Upgrade Suggestions

[Shaguardriver]

Hello All

I am looking for a few suggestions on the next move for power. It looks as if I will not thave the budget for a turbo for atleast a year or so.

Back Story 90 7.3 stock only 28k, F350 dually, Crewcab, 5 speed

My list,

1) Straight pipe the exhaust 4 inch. I might omit the muffler but I do not want it too loud since I am getting older and I will be pounding highway miles.

2) Pyro and temp gauge. The current temp gage is inoperable (see other post, I might be over cooling but not that bad, it never moves)

3) Turn Up IP (after Pyro)


The primary use is for a tow rig for the Jeep and the Camper seen in the avatar. I am currently getting 11.7 mph fully loaded. It is quite slow getting on the hwy in 3rd gear. So I am looking for improvements there.

I am looking for suggestions and places to look for parts.

Thanks in Advance

 

[GOOSE]

Free up the intake side as well. Cowl induction will get some cooler air for the engine to use. I have even toyed the idea of a functional hood scoop for a little forced induction at highway speed. Having it timed may get you a few ponies lost over the years also. Low mileage can take a toll on the pump also. Running an addiative in your fuel may help things.

Untill the turbo comes along, concentrate on the maintenance things. Full synthetic oils and grease may add a mpg. Servicing the bearings can free up some rolling resistance. A poorly aligned front end will cause extra drag. Make sure the cooling system is up to the extra demand that the turbo will put on it. A lot of this may sound boring and mundane but the prep will make the addition of a turbo much more pleasant.

that truck looks heavy!! Are you running air bags? I swear by mine. Good luck.

 

[david85]

Don't strait pipe unless you have a turbo. Even then it will still crackle hard and loud.

 

[MR.T]

Back Story 90 7.3 stock only 28k, F350 dually, Crewcab, 5 speed
My list,

1) Straight pipe the exhaust 4 inch. I might omit the muffler but I do not want it too loud since I am getting older and I will be pounding highway miles.

2) Pyro and temp gauge. The current temp gage is inoperable (see other post, I might be over cooling but not that bad, it never moves)

3) Turn Up IP (after Pyro)

The primary use is for a tow rig for the Jeep and the Camper seen in the avatar. I am currently getting 11.7 mph fully loaded. It is quite slow getting on the hwy in 3rd gear. So I am looking for improvements there.

Nice truck, I envy those low miles! For what it's worth, I'd forget the exhaust, and turning the pump up as well.

My concern with the IP is that it's easy to get incorrect exhaust temps (bad sensor location, sensor not inserted deep enough, gauge accuracy, mechanical or fuel problems lowering temp on one or more cylinders, etc.) My IP is not turned up and the exhaust will hit 1250 F at full power on a hill. Doubt if mine is that different from yours if the pump and injectors are working right.

The EGT gauge I like - install the thermocouple between 6 & 8 on the driver's side manifiold (it's easy to get a straight shot with a hand drill and to tap the hole). It's good info to monitor and troubleshoot even without turning up the IP.

Look at the sound insulation under the hood where the air intake is. It's designed to suck air from under the hood in the front, it's sealed off in the front, presumably to avoid water induction from water at bumper height where it could splash up between the hood and grill. I cut away the part of the insulation that gets in the way of air flow from the front, then cut a 1.5" hole in the low spot of the plastic air inlet at the low spot to let any water out. Having said that, my limited experience is there is very minimal gains to be had with air induction mods-- a new air cleaner element is the best investment.

I've used synthetic lubes everywhere on my truck since it was new, but once again my experience is that the MPG is only slightly affected. I prefer them more for their longevity and reliability in harsh conditions. I had the valve covers off last month and the engine looked like new inside after 22 years.

Tires, and tire pressure appears to make a significant difference with MPG. 'Been happy with the Michelin LTX tires, both on and off-road.

My experience is that the injectors, the IP, and timing make the most difference in power and MPG. I recently replaced the injectors and the IP, and it's looking like about a 2 mpg increase for the same highway driving. 530 miles this weekend: 18.5 MPG. Also picked up ~5 MPH on a hill I use for a dyno after the pump and injector replacement.

Your camper, trailer, jeep, and dual rear wheels, are going to take more power then mine. 11.7 MPG sounds a bit low at first, but that's a big camper and it's probably heavy.

How one drives affects MPG too, if my kid drove mine I'd bet on 14 MPG --presuming he drives like I did at his age...

 

[White Trash]

Don't strait pipe unless you have a turbo. Even then it will still crackle hard and loud.

Mine is all 3" from the front hanger out the back through a stock 3" CTD tailpipe over the rear axle and it sounds flat out awesome. Very loud so I'd suggest against it to the OP but I love it.


Getting rid of the "soup bowl" and changing to pull air from outside that's cooler will certainly help.

 

[Shaguardriver]

Goose
As for heavy yes it is trailer and Jeep about 7-8k and camper 1.5-2k. I have been doing the maint items that need attention and also getting a little deeper to prevent any failures. Like I will be replacing a U-joint today since I heard the tell clicking last night.

As for the intake I have heard about removing the bowl and shovel in the air cleaner any thought on this?

If you do not mind send me a picture of your truck. We are looking at repainting the old girl and I might twin your paint

Dave
Thanks for the warning. If I were 10 years younger I might just do it.

MrT
As for the intake I have heard about removing the bowl and shovel in the air cleaner any thought on this?

I do believe I drive a bit heavy on the skinny pedal. Heading to Northern MI it gets hilly (for us flat lander at least). I am cruising about 60-70 loaded. I am in 4th gear running 2000-2500 rpms on the hills but if I get over 2500 I will shift up.

I do need more gages I like to monitor what is going on I hate dummy lights that turn on when it is too late.

What are your thoughts on the bowl and shovel removal in the air cleaner?

 

[MR.T]

Regarding removing the soup bowl, I doubt it does any good. There's a lot of space (volume for air to flow) between the inside if the air cleaner element and the bowl. I believe a clean, low restriction air filter has the most effect. Just an opinion, we'd need a dyno to prove it one way or the other.

 

[franklin2]

I am not sure the soup ***** mod does anything either, except I do know it makes the air cleaner area have a moaning noise when you are at higher rpms. That must be why they went to the trouble to put it in there.

 

[Agnem]

A Banks Power Pack, if you can find one, was supposedly dyno proven to get you 10HP.

 

[Shaguardriver]

What is the Banks Powerpack? I will do some more searching. I looked on the site and no description matches.

 

[GOOSE]

Goose


If you do not mind send me a picture of your truck. We are looking at repainting the old girl and I might twin your paint

It's the Ford oxford white with 3M reflective vinyl street sign material. The Oregon based logging company I bought it from outfits their fleet that way. Can't miss it at night, sticks out like a sore thumb!! The hood and driver's fender have been replaced and are missing the decal material. It has grown on me and I'll probably re-decal the new pieces keep it this way for a while.