water pump then radiator

[69dieselfreak]

first my water pump started leaking and i took half day to do it and started looking around the radiator its got calisum build up o top of the rows and is leaking a bit any suggestions would be great on who to ge a radiator from
i got one from napa hd cooling for like 400 ish thanks

 

[razorback]

i know how you feel..i just got my truck running to find a cooland leak..its from passenger side front..looks like its near the thermostat housing.. its a domino effect.. it gets really old.

 

[69dieselfreak]

u got it man with trucks as old as we got its gonna happen but i know now that my truck is done rite and my way
all i got to say is its got to be done
rite now im bolting **** back together and waiting on belts and radiator and at this point im going to do my gauges wile my truck is down and out
sorry mel there went my cash for your pump im sorry

 

[razorback]

mine hadnt been ran for probably 5 or 6 years prior to me starting it a week ago, i should of just did a basic run down to begin with, but now the little sufff is catching up.

 

[masterbeavis]

This is the reason why you are supposed to replace the antifreeze every couple of years, and keep it at the proper concentration. You might be able to patch up your radiator with a torch and solder till you can find a good deal on another one. Don't rely on your patchwork to last another 100K, it might fail, and cost you tenfold the money you would have saved by just fixing the problem.

 

[69dieselfreak]

This is the reason why you are supposed to replace the antifreeze every couple of years, and keep it at the proper concentration. You might be able to patch up your radiator with a torch and solder till you can find a good deal on another one. Don't rely on your patchwork to last another 100K, it might fail, and cost you tenfold the money you would have saved by just fixing the problem.

i had bought the truck from the company i worked for it was our old service truck the previous mechanic who had done the water pump before me had probably had 100% ethline glycol and then mixed it with good ol camp verde tap water this water is very hard thats the only thing i could come up with
ive worked here for 3 years had the truck for a year ive all ways watched my sca and dca and they have been good i recently added a coolant filter but the water thing is the only thing i could come up with as to why my rad is like that
i just went ahead and bought the FN thing and as for patching it up i know better and i know me i would make it last 100k or even longer if i did that and being how nice these arizona summers are i dont want to risk it

 

[69dieselfreak]

i know how you feel..i just got my truck running to find a cooland leak..its from passenger side front..looks like its near the thermostat housing.. its a domino effect.. it gets really old.

i just thought of something when i was doing my thermostat the head is rite behind it so just something to think about lets just hope it is your thermostat gasket

 

[69dieselfreak]

does this ever end napa sent me the wrong radiator so im going down to phx to take it to commersial radiator to build me a high effency one

 

[69dieselfreak]

just got my water temp, oil psi and oil temp gauge mounted and hooked up

 

[sassyrel]

find a good rad shop in your area--have them boil it--and backflush--then seal the leaks--boiling it in the proper solution--loosens the calcium--and when you backflush--the calcium goes flying--i do rads---this shouldnt cost tooooo much to have done--the brass lasts--its just the solder joints break down slowly because of the cycling----abd be careful of where you buy a new rad from--lots of foriegn rads out there---and they are a lot thinnner brass than american ones--you get what you pay for---

 

[69dieselfreak]

find a good rad shop in your area--have them boil it--and backflush--then seal the leaks--boiling it in the proper solution--loosens the calcium--and when you backflush--the calcium goes flying--i do rads---this shouldnt cost tooooo much to have done--the brass lasts--its just the solder joints break down slowly because of the cycling----abd be careful of where you buy a new rad from--lots of foriegn rads out there---and they are a lot thinnner brass than american ones--you get what you pay for---

i took it to the radiator shop that does our big trucks and im very pleased with there work so thats why i sent it to them in the end i just told them build me a radiator i made a bad choice by going to napa rad and then got my head on straight by going this way and its giving me time to tie up loose end projects that i got going

 

[razorback]

how old is your thermostat?

also, general question..when replacing the thermostat is it bad to take the rubber "ring" around the thermostat off and just install it flush?

 

[69dieselfreak]

how old is your thermostat?

also, general question..when replacing the thermostat is it bad to take the rubber "ring" around the thermostat off and just install it flush?

my thermostat was original but this was the time to replace it so i did and i took it off because it wouldnt sit in the seat but i left the rubber seal on the bottom so it could seal and i just bought a new gasket

 

[69dieselfreak]

shes up and running im so happy to get her back im tired of driving my girlfreinds piece of ****
oh ya got cat red ELC in im happy

 

[icanfixall]

About the rubber gasket under the thermostat??? I hope you are talking about the factory E5TZ-8575-C. Its the same part from Navistar but in a differant package. That ring is the stat seal. It has nothing to do with sealing it in the block opening. Its a better positive shutoff than the manufactor could get with a metal to metal seal. I just cut mine off and I'm running about 15 to 20 degrees cooler. I feel this is because it can now flow more coolant instead on going around the rubber seal. If this isn'r clear buy a factory thermostat and bring it up to boil in a pan of hot water on the stove. Use a candy thermoter to see when it starts to open. It needs to be fully open at 212 and be .26 inches open. If not its junk. Get another one. Also the start to open temp is 192 degrees + o* and - 5 to 7 degrees. Another area in my Navistar service manual states it 192 +/- 5... Go figure...