trying to play mechanic....

[schulhoff]

so i have a few questions...
first off. my damn hood release cable snapped, now i cant get the hood open. i need the hood open.
second. i replaced all the injectors, glow-plugs, fuel return lines, the lift pump and kinda jerreyrigged a GP wiring harness. It makes this awesome rattling noise when its at idle. not when i bring it up to like 900 RPS though and not when the clutch is all the way in. i think it needs a new clutch BUT... ive been wrong before,
thirdly. fuel tanks. my front tank leaks like its its job when its over 1/2 full. to track down the leak or just get a new tank? and im pretty sure that both my shower heads are broken off. is it easier to pull the bed or drop the tanks...
so feel free to offer advise... or just point and laugh from a distance

thanks
nick

 

[TWeatherford]

I always wondered what I would do if my hood release cable snapped. Sorry, I'm not much help there.

As for the noise that goes away when the clutch is in or at higher rpms - probably gear rollover noise from a single mass flywheel conversion. If you remove the clutch inspection cover, see if you can move the flywheel teeth independently of the rest of the flywheel (in neutral with wheels chocked). If you can you've got a DMF probably on its way out. If not its likely gear noise, won't hurt a thing and can be quieted down by overfilling a quart or two through the hole the shifter bolts to.

 

[bab029]

on the trucks like mine, you can reach behind the latch mechanism and there's a little round tab on the driver's side that the cable pulls on you can pull with a finger. The cable was broken when I bought my truck, so maybe there's more to it than that, previous owner showed me the trick.

 

[Desertrig]

Pull the grill unless you can grab the cable with long needle nose and pull towards drivers side without the extra work. I just got a front steel tank from jc Whitney for 75 shipped - they had a 10% off coupon. For that kinda money versus a repair that may or may not last on a job that sucks, gets crap in your eyes, and always happens when the tank is as full as it can be (my front has the same half leak, my unique to the super duty rear tank, the hole is in the bottom of the tank), i'll pay for an under 100 part every time. I'd only pull the bed if I didn't have to pull the tank, the bed is empty, and had a lift - me loader's too small (pump in tank set ups, I do prefer to pull the bed).

On the odd noise, get it happening and use a screwdriver or pry bar as a stethescope to locate the noise. I pulled a 300d into the shop once that I was absolutely sure was about to throw a rod. Turned out one of the ac lines had broken free from a mount and was slapping on the mount... If you here it from the bell housing it could be a clutch spring came loose or the DMF or maybe some play in your fork???

 

[icanfixall]

Well the sad part of the leaking tank is its probably shot so dropping it and replacing it is probably the best thing to do. I'm guessing your in the salt belt areas and thats caused the hole in the tanks. As for lifting the bed.. Sure, it has been done but neededing a replacement tank wont change getting under there to drop the tank. As for the broken shower heads that simple. A 3 or 4 inch piece of 3/8 hose and a clamp will fix both tanks. Adding a tee to the end od the hose will keep the end from sucking down to the tank bottom or cut a v in the end of the hose works too. Please clean out all the broken shower head parts. If any small pieces get sucked into the fuel line the tank switching valve is sure to get fouled up. Then it wont change from front to back and you find yourself running out of fuel with a full tank.. Kind of a mess too.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

If it's the dmf, it will make the same noise when you shut the engine off, too, from my experience. I'd say that's most likely it.

 

[schulhoff]

If it's the dmf, it will make the same noise when you shut the engine off, too, from my experience. I'd say that's most likely it.

The extreme rattelling amd shuttering when the truck turnes off. It does that same thing. How serious is that problem?

 

[Desertrig]

From what I've gathered reading up here dmf's are NLA. Smf will make a rollover noise and some members report buying new smf that are out of balance and cause problems, so some members collect DMF. I'm not sure if a bad DMF can take out the clutch on an idi, but I would assume so. The tdi's had a bad run of DMF taking out clutch which they wouldn't warranty because it was a wear item. Most likely if your pulling the trans to do the flywheel your going to do the clutch, pilot bearing, and fork parts, too. These are the reasons (+ 2nd gear synchro) are the reason I didn't put my zf5 in my super duty (it would have ended up costing the same and I had to do the R&R+find the pedal, fix the firewall....) plus I still have a backup truck..... My red truck used to do a funny lurching thing on cold starts when trying to roll out in first. It seems to have worked it self out. Have you checked to see if you already have an smf?

 

[schulhoff]

No I still need to pull the clitch inspection plate and do so. But I was gonna redo the clutch anyway and replace the flywheel while I'm in there

 

[icanfixall]

If or when you replace the flywheel make sure the bolt torque to the crank is 47 lbs. And use some kind of thread sealant too. Those bolt holes in the crank go into the oily side of the engine oil pan. Oil has leaked out when members didn't use a thread sealant and it nearly ruined a new clutch. Both Ford and international sell new crank bolts but you have to tell them what length you need. There are a few differant lengths...I like useing blue loctite on these threads. That way I kill 2 birds with one stone.. I lock the threads and seal them all in the same method. We have had a few members loose all the bolts because they loosened up and broke off.. Now that really makes a mess..

 

[cpdenton]

When I ordered my smf kit from autozone, it came with all new crank bolts, and pressure plate bolts. I was glad it did too, saved me from having to buy them ales where because I was converting from an auto.

 

[gatorman21218]

Let me look up where I ordered my LUK kit from. I already had the SMF but got a new clutch while the engine was out.

I used Loctite 515 on the crank bolts. Its a anoerobic flange sealant but it works great on threads as well.

By the way if you are doing the rear main seal... DONT use those plastic alignment dowels they supply for the seal to align up the flywheel. I sheared a dowel in the hole and thankfully got it out 30 mins later by heating a 6 penny finish nail red hot and melting it into the dowel, let it solidify and then I screwed it out.

 

[gatorman21218]

1993 Ford F350 Clutch Kit Clutch Price: $184.85 Core: $0.00 Qty: 1 Part #: 07-131

www.partsgeek.com on june 25th

 

[schulhoff]

So how big of a deal is a bad flywheel. I'm gonna replace it regardless. But I wanna know how much damage that will be done to the engine from running the truck

 

[Desertrig]

A flywheel is a slightly bigger pita than an AT swap. I have a hard time imagining engine damage: maybe rear/front main seals, maybe engine mounts. I'm firmly in the tech/shade tree category though so maybe one of the engine builders will chime in.