Water in Oil !!??

[65sixbanger]

ok i was filling up my radiator this morning before school because I had just pulled the motor the other day for the oil pan gasket, and the water was slowly dripping out around the water pump so i didnt think anything of it. I figured it was a loose bolt or something. Then when I got to school I noticed a small drop of grey fluid, And when I checked the oil it was overfilled with milky grey fluid, water and oil. Do you think my problem is in the water pump/ front cover? I also forgot the bolt on the very bottom of the water pump, so maybe the water could be coming through there...

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Yeah, I'd say put the bolt in there, and change the oil, see if that helps. I've been told that if all the bolts are not in coolant will leak either out, or in the crank case.

 

[65sixbanger]

ok thanks

 

[65sixbanger]

Ok now I am really at a loss, I just "fixed it" and after i took it for a test drive i noticed the motor started vibrating more and i was losing oil pressure. When I got home, there was a trail of oil everywhere.

 

[Diesel JD]

Oil cooler Orings? Also you may have a poor seal on the front of the motor where the water pump seals. You could have forgotten the correct sealant, not gotten the mating surfaces perfectly clean and then there is the possibility of using the wrong bolts. Water pump was a pretty tricky job.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

JD, since you mentioned the water pump bolts - I just changed my water pump and all of the perimeter bolts were the same length, there were the four real long ones around the inlet and outlet runners, but that was it, all the others were the same length. I know two of the perimeter bolts are supposed to be longer, but I didn't have those. Does that seem normal?

 

[Knuckledragger]

The two top ones are a little shorter than the rest so they do not interfere with the IP timing gear. It is possible that the pump mfr. supplied all shorter bolts so there is no possibility of confusing the lengths. I think the shorter ones will work all around, but may create sealing problems.

 

[RLDSL]

It sure sounds like coolant is getting into the oil pan from a leak around the pump.
If the pump has leaked past the seal , just replacing the bolt isn't going to take care of the leak. Unfortunately, you are going to have to remove the water pump, clean off the old gasket material get new gaskets and a tube of silicone( that ultra gray works good here) clean off the mating surfaces thoroughly and remount the thing. If there is any significant pitting on the backing plate, take some silicone and slather a heavy layer of it over the plate where the pump will seat first to allow for a level surface to prevent gaps

 

[Diesel JD]

Seems like there was an update somewhere along the line with these diesel water pumps. I can't remember what all was covered. I think the problem was that on some new water pumps the metal was thinner so the top bolts had to be shorter to keep from hitting the IP gear or something. My feeling is....if the bolts aren't hitting the IP gear and you don't have any coolant/oil mixing or any leaks you did it right. Was your water pump from Ford or another new unit or a reman unit....?

 

[65sixbanger]

Yeah I konw yall are right on the water pump gasket not being perfect, so i guess I will do that after school. I am getting pretty good at tearing it down to the water pump now haha, but this oil is getting expensive.

I think I have narrowed my oil leak down to the drain on the turbo. It was all over the firewall.

Despite all this trouble I was extremely impressed with how the truck for the first time having a turbo. It was totally worth the money.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

JD, my pump is a new Gates pump, and it came with two new bolts that were the exact same length as all the perimeter bolts I pulled from it. Go figure.

And I second Robert's suggestion of using RTV sealer for the water pump in addition to the gasket itself - my pump backing plate was pretty pitted, not enough to where the coolant will leak through it, but enough to make me question the gasket sealing properly - I put some Permatex #2 gasket maker on the WP then laid the gasket on it, then put some more gasket maker on top of the seal and slapped the pump on - no leaks whatsoever, so I assume job well done. I actually always do that when replacing anything that has a seal or gasket, I switch between Permatex #2 and the black RTV depending on application and gasket material, but so far the practice has never failed me.

65sixbanger, is your turbo drain leak between the turbo housing and the pedestal it's mounted onto? There is an o-ring there that dries up with running time and starts leaking, IIRC you can still get the correct O-ring from ATS.

 

[Diesel JD]

Ivan yeah it looks like you did everything right then. Those oversized bolts were only on the "updated" Ford factory replacement pumps if I remember right. Someone probably still has the TSB on that...I do not. But I wouldn't worry one bit if it was mine.

 

[65sixbanger]

ok I finished replacing the front cover gasket, water pump gasket, and front main. I haven't added water yet, but I feel a lot more confident about this because when I pulled the cover off there was no silicone or gasket on the back side. I forgot to do that the other day.

Now for the oil leak, I started it up just to try and find it, and it comes rushing down the bellhousing on the passenger's side, kinda by the starter. My only guess to that is the oil fitting to the block. I know I am supposed to use the pickup down by the slave cylinder/ oil filter, but that plug was already stripped out, So I am stuck having to use the one behind the turbo. Another reason why I think its that is because I had to take it out when installing the turbo, and if it goes like everything else I do, I bet I forgot teflon, or to tighten it good enough.