Turbo oil feed and oil pressure gauge taps

slvrwrx

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So I've been doing my motor swap and on my "new" engine the oil tap locations were shown here. The one close to the flywheel to the rear of the engine was going directly to the turbo. The other one in the middle lower area, the one I snapped off lol, was going to a oil pressure gauge. It read 20-40 psi usually. Now, when I pulled the plug on the new engine to install the tap, I only used the one in the rear or the engine. The one that before, was directly to the turbo. I then put a T fitting in it and hooked up an oil pressure gauge to that. This measuring oil pressure directly to the turbo. I got barely 20psi. Wouldn't go up. The turbo sounded really sluggish and didn't spool right when I revved it. I wasn't smart enough to blow compressed air thru the lines before installing them, I'm hoping that the lines are clogged. If that doesn't work i will try the other tap, the lower middle one. Does anyone know which one would be better to use, and does anyone see a problem with my idea? Now it hurts me to see this vid of me revving it up without good oil pressure.

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Here's a video. Also don't know what this clacking is.. May just be ip timing?

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=JJexbkZ7Uwk
 

icanfixall

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I see a couple of things. Thats a 6.9 out of a van and thats ok. You have a bad injection pump so thats the knocking we hear some of the time. The revs are fine. The blue smoke is the extra fuel washing down the cylinder oil film. Might also need a set of injecters too. Was the engine warmed up in the vid or was it cold. A cold engine will be on fast idle and cold advance. Please get a filter on the turbo. Otherwise it can suck anything in and that will damage the fan. The turbo is idleing probably 30,000 rpm and when its under load pulling its up around 130,000 plus rpm. At 120,000 rpm its spinning the turbo 2000 times per SECOND. Anything hitting the turbo hot or cold fan will ruin it...
 

slvrwrx

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What about the oil pressure.? I'm scared to run it for long because my gauge wasn't reading much psi? I'm going to take the lines off and blow air thru them.. What's the likelihood of my oil pump being bad?

And the injection pump.. It's bad? Is this going to cause runaway? Did you notice the sound of the engine after revved? On the come down there's a little hump at the end of the video? What do you make of that?

I lost my last motor to dusting I understand the importance. However I'm terrified of the runaway situation so I have a block of wood ready until i feel comfortable with it.. lack of oil pressure is scary too..

Which brings me to the realization I need some kind of valve in my intake path to choke it out in a runaway.. I have a c6..
 
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jaluhn83

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Oil pressure sounds about right. It should go up cold and at higher rpm, but that might be a restricted line or something. The original port you had the gauge hooked to is a cross drilling to the main galley IIRC, whereas the new one is further up in the circuit and having the turbo teed in will cause it to show lower pressure as well. I'm getting ~10-15 psi at idle with the same system, with it going up to about 40 psi at higher rpm or when cold.
 

GenLightening

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either port is fine. Most aftermarket lits used the lower port and the factory ATS used the upper one. What kind of gauge are you using (stock, aftermarket)? And is it the same one you got the 20-40psi reading on before?
 

slvrwrx

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I think it's an autometer ill check tomorrow. But yea it kinda went up before. See it's blind to me and I might be over reacting because Like I said the oil pressure gauge before went to the lower one. I just don't see oil coming out when I pull the line off the port where the gauge line goes in. It's slow and sludge like, I mean maybe it needed to build pressure because at one point while running it was just steady 20 psi, but didn't go up to the 40 when I went to high idle.. I'm just really afraid the oil isn't enough to the turbo...?

At idle it used to whistle really loud. I may have a slight exhaust leak but not that bad to where the turbo doesn't even spool. The turbo sounds like its barely spinning..
 

GenLightening

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One thing, try removing the line from the gauge and letting oil flow out of it. Sometimes having air in the line can cause it to read low. And if the oil was cold/thick it could take a bit to travel to the gauge and give a good reading.
 

riotwarrior

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One thing, try removing the line from the gauge and letting oil flow out of it. Sometimes having air in the line can cause it to read low. And if the oil was cold/thick it could take a bit to travel to the gauge and give a good reading.

JM2CW....and a cautionary note....

remove most forward wire on IP this is fuel stop solenoid....just turn over engine a few times till this line pumps out a bit of oil. This way you don't run the engine with an oil presurized line open to bleed out oil at pressure.

Maybe this can ensure oil is coming out line. If so conect to gauge, then again...turn over and look for leaks...then install the FSS wire to IP and fire up truck and look for leaks ....

Just sayin...Bet on caution!
 

slvrwrx

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Tomorrow I'm going to take the oil line off. Then blow compressed air thru the line to make sure that no clogging is goin on. Then I'm running new copper line to the gauge. When I hook it up, I am supposed to let the line bleed at the gauge until I see oil, correct?
 

slvrwrx

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JM2CW....and a cautionary note....

remove most forward wire on IP this is fuel stop solenoid....just turn over engine a few times till this line pumps out a bit of oil. This way you don't run the engine with an oil presurized line open to bleed out oil at pressure.

Maybe this can ensure oil is coming out line. If so conect to gauge, then again...turn over and look for leaks...then install the FSS wire to IP and fire up truck and look for leaks ....

Just sayin...Bet on caution!

Thanks. I've been doing that too.. I have a manual starter switch so I leave the key off and hit the starter.. Does the same job. :)
 

icanfixall

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When I installed a new mechanical oil pressure gauge it would take about 30 seconds for the gauge to show pressure. Shutting down the engine the pressure would take about a minute to bleed down. It drove me crazy looking for a problem. Turns out the 1/8 inch copper tubing I cut to fit had the ends rolled over from the tubing cutter. So a little work cleaning off the ends and I had instant oil pressure up and down once again. The oil pressure regulater in found in the rear oil cooler headr. Many times the spring in that will wear down on the saides from sliding so much on the hardened metal valve parts. Then you wont get the pressure you expect. When you installed this engine did you use your other oil cooler... The can be replaced but they are terribly expensive..
 

79jasper

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Oil pressure sounds about right. It should go up cold and at higher rpm, but that might be a restricted line or something. The original port you had the gauge hooked to is a cross drilling to the main galley IIRC, whereas the new one is further up in the circuit and having the turbo teed in will cause it to show lower pressure as well. I'm getting ~10-15 psi at idle with the same system, with it going up to about 40 psi at higher rpm or when cold.
I second that. It will read lower at the end of the line vs nearer the oil cooler.
Also it sounds normal to me. Turbo sounded fine also. In theory the 6.9 will spool a little less because it's not flowing the same cfm of the 7.3. But it sounds plenty loud to me.
 

slvrwrx

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Thanks for the input. I had to use my 7.3 oil cooler and headers. I think I may also have an exhaust leak at the up pipe.. Maybe. I usually freak out a little more than I should sometimes. Sunday ill get back out at it and hope it doesn't runaway. That hiccup on decel when I rev scares me.
 

rhkcommander

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If your exhaust isnt blue the engine isnt consuming oil. If it isnt consuming oil it wont run away.

We dont have as high of pressure as cummins or pstroke
 
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