Truck starting issues, not the usual

ISPKI

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So my "new" F-Superduty has this intermittent issue where the starter seemed to be not engage fully sometimes, causing it to make that horrific wine as the teeth spin by without engaging the flexplate.

Starter looked old so I bought a new powermaster unit and installed it yesterday. Found that the bottom bolt on the starter wasnt tight, middle bolt was rounded off and threads were packed with dirt, and top bolt was missing. Teeth on the old starter actually didnt look THAT bad so I assumed it just wasnt engaging all the way.

Chased all the threaded holes to clean them out, and inspected the flexplate only to find that the teeth on the flex plate are chewed to hell. Long section of teeth that are easily half gone. So, now I am into it for a new flexplate install as well. Any recommendations for flexplates? Rockauto has pioneer and ATP brands for around 80$.

For changing it out, I will need to separate the transmission from the engine enough to get the torque converter off? Probably will need to drain the TC before removing it? I suppose I will be able to inspect the TC once I take it off.
 

Big Bart

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ISPKI,

I would suggest you pull the tranny. You will have to basically unhook it all just to move it back 6” just get it out of the way. Leave the torque converter in the tranny, but hold it or tie it back so it does not slip out when pulling the tranny out (coat hanger with a block if plywood.), no need to drain it. May be easier to pull the transfer case off if doing it solo or without a tranny Jack. Also mark your drive shaft so you can mate up with the axle the same way it came off. Can prevent a out of balance issue. Check your front seal on tranny if leaking replace. Check your u-joints if old, rusty, or binding replace.

Then you have full access to the flex plate. Replace the rear main seal, have not done one so hopefully someone can weigh in on if it’s straight forward.

Use loctite on the crank bolts and torque converter bolts and torque to spec.

Lube your shifter and transfer case links while you are under there.

Sucks prior person did a hack job and now it’s more work than it should be.
 

ISPKI

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I have a new flexplate coming tomorrow I think, another 120$ down. Nice tips on securing the TC and drive shaft, i'll do that. Although I wonder if I should replace the TC with this NIB Dayco TC I picked up. Guess we'll see.

Trucks a superduty so it doesnt have a transfer case and fortunately it is very clean underneath.
 

Big Bart

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ISPKI,

When you get the flex plate just make sure it matches up with your TC, or if you choose to, your Dayco TC. Should fit but if not you will not be fighting getting the tranny back in. (Because the TQ does not fit the flex plate. Or you just needed slightly bigger bolt holes.)

If you already have a new TC and folks on this site say the Dayco brand works good, then why not replace it. I would replace the front tranny case seal too if you do. You might as well do the tailshaft seal too while its all out.

I would put a couple of quarts of ATF in the new Dayco TC before you put on the tranny. You don't want it so full it pours out when you put it on, but I think they hold something like 3-4 quarts. Did a tranny service one time, put the drain plug on the torque converter to 5' o-clock so it would only drain out about 80%. (Wanted some left in it.) Quite a bit came out of the TC.

I am sure you already planned to, but be sure to check your ATF level after your done if you change the TC.

Glad its your truck with 2wd, that will make this so much easier than 4wd.
 
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IDIBRONCO

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You should put a new front seal in your transmission at this time too. You don't want to get it all back together, drive it a while, and then find out that the seal is leaking.
 

ISPKI

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You should put a new front seal in your transmission at this time too. You don't want to get it all back together, drive it a while, and then find out that the seal is leaking.

Ill look into it. Supposedly this transmission was rebuilt in 2013 (has a faded rebuild tag on it) and the truck has only had a few thousand miles put on it since then. Was bought at auction in NC at some point with 19X,*** on it, only just crested 200K, spent that time in a quarry and was seemingly maintained well.

The TC definitely isnt stock. Blue in color with chalk paint written on it, i'll know more once I get into it. I need to start it and move it down my driveway into my shop so hopefully theres enough teeth to start it up.
 

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