Truck is drifting.

cowman79

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It looks like energy suspensions is the way to go. My big concerns is bolts. When replacing bolts in the rear suspension they all had to be torched. It looks like maybe there are two different size bolts in the front. I also think it is Interesting that they don't have metal sleeves on the outside like the original.
 

Kahunias-J-puppy

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I have been looking into replacing all of the bushings in the front end. Does anyone have any recommendations for bushings.
Contact MOOG VIA TELEPHONE. Ihave a 94IDI. They have complete pre -pkgd sets. About a grand$. They're the industry best, in my opinion..

Sent from my LM-X210(G) using Tapatalk
 

cowman79

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Shew a Grand that's pricey. The energy suspension looked to be around $250 with bolts.
 

The_Josh_Bear

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In the last year I have replaced the ABS valve on the frame and the master cylinder as well. I have spent hours bleeding the system and even removing the spring in the ABS valve as a test. I have been fighting pedal fade over he past few months.
Did you carefully measure the old cylinder pushrod length and match the new one to that? If not, that's probably your issue right there. It came up a little while ago here, and just before that my buddy did the same thing in his jeep.
 

cowman79

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Pushrod length on the master cylinder? I didnt measure anything on the master cylinder I just Swapped it and started bleeding brakes. This truck has never really had good brakes. But got worse when I had a line blow and I had to replace the abs valve and then the maste cylinder.
 

cowman79

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I just checked out the bushings. The sway bar is worn and it looks like a the rearward on the front springs are worn. Aslo the truck is occasionally making popping sounds under the driverside floor when turning.
 

The_Josh_Bear

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Pushrod length on the master cylinder? I didnt measure anything on the master cylinder I just Swapped it and started bleeding brakes. This truck has never really had good brakes. But got worse when I had a line blow and I had to replace the abs valve and then the maste cylinder.
Yes sir, on the master cylinder. It's completely possible that the one you had was too short, then swapped for the next one that's still too short, and hence the deep pedal travel and poor braking.
 

Macrobb

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I've found that tie rod ends and ball joints will definitely cause wandering. Have someone watch the tie rod ends for play as you have someone move the steering wheel back and forth.
Also watch the ball joints when doing this.
You may also want to put a jack on each wheel in the front, get it off the ground, then push/pull on the tire and see if it moves. It shouldn't move up/down(going in/out at the ball joint).
 

The_Josh_Bear

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cowman79

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I have made any progress on the truck I am awaiting parts. I will keep you posted on what I find and how the truck drives.
 

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