Trailer mounted battery vs truck mount

[u2slow]

The limit with the hot/charging lead on the 7pin is the current. #10 is the biggest I've been able jam into one. It's ok for charging and light loads. Not for paralleling 2 batts for cranking/winching/etc.

 

[TNBrett]

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If you look closely, the diagram actually show charging a bank of batteries

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See fuse 18, and relay 5.

The battery charge circuit is designed for just that, to charge batteries in the trailer. I would never suggest that it be used for running a winch, or paralleling the truck and trailer for emergency starting. I have installed deep cycle batteries in many different trailers for many different reasons, winches, hydraulic tilt, hydraulic landing gear, inverters, or just general interior lighting. I’ve done them all the way I described.

For example, let’s look at the task of winching a vehicle onto a trailer. You can leave the truck shut off while working for this hypothetical. Your winch draws 300amps from the battery on the trailer for 6 minutes as you pull the vehicle on. That’s 30amp hours (300 amps x 0.1 hrs). You start the truck with no issues because the winch was completely isolated from your starting batteries. As the truck is running and you’re driving, the battery on the trailer is recharged in about an hours time. (30 amp charging rate x 1 hour of drive time).

[mention]Bradd Barmettler [/mention] with regards to the EOH brakes on your boat, you may want to double check your wiring. If the 12v+ feed for the actuator is fed directly from the trailer charge circuit, what happens in the event of a break away. That 12v feed should be tied to an on board battery so that if the trailer comes unhooked from the truck, it can still actuate the brakes. This is usually accomplished with one larger breakaway battery. If the breakaway is wired like a trailer with standard electric brakes, but the actuator is fed from the truck, then when the breakaway pin is pulled, a 12v signal will be sent to the controller, but there will be no power to the actual pump, and the brakes will not apply.


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[Big Bart]

TN Brett,

It’s been about 10 years ago I had the trailer built so it’s been a minute. As I recall the pump/actuator needs ground, 12v positive, and a brake controller signal. If the trailer brakes away the break away switch activates and the break away battery powers the brakes. The EOH 12v positive is already is parallel with the break away battery and is still getting 12v positive as I recall. So vehicle charges the break away battery and powers EOH while towing. The brake away switch when pulled and activated then sends 12 v positive down the brake controller line causing the EOH pump/actuator to apply maximum brake line pressure stopping the trailer ASAP.

I do not run house batteries on my trailers so not an issue for me. My Triton Snowmobile trailer needs a back up light signal so I am wired as most. But if I had house batteries and electric brakes I would split off my house batteries on the back up light circuit, use an isolator, use 10 guage wire, and a resetting fuse. Then know my house batteries will not be potentially causing a problem with my electric brakes or break away system.