wheres the best place to get a body lift kit

[mustangmatt89]

Wheres the best place to get like a 2 inch body lift kit for a 93 f250 4x4 diesel. Every where I look they are 3 inch or 4 and only have them for gas trucks

 

[BIG DAVE]

I got mine from LMC.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

Wheres the best place to get like a 2 inch body lift kit for a 93 f250 4x4 diesel. Every where I look they are 3 inch or 4 and only have them for gas trucks

Gas or diesel, the body mounts are the same.

There are numerous sources for body-lifts; regardless of point of purchase, about all of them are made by one company.

You can make a better kit than you can buy.

With a Ford firewall and a V-8 International engine, TWO-INCHEs is the most you can go until the engine comes hard against the fire-wall, causing a terrible resonating roar; I know, it makes no sense, but it is a fact nonetheless.

This situation is avoided with an inline engine, such as the 6BT Cummins.

When I had the IDI-6.9, I first installed a three-inch kit.

No way could I reshape the fire-wall to clear the engine; so, I removed the risers and sawed them down to two-inch, thus this is how you get a two-inch kit; buy a three and saw off an inch.

RED ALERT​

Before ordering/making a body-lift, get yourself either a Borgeson or Flaming River steering-shaft.

The stock Ford shaft is a dangerous piece of junk to begin with; raising the body as little as an inch pulls the shaft out into the DANGER ZONE .

Lifting the body two- or three-inches leaves the shaft barely engaged on a perfectly level floor; the least little twist and the driving is over = you're just along for the crash.


IMPORTANT :

Don't install/cut/mess-with the new steering-shaft, UNTIL the lift is installed; then, you can install the new shaft and cut it to length.

 

[Optikalillushun]

it still baffles me how a 3" lift would cause a problem. wonder what exactly would cause the issue?

i have a few pieces of advice for u before u think about a body lift from experience with these trucks. first, check the radiator support and radiator support brackets on the frame. dont even think about putting a body lift on with either of these in borderline good shape. the frame mount will be beaten out and the rad support will buckle, had this happen on a few trucks we body lifted, even though we advised against it. the person wanted it done and ended up causing more problems, plus the body will be thrown off.

usually the cab frame mounts dont rot out as quickly as the rad frame mounts but check them as well. also, if it were me i would opt for new body bushings as if the rubber ones are mushrooming, failure will happen really quick with a body lift.

lastly, u will have to notch the front frame ahead of the crumble zone. follow the kits instructions (i think its a 2" high by 3" deep notch). otherwise u will be fumbling with the front bumper.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

I will add this :

Every aspect of the truck is better/easier after at least a two-inch body-lift.

Nearly everything you should decide to work on becomes much easier to access, especially anything in the fire-wall vicinity, such as the turbo.



I have had the ( at first three-inch) two-inch lift on my truck for several years now.


For quite some time, my plan has been to completely re-work the entire body-mount system.

I intend to completely remove all the cab-mount perches from the frame and extend them at least four-inches, getting the cab up into F-650/F-750 territory, instead of the low-slung pick-up stance.

With the cab-mounts themselves raised, I can then remove the lift-blocks/risers and install new cab-mount bushings.

My new system will avoid all the possible issues of a kit-style body-lift.

 

[Agnem]

Most 4X4 and off road shops stock the 2" kits. I never found them difficult to get. I googled it and got lots of hits. Try this place...

http://www.suspensionconnection.com/cgi-bin/suscon/body_lifts.html?mv_pc=msn_bodylifts

 

[TWeatherford]

Got mine on ebay... a 3" by the way. Make sure you get one that includes a steering extension or as MidnightRider said, a new steering shaft. My kit included a machined aluminum extension that solidly extended the stock shaft. A few minutes with a crowbar and the body was no longer making contact with the drivers side head, and hasn't ever been a problem.

 

[mustangmatt89]

Well the real reason I am wanting to do a body lift is because my turbo is rbbing the top of my firewall causing an annoying vibration sometimes, if there is anything else that can be done to stop this I am all ears.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

A few minutes with a crowbar and the body was no longer making contact with the drivers side head, and hasn't ever been a problem.

I used the crow-bar, the porta-power, and everything else around here and could not get the offending area to budge.

I could get it to move and as soon as pressure was released it just sprung back.

It could be some difference in that area between year-models.


I guess if one knew where to hit, and the engine was out of the way, one could whack it a few times with a big sledge-hammer and re-arrange things.

 

[TWeatherford]

I'm really not a fan of just smashing parts of my truck to make modifications and repairs easier... however in this case I didn't mind. Must be that there is a difference between different years of trucks. I just needed about 1/2" of clearance extra which was real easy to get. Of course, you can always just run a 2" but I didn't want to mess with finding shorter bolts for everything and have to cut my 3" blocks down.

One other thing is that with a zf-5 trans, as well as the 4x4 shifter, its a real pain to make the boot around the shifters fit after a 3" lift. I think it would be pretty terrible with a 2" as well.