Turbo seals leaking oil, just want confirmation

[Brad S.]

Little background info, heads on my pickup have just been rebuilt, this May, new valves, guides, seals, whole ball of wax.
Been driving the pickup for about 2 weeks and still using oil.
I'm not catching it in my homemade catch system, golden rod filter bowl with fine steel wool, and yes I have a CDR too.
No big puddles on the ground.
Tonight I felt directly under the exhaust side of the turbo, and little wet with oil.
The tailpipe signs are just little blue smoke all the time while driving.
The tailpipe exit is not wet.
Now for the bad part, in about 60-70 miles of driving I'm going through just about 1 qt.
Now for the questions.
When I put a new intake pan was for a non turbo, I put more holes in the drain back area, would 4 holes at 5/16 dia be enough???
If the exhaust side oil seal is out would it only smoke a little??
If both sides of the turbo oil seals are out could it burn that much through both sides??
I've got a ATS 88 what kind of cost can I expect for new bearings, seals, maybe even a shaft???
Thanks

 

[79jasper]

I would pull that sucker and be looking quickly.
That much oil means you could be close to a runaway.

I thought someone said ALL new valley pans are turbo spec.

 

[Dave Barbieri]

Your additional holes in the valley pan are fine - they'll do the job. I did the same thing to mine and the oil drains well. My ATS 93 uses a bolt on fitting/cap at the top of the turbo cartridge that allows for oil pressure sender and oil supply line. When you look inside that fitting, you see that the oil supply hole is about .060". That's a pretty small hole for the oil to get through. That's what keeps the lube system from flooding the bushings/bearings in the cartridge. So, as far as drainback, you're in good shape.

While you're checking the bottom of the turbo, look real closely at the pedestal mount point. If the o-ring is going, your oil could be coming from there and traveling down the housing. Gravity would put it right about where you found it.

 

[Brad S.]

While you're checking the bottom of the turbo, look real closely at the pedestal mount point. If the o-ring is going, your oil could be coming from there and traveling down the housing. Gravity would put it right about where you found it.[/QUOTE]

I remember looking at this o-ring when I put everything back together. Of course it didn't look bad but that doesn't mean anything.
I talked to a diesel shop this morning about new seals etc, I'll ask them about that o-ring as well.
Is that o-ring a special type or could I replace it with a "normal" o-ring??
Another shop I talked to said a rebuilt or exchanged turbo could run $750-$900 Is this normal for a ATS88??

And with that much oil consumption I've put it back on the DL, for the time, won't take that long to pull the turbo and bring it in.

 

[Dave Barbieri]

Tell the folks that the o-ring is for automotive applications - it needs to handle hot engine oil. "Regular" o-rings that I see at the hardware store/Tractor Supply/Atwood's/Whatever are usually designed for home use (plumbing). They're not gonna last. 160 degree hot water is NOT 240 degree high detergent, high pressure engine oil. You need a good quality automotive o-ring to do the job.

Before you start shelling out money for rebuilt or replacement turbos, contact Russ (Typ4) or Mel (Conestoga Diesel). Both are widely recognized as serious, high quality craftsmen with strong ethics and great honesty. They'll answer your questions knowledgeably, repair your turbo perfectly and treat you fairly. I've done business with both, and trust me, it doesn't get any better. Period.

 

[Agnem]

If your sure your turbo is the problem, I can rebuild that for you, hopefully for less than what you were quoted. If your compressor side is leaking, you should have oil present in your compressor outlet. If the exhaust side is leaking, you will have oil in your exhaust housing and probably down pipe.

 

[Brad S.]

If your sure your turbo is the problem, I can rebuild that for you, hopefully for less than what you were quoted. If your compressor side is leaking, you should have oil present in your compressor outlet. If the exhaust side is leaking, you will have oil in your exhaust housing and probably down pipe.

Hopefully I'll get pulled tonight. Then I'll know little better.
PM me with what new seals and new bearings might cost.
Thanks Mel

 

[icanfixall]

Only a qualified rebuilder that has your turo in hand will be able to quote prices on whats needed. Mel or Russ are the ones many here trust to do the right thing. They really are the best at what they do for us. Please don't think you can replace some bearings and seals and make it all good. Balancing is the biggest part of any turbo repair. Nobody can tell you its ok and no need to balance. These turbos spin upwards of 120,000 rpm. Shocking as it is thats 2000 rpm per second. Please have the turbo professionaly balanced. Or you will be back in it soon because the shaft and bearings are shot again. In some cases the fan blades rub the housing. Then thats an expensive machining to fix because of the compound curve.