Wheel balancer and now driveshafts

hce

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Thought I would share pics of my contraption I use to balance wheels on the vehicle.
Similar to the old on car strobe balancers, but a lot less money tied up.
Also just tried it on my front driveshaft and its the smoothest its been and that is after 3 driveshafts from two places. With hubs in transfer case out it has 0 vibration at 60mph and just a hint at 70. That was my first attempt at driveshaft balance. Next time I may spin the driveshaft at 70-75 mph. Also have one more trick up my sleeve I should implement into the balance process.
The fact it worked so well on driveshafts surprised me.


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Pickup device rod attaches to axle with magnet
For a driveshaft place pickup under pumpkin as close to ujoint as possible.

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General radio Stoboscope, fancy strobelight, uses external input from pickup to flash strobe when triggered. Ebay item. Also cool piece of old electronics.
Note clothespins holding a usb camera that I attach to the laptop so I can watch the strobe flash from the drivers seat allowing one person operation.

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Close of pickup, a metal rod slide up and down on the piezo switch inside.

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Inner workings of pickup, little piezo switch set up that I found online.

It not the easiest or quickest to use, but picks up 1/4 imbalance on wheels. If I could pay someone to get the results I achieve with this contraption I would let them but I am continually let down when I pay for tire balance. I even have access to a coats electronic spin balancer at work but cannot ever get repeatable results from it, I believe it is a centering problem.

Quick instructions.
Jack up wheel and position pickup to axle closest to the tire, I use a hockey puck under jack to allow a little give allowing wheel to move up and down more with each vibration effectively making the pickup more sensitive.
Connect pickup to stroboscope
Strobe flash and trial and error is used to determine the point of imbalance to add weight.
Usually the tire is marked with evenly spaced numbers around the tire to easily identify a point of imbalance, sharpie and hockey tape seems to work quit well. Grease marker is to hard to clean up.
Next the tire is spun with no weights, 120mph seems to work well, 60 on the speedometer since only one tire is jacked up.
The strobelight is positioned to flash on the bottom of tire, 6 oclock position.
Note the closest number caught at the 6 o clock position in the stobe light and its exact position.
The trick is picking the point to add weight it is usually at the 6 o'clock position sometimes ahead sometime behind depend on tire speed
Add weight spin tire again, if the strobe catches the same spot of the tire at 6 o'clock you found the exact spot to add weight.
Keep increasing weight till either the strobe does not flash or opposite side of the tire is caught in strobe. If opposite side is showing too much weight was installed.
I do have a motor and wheel to spin up non powered wheels, but almost all my outfits are 4wd. It seems to work much better to allow the vehicle to spin the tires.

I apologize for pictures not being on an idi equiped vehicle.
I suppose I could add this to my list of services offered under the timing service thread.
 

subway

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That is really cool, I had no idea something like that existed. I might have to see if I can track one down since I have some drive shafts to make up! Thanks for sharing that.

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jhenegh

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Neato. If you were less than halfway across the USA I'd be hitting you up! I just put some COunteract wheel balancing beads in my tires this week. First time doing that so I'm curious how they do. Tires have been unbalanced for the last 16 months
 

hce

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Just wired up the z axis on a $1.99 accelerometer from ebay to my volt meter. Attached a magnet to the accelerometer, then promptly attached it to the front pumpkin and then the closest bolt on the transfercase.
It worked results are interesting the higher the voltage reading the more vibrations.
With the voltmeter set on ac voltage and attached to the front I had a reading of .012v with just the engine idling it neutral, spinning driveshaft up to 70 had .07 volts.
Attached to transfer case, had .7v at idle in neutral and .110 volts at 70.
Looks like I need to work on transfercase side, probably will fine tune the pumpkin side also.
Should be able to have the driveshaft spinning dead true, when I find the time and ambition again, takes a lot of ambition at 0 degrees when the garage doors need to be opened.

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Batteries power the accelerometer, could use a 3 or 5 volt voltage regulator and powered it off the 9v in the voltmeter.

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close up of accelerometer with magnet attached


In theory this could be used alone with the three of four point balance method to balance a rotating object. At the very least this could be used to see if adding weights makes it better or worse. The accelerometer in a smart phone with appropriate could be used but, do not own one and would not want to hang it under a vehicle running while trying to read the screen, long wires are much better.

Really getting tired of typing accelerometer.
 

hce

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wrong post

Neato. If you were less than halfway across the USA I'd be hitting you up! I just put some COunteract wheel balancing beads in my tires this week. First time doing that so I'm curious how they do. Tires have been unbalanced for the last 16 months

Not to mention NE corner of MT is about as remote as you can get in the continuous 48 states.
 
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mblaney

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Neato. If you were less than halfway across the USA I'd be hitting you up! I just put some COunteract wheel balancing beads in my tires this week. First time doing that so I'm curious how they do. Tires have been unbalanced for the last 16 months

I installed Counteract in my wife's Caravan tires and I put high quality Air Soft pellets in my new truck tires... will never use weights again! Smoothest ride ever.
 

hce

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I installed Counteract in my wife's Caravan tires and I put high quality Air Soft pellets in my new truck tires... will never use weights again! Smoothest ride ever.
I have a bag filled with dynabeads and a set of centramatics leaning up against the wall. The beads and centramatic did help at speeds under 65, but neither compares with well balanced wheels.
 

jwalterus

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Not to mention NE corner of MT is about as remote as you can get in the continuous 48 states.

<------ location LOL

Glasgow isn't remote, I used to have a buddy who lived North of Saco along the turkey track :eek:
 

hce

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Played a little bit more with the front driveshaft using the accelerometer and voltmeter, varying weight and position. Could not improve on the transfer case side, but improved the front just a bit. Found out the setup is sensitive to 5 grams of weight and 5 degrees of position. Took it for the test drive up to 75mph could not feel any vibration, had to stop and verify that hubs were locked in.
 
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