vacuum pump

[LCAM-01XA]

That little ****** went out on me this afternoon as I was slowing down for some railroad tracks, good thing there was no train coming and there were no cars before me. Weird thing is the red warning light on the dashboard never came on, even when I physically pulled the vacuum line off the low-vacuum switch. I took a good vacuum pump off my buddy's '86 F250 as it don't run right now (undergoing tank and fuel pump replacement), but I gotta return it obviously, so I need a new pump for myself. Question is, where do I get one? One that's reliable, that is, don't really trust asian-sweat-shop-made knock-offs... Also the darn vacuum switch, where do I get one of those too, one that will make the idiot light come on at the dash?

 

[Agnem]

Motorcraft. Ford parts counter.

 

[Pipeliner_86]

Ivan, are you robbing parts off Jake's truck? I'm pretty sure I have some v-belt vaccuum pumps over at the farm in my spare parts bin. I can look for ya if needed.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Mel, how big of a price-tag should I expect at the dealership?

Jeremy, yes, I took it off Jake's truck, as right now it don't run - we just put a new front tank in it, the rear one will be going in soon as well, and we're probably converting to electric fuel pump as the mechanical lift pump died last week. So for now Jake don't really need his vacuum pump, but I'll obviously have to give it back soon, so if you can look through your parts bin for a good one that would be sweet!

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

The vacuum-pumps are ridiculously simple to overhaul, especially according to what they charge for a new one = I paid over $150 at Ford garage about twenty years ago for one; I'm sure they are more now.

Do you know whether your problem is the diaphragm or the cam mechanism ??

What most people don't know is that there is an oil check/fill plug on the back side of the pump; many die from lack of oil.

Properly lubed, they will last for many years.

The diaphragms are all of the same bolt-pattern, whether off a Dodge/Cummins, Ford, or vacuum-trailer kit; what fits one will fit them all.

The cam housings of the belt-driven pumps are also all the same, with the only difference being the size of the pulley and width of belt.

The factory Ford is an "A" belt, whereas all the trailer pumps use "B" belts(fatter).

 

[EMD_DRIVER]

What type of lube would it take??

Gary

Snip...

What most people don't know is that there is an oil check/fill plug on the back side of the pump; many die from lack of oil.

Properly lubed, they will last for many years.... Snip

 

[LCAM-01XA]

I'd imagine tis the diaphragm that failed, as if you turn the pulley by hand it does turn in pulses, so the cam is definitely still there. Where can a diaphragm be obtained, other than a dealership or junkyard?

 

[tractorman86]

i wonder if an electric motor can be adapted in the place of the pulley...

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

What type of lube would it take??

Gary

Anything is better than nothing.

I have used plain old 15W-40, 90-wt, and straight STP.

I'd imagine tis the diaphragm that failed, as if you turn the pulley by hand it does turn in pulses, so the cam is definitely still there. Where can a diaphragm be obtained, other than a dealership or junkyard?

Put your finger over the hole, turn the pump, and see if it "sucks".

If it is pulsing, it doesn't sound like the diaphragm to me.

i wonder if an electric motor can be adapted in the place of the pulley...

No reason why not.

As I have numerous diesel trucks and several vacuum-over-hydraulic trailer-brake set-ups, I have been intending to build myself a vacuum-pump testing device that utilizes an electric motor to spin the pumps.


I scavenge every vacuum-pump I see and have often taken the best of several to make one good one.



The ridiculous ease of installation and much less expense of the inferior electric-over-hydraulic trailer-brakes has made the much better vacuum-over-hydraulic set-ups harder and harder to source parts for, so I have sort of out of necessity became quite proficient at resurrecting vacuum components.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Put your finger over the hole, turn the pump, and see if it "sucks".

If it is pulsing, it doesn't sound like the diaphragm to me.

No sucking action at all, but like I said the pulley does pulse when turned by hand... time to disassemble the thing, I guess, anything I should watch out for?

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

No sucking action at all, but like I said the pulley does pulse when turned by hand... time to disassemble the thing, I guess, anything I should watch out for?

Before you condemned the pump, did you put a gauge on the port right at the pump, thus eliminating all the vacuum-lines, and check the pump's vacuum ??


The only portion of the pump that can't be taken apart with plain old tools is the stamped-together diaphragm housing.

If one had the patience to "un-crimp" the housing, the diaphragm could probably be replaced with a piece of heavy inner-tube material, and the housing re-crimped.

 

[GenLightening]

I have one on my spare engine if you want it. I don't know the history on it, but it's your for if you want to pay the shipping.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Before you condemned the pump, did you put a gauge on the port right at the pump, thus eliminating all the vacuum-lines, and check the pump's vacuum ??

Didn't have a vacuum gauge at that time, but having played with carburetors more that I'd like to admit I know how vacuum feels - basically I pulled the lines off the pump, and then there was no suction whatsoever felt at the pump's inlet. I'm yet to take the darn thing apart and see what went wrong...

I have one on my spare engine if you want it. I don't know the history on it, but it's your for if you want to pay the shipping.

Doug, thanks for the offer man, you'll have a PM soon.