Water Pump time...?

HammerDown

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Some (rusty) water dripping down from the harmonic ballancer area.
My guess the pump pushing is going.
Cant see the dam weep hole. ;Really

Only 7 years outta this one...but not many miles. :puke:

Auto Zone Duralast...> anyone have good luck with these :confused:
(new pump) $50.00 some bucks Lifetime
or
rebuilt $20.00 1-year war.
 

sassyrel

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rust out of weep hole--not good--before you change the water pump--get some cooling system flush--and get the rust outa der---after new pump is put on--use some cooling system conditioner --stops rust--its soluable oil--and lubricates the seal area--
 

icanfixall

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If you have rust floating around in the "water" it will grind the waterpump seal for sure. As stated clean the cooling system first BEFORE you install the next pump. Then run antifreeze so it wont rust the system again. When the water is used the frost plugs rust out faster than the cast iron block. Now I know you don't want to be replacing the plugs do you... Check the condition of the radiator too. It might be a good time to have it rodded out. Are you going to replace the hoses and check the thermostat while your this far into it??? :Sly
 

HammerDown

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Went with the NEW Pump from Auto Zone. Used my $20.00 gift card so it came to $30.00. Just finishing up now.

Glad it happened today vs next week when I will be towing my boat some 500 miles!

*T-stat coolant and all hoses are maybe 3-years old. Coolant came out bright green.
 

icanfixall

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Glad to hear the coolant was bright green and the job is done easily. Its too bad we can't just pull the front rad support off so we don't have to work upside down leaning over the radiator... :D
 

HammerDown

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icanfixall said:
Glad to hear the coolant was bright green and the job is done easily. Its too bad we can't just pull the front rad support off so we don't have to work upside down leaning over the radiator... :D
True but I'll tell ya...while I was doing this job I kept saying to myself..."this jobs pretty easy" ;Sweet ...can't imagine the headachs if it was a new 6.0 Ford :frustrate
 

zigg

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I noticed no-one said anything, and forgive me if you already know this stuff, but just wanted to remind you that you gotta make sure the top 2 center bolts are the shorter ones(if they're too long, they can hit the injection pump gear and cause all kinds of nasty problems...), and the top 2 and the bottom 2 also need to be sealed with silicone or some similar thing, so that you don't develop oil leaks down the front of the engine face! (both bolts are continuous with the oil drainage area down the front of the engine...)

Zigg
 

HammerDown

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zigg said:
I noticed no-one said anything, and forgive me if you already know this stuff, but just wanted to remind you that you gotta make sure the top 2 center bolts are the shorter ones(if they're too long, they can hit the injection pump gear and cause all kinds of nasty problems...), and the top 2 and the bottom 2 also need to be sealed with silicone or some similar thing, so that you don't develop oil leaks down the front of the engine face! (both bolts are continuous with the oil drainage area down the front of the engine...)

Zigg
Yep I'm well aware...but it's still a good idea for some others to get a refresher about those 2 bolts. :Sly
 

Agnem

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I hope that aftermarket water pump is bettert then the NAPA "Gold". The impeller wasn't pressed on fully, and they didn't machine the bosses where the bolts ride. :puke:
 

HammerDown

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Agnem said:
I hope that aftermarket water pump is bettert then the NAPA "Gold". The impeller wasn't pressed on fully, and they didn't machine the bosses where the bolts ride. :puke:
The unit I put on was pretty good...fit and finish. ;Sweet
 

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