Turbo boost

Preems14

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Well it looks like im gonna have to do some research how to adjust the wastegate then. Unless there is a thread somewhere on here that tells how to do it
 

MARQ2277

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Go to their turbo (company cite), and down load the manuels for the turbo, I did it for my ATS.

Marq
_____________________________________
1990 Ford F-250 4X4:
7.3 IDI with 120K on the clock:
ATS Turbo with waste gate:
Stage One Injectors (Oregon Injector Service):
Complete Return Fuel Kit (Oregon Injector Service):
DB2 Pump, cranked up with Cold Advance wired permanently on:
4” down pipe, 4” straight through exhaust stopping between cab and bed (no **** on my stuff):
Torque Converter Lock Up Switch (On/Off/Lock-Up):
E4OD Line Pressure Controller (adjusted to fast/firm shifts):
4” lift w/Rancho shocks:
Big Fat Tires on custom rims:

Tows 1985 fully loaded heavy 28 foot RV (my house) everywhere:
 

zpd307

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ats' upgraded 3 inch exhaust outlet housing and 3 inch downpipe will remove a MAJOR restriction on the turbo, thus allowing for more boost. you will need to turn up the pump to get more fuel to spin the turbo up. also make yourself a better intake to help get more air in. you should be pleasantly surprised at the results. messing with the wastegate will set your max boost.
 

Ironman03R

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I could be mistaken but I think if you're seeing 10 psi on a non gated setup your fuel is turned WAAY up unless you have some hills or you're hauling a big load. Bill is right these factors make a huge difference with turbos, probably second only to fueling.

Actually I was playing tonight and seen 11, pyro was only about 600(and climbing) at the time but I dont think I trust it, its slow to climb. Probe is in the manifold. It gets good smoke but I dont think it has the power the 94 has.
 

funnyman06

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What kinda boost are people getting off the old non wastegated Banks set ups? Im trying to get my paws on a kit and was wondering what kinda numbers i should be expecting.
 

MARQ2277

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Not sure on the Banks, but like zpd307 said, I got a real big K&N filter intake, and a 4" down pipe to a 4" out that ends between my cab and bed with no **** on my stuff. And, trust me boys and girls, the difference is night and day. The turbo spools a lot faster, it sounds so cool, and the power and low and grunt is just awsome. I can stomp on the go peddle, and brake loose my big ass tires without out power braking it.

Marq
____________________________________
1990 Ford F-250 4X4:
7.3 IDI with 120K on the clock:
ATS Turbo with waste gate:
Stage One Injectors (Oregon Injector Service):
Complete Return Fuel Kit (Oregon Injector Service):
DB2 Pump, cranked up with Cold Advance wired permanently on:
4” down pipe, 4” straight through exhaust stopping between cab and bed (no **** on my stuff):
Torque Converter Lock Up Switch (On/Off/Lock-Up):
E4OD Line Pressure Controller (adjusted to fast/firm shifts):
4” lift w/Rancho shocks:
Big Fat Tires on custom rims:

Tows 1985 fully loaded heavy 28 foot RV (my house) everywhere:
 

Agnem

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Non-Wastegated units have no boost ceiling. It is a matter of RPM's, load, and fueling. As has been stated, a turbo makes no boost at any given RPM without a load. If it starts boosting at 2000 RPM just sitting in the driveway with the trans in neutral, then there is a serious restriction between the turbo and the the cylinders, or the engine is somehow loaded. Consequently, boost will be regulated by the amount of expanding gasses in the exhaust, applied via the turbo to the intake side of the engine, in proportion to the speed of both sides. The faster those gasses expand in proportion to the speed of the engine, the more boost you will see. Fueling facilitates the expansion of gasses. The fuel must always stay ahead of the available air to burn it in order for boost to continue to increase. Those of you who max out at 13psi or what have you, have reached an equilibrium where the amount of fuel available is in proportion to the air available to burn it. While in theory you would think that the exhaust might clear up, it continues to be black because of the inefficiency of our injectors and precups later in the exhaust stroke. Jam more fuel in there, earlier in the combustion process, and more of the fuel will turn to presure which will contribute to higher exhaust velocity, and consequently more air. Remember, where there is smoke, their is fire. Smoke is just fuel that isn't completely burned. That doesn't mean unburned fuel. If the fuel was unburned, it would still come out a liquid. :D The Moose Pump delivers more fuel. Period. That's what makes more boost. In a wastegated turbo, you'll just get your max boost earlier, but the wastegate needs to go if you want to really jam the air in there.
 

MARQ2277

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That is very true. Just remember that the 6.9/7.3 has a 21.5 to 1 compression ratio. Too much boost will lift the head, blow a head gasket, and/or cause other damage to the rotation assembly. These motors are not made to handle 30lb of boost, that's why they (at least mine) have waste gates, or turbos made to only produce so much boost (because of the area of the exhaust and compressor wheel).

To truely boost these engines, you realy must use lower compression and turbo ready pistons and rods. That's why Cummins can be boosted beyound belief, low compression, and (have you ever seen the size of a Cummins pistion, rod and crank, holy crap, the crank weighs 150lb's by itself) and monster built rods, pistons, and crank. Even above 50lb's Cummins must use larger head bolts, and sometime ring the heads, but the stock rods, pistons, and crank can handle over 1000hp/1000lb's of torque. No other light truck diesel engine can claim that.

Marq
_______________________________________
1990 Ford F-250 4X4:
7.3 IDI with 120K on the clock:
ATS Turbo with waste gate:
Stage One Injectors (Oregon Injector Service):
Complete Return Fuel Kit (Oregon Injector Service):
DB2 Pump, cranked up with Cold Advance wired permanently on:
4” down pipe, 4” straight through exhaust stopping between cab and bed (no **** on my stuff):
Torque Converter Lock Up Switch (On/Off/Lock-Up):
E4OD Line Pressure Controller (adjusted to fast/firm shifts):
4” lift w/Rancho shocks:
Big Fat Tires on custom rims:

Tows 1985 fully loaded heavy 28 foot RV (my house) everywhere:
 

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