What is the 6.9-7.3idi hypermax turbos?

Chuckanut245

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Hey guys I was wondering if hypermax turbos are the same between the 6.9 and 7.3 IDI? Also does hypermax use holset or Borg Warner or any brand turbo and rebrand it as hypermax? Does anyone know the specs on the turbo like wheel sizes and housing sizes?

Thanks guys
 

TahoeTom

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I bought a Hypermax kit. The turbo is a Garrett T04B69. I don't know what that means, but I don't think it is anything special. That was years ago so they may be doing something else now. Kit should work on 6.9 or 7.3 IDI. The only difference is the up pipes for auto or manual trans I think. I like the reuse of the stock air filter and housing. I have their cowl intake setup also.
 

Chuckanut245

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I bought a Hypermax kit. The turbo is a Garrett T04B69. I don't know what that means, but I don't think it is anything special. That was years ago so they may be doing something else now. Kit should work on 6.9 or 7.3 IDI. The only difference is the up pipes for auto or manual trans I think. I like the reuse of the stock air filter and housing. I have their cowl intake setup also.
Do you know what the size of the exhaust housing is?
 

ISPKI

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I bought a Hypermax kit. The turbo is a Garrett T04B69. I don't know what that means, but I don't think it is anything special. That was years ago so they may be doing something else now. Kit should work on 6.9 or 7.3 IDI. The only difference is the up pipes for auto or manual trans I think. I like the reuse of the stock air filter and housing. I have their cowl intake setup also.
Do you have pictures of your cowl intake setup?
 

TahoeTom

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Exhaust size is 3.5". The Hypermax cowl intake is a plastic piece the size of the intake on the stock air filter housing. The Hypermax kit utilizes the original air filter. I don't know if the stock brake booster leaves enough room but it probably does. Hydroboost leaves plenty of room. If I am boosting on a hill I can hear the sound of air being sucked in. I pull the intake hose if driving in a snow storm. Not sure if there is any need to worry about rain or snow getting into the intake. Egts are lower in cold weather for sure with this setup.
 

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03wr250f

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im pretty sure the exhaust downpipe is 2.5'' and the up pipes are 1.75 or 2''
it is a t4 turbo with a massive exhaust housing 1.15 ar iirc.
 

SkylabTech86IDI

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I bought a Hypermax kit. The turbo is a Garrett T04B69. I don't know what that means, but I don't think it is anything special. That was years ago so they may be doing something else now. Kit should work on 6.9 or 7.3 IDI. The only difference is the up pipes for auto or manual trans I think. I like the reuse of the stock air filter and housing. I have their cowl intake setup also.
I know this thread is from last year, Ron from Hypermax says they still use T04Z’s.

Compressor wheel sizing is 2.25” and turbine wheel is 2.5”
Here is some literature & reference that he sent to my email. He sent me 15 pager install instructions, brochure, etc so feel free to request that and I’ll set up a google drive to share the info for anyone else looking into this in the future.

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As you can see they’re non-waste gated which could impact a decision.
 

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MIDNIGHT RIDER

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When the turbo on my 1985 vintage Hypermax kit started puking oil through the exhaust in about 1988, the original turbo was a Borg Warner.

I took it to the local diesel injector shop and they swapped it out for one of their rebuilds - also a Borg Warner.

They seem tiny in comparison to what I am now familiar with.

I didn't install the original Hypermax kit; whoever did had to cut a relief hole in the firewall/cowl for clearance.

Tolerances are so close in a V-8 diesel/Ford setup that I strongly recommend a 2-inch body lift before beginning.

It is really weird; but, a 3-inch lift will cause the bellhousing to vibrate against the floor-board and drive you crazy.
 

KansasIDI

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When the turbo on my 1985 vintage Hypermax kit started puking oil through the exhaust in about 1988, the original turbo was a Borg Warner.

I took it to the local diesel injector shop and they swapped it out for one of their rebuilds - also a Borg Warner.

They seem tiny in comparison to what I am now familiar with.

I didn't install the original Hypermax kit; whoever did had to cut a relief hole in the firewall/cowl for clearance.

Tolerances are so close in a V-8 diesel/Ford setup that I strongly recommend a 2-inch body lift before beginning.

It is really weird; but, a 3-inch lift will cause the bellhousing to vibrate against the floor-board and drive you crazy.
I’m wanting to do a body lift, but I’m only finding kits for a 3 inch lift. Do you know where to get one for a 2 inch lift for a 1980-1986 truck?
 

KansasIDI

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My understanding with the body lift is that I will have to modify my fan shroud
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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My understanding with the body lift is that I will have to modify my fan shroud

Yes, just do away with the bottom half of the shroud; you will never miss it.

Or....., lower the radiator.

I’m wanting to do a body lift, but I’m only finding kits for a 3 inch lift. Do you know where to get one for a 2 inch lift for a 1980-1986 truck?

I can only speak for a manual transmission; there are some brackets necessary for trucks with automatics --- I think.

When I sourced mine, both 2- and 3-inch kits were available.


If 3-inch is all you can find; the risers are just plastic and easily sawed down to whatever length you want.

You can make as good or better risers yourself.

All a body lift consists of is the riser blocks and longer bolts plus maybe some necessary brackets for the automatic transmission.

The only reason I went with a kit instead of creating my own was because they include the proper length bolts; if I had created my own kit, I would had to remove the original bolts and leave the truck sitting while I measured and sourced bolts of the appropriate length; meaning, I couldn't have done it in one afternoon while everything in this little mudhole was closed.

There may be something necessary to be done if you have a pickup bed to make the tank filler hoses longer or whatever; my truck has a steel flat so I didn't have to deal with that.

Another necessary when raising the body and something you should have already done anyway is to replace the shoddy O.E.M. steering shaft with a Borgeson; .....or, lengthen the original = cut it and sleeve it with a length of tubing, welding the harder to access bottom side while the shaft is out of the truck; put the cut/sleeved shaft back in place, do the body-lift, and then weld the top of the sleeve where it landed --- MAKING SURE that you marked where the telescoping section rests before the lift (and before you cut) and you line up your marks before welding the remaining end of your sleeve.

Best to just tack it while mounted; then, take it back out and weld properly.

With two inches, the steering shaft begins to look scary; with three inches, it is within a hair of disengaging and coming in two; let the left front wheel drop in a hole while most of the weight is on the right rear and the shaft will come apart.

Much better and much easier to just get a Borgeson; slather every moving/sliding part of the Borgeson with that silver sh_t.

I could not imagine my truck without the body-lift; everything else I have done to it since has been much easier; you can't imagine how much difference two inches makes in clearing things.
 

KansasIDI

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Yes, just do away with the bottom half of the shroud; you will never miss it.

Or....., lower the radiator.



I can only speak for a manual transmission; there are some brackets necessary for trucks with automatics --- I think.

When I sourced mine, both 2- and 3-inch kits were available.


If 3-inch is all you can find; the risers are just plastic and easily sawed down to whatever length you want.

You can make as good or better risers yourself.

All a body lift consists of is the riser blocks and longer bolts plus maybe some necessary brackets for the automatic transmission.

The only reason I went with a kit instead of creating my own was because they include the proper length bolts; if I had created my own kit, I would had to remove the original bolts and leave the truck sitting while I measured and sourced bolts of the appropriate length; meaning, I couldn't have done it in one afternoon while everything in this little mudhole was closed.

There may be something necessary to be done if you have a pickup bed to make the tank filler hoses longer or whatever; my truck has a steel flat so I didn't have to deal with that.

Another necessary when raising the body and something you should have already done anyway is to replace the shoddy O.E.M. steering shaft with a Borgeson; .....or, lengthen the original = cut it and sleeve it with a length of tubing, welding the harder to access bottom side while the shaft is out of the truck; put the cut/sleeved shaft back in place, do the body-lift, and then weld the top of the sleeve where it landed --- MAKING SURE that you marked where the telescoping section rests before the lift (and before you cut) and you line up your marks before welding the remaining end of your sleeve.

Best to just tack it while mounted; then, take it back out and weld properly.

With two inches, the steering shaft begins to look scary; with three inches, it is within a hair of disengaging and coming in two; let the left front wheel drop in a hole while most of the weight is on the right rear and the shaft will come apart.

Much better and much easier to just get a Borgeson; slather every moving/sliding part of the Borgeson with that silver sh_t.

I could not imagine my truck without the body-lift; everything else I have done to it since has been much easier; you can't imagine how much difference two inches makes in clearing things.
Just the shaft from Borgesson that is supposed to be a direct replacement?
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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Just the shaft from Borgesson that is supposed to be a direct replacement?
Yes, you get the Borgeson shaft made for your truck/model and that should do it; a Borgeson has a lot more telescoping movement than a factory shaft, plus many other advantages; one being no rag joint.
 
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