Truck Won't Start

[6.9power]

Had a transmission issue, disconnected the battery, removed the valve body, cleaned and replaced it. Connected the battery and I get no ignition. It makes one loud click, coming from somewhere over the passenger side wheel well. There's lots of wires attached and running across that wheel and one or two of them are very, very hot - even if I just bump the key and don't hold it.

I'm lost. Anybody have an idea what could be going on? I put the truck in Park and Neutral thinking maybe it was a safety switch issue. Still just the one loud click and then nothing. Batteries are good, even connected the charger just to make sure.

 

[Shadetreemechanic]

There is a bad connection near the hot wires. Clean your battery terminals and try again. Could also be a bad cable that just showed up when you moved it to disconnect it from the battery.

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

Check the connection at the starter as well Jon. Can't tell ya how many times I've heard that similar click and found a loosened up cable.

 

[6.9power]

The hot wires are the greenish ones that come off of the relay on the passenger side. They then run into a connector and turn into two yellow wires that then run into the harness and somewhere uknown. Where do these run into? Im guessing the problem may be on the end of those.

 

[icanfixall]

Sounds like your describing the wires feeding the glow plug controller. There is a large engine wireing harness connecter near the passenger head. Usually dirt and corrosion start to break down the continuity on the two wires at the end of the plug. Those yellow wires were never heavy enough to carry the amps used by the controller. How they last as long as they do is a wonder. Try cleaning them with a tooth brush and contact cleaner that wont harm plastic. Apply some die-electric grease and post back what happens. I really can't offer a guess as to why the motor wont start but some great guesses have been offered.

 

[6.9power]

The glow plugs work. So I am thinking those wires may not be the problem. Or do those somehow work the starter or ignition?

 

[rhkcommander]

glop plugs have their own relay and are seperate from starter. might be a relay clicking for the starter, starter and the starter relay and gp relay are all on passenger side. if it is by the wheel well sounds like starter trying to engage but cant because of bad connection or dead batt IMO

 

[Goofyexponent]

Go to the passenger side fender well, and you will find a solenoid there. Take a screw driver and cross over the two big terminals. If it starts, this solenoid is shot and should be replaced (maybe a $15 part, no big loss) but if it fails to start, your problem is the cable going to the solenoid, or the cable going from the solenoid to the starter. Worse case is the starter selenoid on the starter or the starter itself is gone.

You said your GP's are working, so it's not a ground problem. If the engine ground was bad, the GP's wouldn't cycle as they would have no ground back to the frame and batteries through the engine block.

 

[93f250idi]

If it's not the solinoid I would check the starter that's what Mine done when it gave out just one click turns out my brushes were locked up or something but it was a 60 fix

 

[6.9power]

The thing that sits up on and connects to the the fender, not the fenderwell is the thing that is clicking. So the problem is somehow connected to that. Any ideas?

 

[Goofyexponent]

The thing that sits up on and connects to the the fender, not the fenderwell is the thing that is clicking. So the problem is somehow connected to that. Any ideas?

If that is clicking, this means it's closing, but it does not mean voltage is flowing through it. Take a screw driver and touch both of the big terminals at the same time. If nothing happens, then go a little further down the line and look at the starter. See if the solenoid on the starter is engaging, maybe a little tap with a hammer will free it up enough to start

 

[6.9power]

Tapped the starter and solenoid. Nothing. Is it possible that starter the relay has just gone bad?

 

[Agnem]

OK let's put the brakes on here people....

Telling somebody to disconnect and reseat all kinds of stuff when we know what they have already fooled with and not concentrating on that is illogical and will only cause more problems. Not a single person has pointed out that a simple test light or volt meter will find the issue in about 90 seconds.

I suspect a bad battery cable end or connection, but lets go ahead and prove that. Get yourself a test light, and do this....

Put your ground probe on a good screw head on the fender that is definitely part of the vehicle ground, and then probe the positive battery post on the passenger side.

Got juice? Check. Next item.
Move probe to the lug on the fender solenoid that has the wire coming from the batter positive cable. Got juice? Check. Next item.

With the probe in the same spot, have someone try to crank the engine by turning the key. Did the light stay on? Check. Next.

Pull back the small wire on the fender solenoid and probe that connection with the wire attached. Does the light light when the key is turned to crank? Check. Next.

Probe the lug that goes to the starter itself. When the key is turned to crank, does the light light? Check. Next.

Get under the truck and probe the big wire where it connects to the starter. Probe there. Do you get a light all the time? Check. Next.

Probe the small wire at the starter. Do you get a light when it cranks? I guarantee you you do not! That's because your problem was probably back at least 6 or 7 checks ago.

 

[6.9power]

Well, I don't really know what I did, but I fixed it. I took the starter off to have it tested just to make sure, and it tested fine. So, I put it back in and now it starts.

 

[93f250idi]

Was prolly a bad connection. did cleaning the valve body fix the trans?