jhenegh
Truck Still Earns its Keep
Are used studs worth anything? What could be wrong with them?
Used ARP Studs
- Thread starter jhenegh
- Start date
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Oh hell.. they are shot. you need to tell us whos trying to sell crap...
Honestly they are fine to reuse. Thats the idea behind installing them. they are a much better reuse item than the oem head bolts are. Many better engines use a stud instead of a bolt. Way back in the 30s the Duesenberg overhead twin can 4 valve cylinder heads had studs instead of bolts. Thats an impressive engine too. We recommend them because they are stronger than the head bolts and they can be reused many times in not forever.
Honestly they are fine to reuse. Thats the idea behind installing them. they are a much better reuse item than the oem head bolts are. Many better engines use a stud instead of a bolt. Way back in the 30s the Duesenberg overhead twin can 4 valve cylinder heads had studs instead of bolts. Thats an impressive engine too. We recommend them because they are stronger than the head bolts and they can be reused many times in not forever.
Knuckledragger
blowing chunks and grabbing porcelain
If you are negotiating to buy them, they aren't worth much, they are used.
If you are selling them, they are broken in, you don't have to go through the 5x torque system. They are worth more than new because you save so much time!
Car companies don't use studs anymore because they take extra time to install, unlike a bolt.
If you are selling them, they are broken in, you don't have to go through the 5x torque system. They are worth more than new because you save so much time!
Car companies don't use studs anymore because they take extra time to install, unlike a bolt.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
What Mike posted above is very true. It probably takes more than twice as long installing a stud as it does to install a bolt. I did the test years ago to see what a new.. Not a used head bolt breaks at. The number was 153,000 psi when it broke. Now we all know the ARP studs break at either 200,000 or 220,000 psi. Mat not sound like a lot more but it sure is. Nobody has lost a head gasket using an ARP stud. Many years back Ken at DPS and I worked on the first studs designed for our 7.3 idi engine. I got the first set and used them. They looked like surgical grade stainless but they were a H13 grade material and the breaking strength was 270,000 psi. I overheated my engine when a freeze plug let go at 5200 miles on a fresh rebuilt engine. Friggen shop installed brass plugs and did it wrong too. Note to elf. When the coolant goes away you have nothing touching the coolant sender telling it your getting hot. Believe me I was watching the gauges pulling a grade here in cali called The Grape Vine.. Thats a grade. Well it let go and the only reason I knew something was wrong was the engine started to clatter like it was out of oil. Thats when I saw the engine oil temp passing 3330 degrees.. Way to late to save anything. When I used those studs in the next rebuilt I found one laying in my drive and thought it was a 3/8 drive extension...then when I looked at it I opened the hood only to find another broken stud and coolant leaking from the head to block joint on the drivers side. Had just fueled up for a horse show and that was the end of that trip. Used my trusty chevy c30 truck for that trip. Even ARp had a tuff time figuring out why the studs broke. Never a real clear answer either. Others that had bought Kens later studs were finding them broken on engines that sat overnite in a shop. Seems he was having issues with the heat treating specialist shop. I wonder if overheating mine has anything to do with the failure...
I overheated my engine when a freeze plug let go at 5200 miles on a fresh rebuilt engine. Friggen shop installed brass plugs and did it wrong too. Note to elf. When the coolant goes away you have nothing touching the coolant sender telling it your getting hot. Believe me I was watching the gauges pulling a grade here in cali called The Grape Vine.. Thats a grade. Well it let go and the only reason I knew something was wrong was the engine started to clatter like it was out of oil. Thats when I saw the engine oil temp passing 3330 degrees.. Way to late to save anything. When I used those studs in the next rebuilt I found one laying in my drive and thought it was a 3/8 drive extension...then when I looked at it I opened the hood only to find another broken stud and coolant leaking from the head to block joint on the drivers side. Had just fueled up for a horse show and that was the end of that trip. Used my trusty chevy c30 truck for that trip. Even ARp had a tuff time figuring out why the studs broke. Never a real clear answer either. Others that had bought Kens later studs were finding them broken on engines that sat overnite in a shop. Seems he was having issues with the heat treating specialist shop. I wonder if overheating mine has anything to do with the failure...
theguruat12
Certified Tinkerer
Lot of good info in that post Gary, thanks! Only makes my decision to go with the ARP studs when I redo my heads even strounger.
