time do do it's thing.

know what I mean?

I was kinda thinking you meant that...... but that being the case, do the ATF in the fuel filter before you leave and when you get back to it do the seafoam thing Nero mentioned and by all means you should be as far ahead of the game as can be.

 

[DirtyWood]

If you want something stronger than SeaFoam I would check out "Kreen" from Kano Labs.

 

[Black dawg]

The problem is, that anything that will actually dissolve or break down any of the stuff on the pistons/rings/lands, also tends to be rough on metal parts.....given time.

I have soaked removed pistons in different stuff over the years, atf does almost nothing, as well as sea foam. There are some harsh injection cleaners that will give results, but I wouldnt be leaving them in there for more than 24hrs.

I have plans of tearing one down, that I suspect has packed up stuck rings. I plan on soaking them in a heated sonic cleaner, with some dilited injector cleaner.

 

[ihc1470]

Are you having any issues that you are hoping to fix by doing this? If not I would leave it alone. If it is not broke don't fix it is the old saying. I have several diesel engines around this place many with thousands of hours on them. Many sits months over the winter without starting. I just do normal maintance.