Time for a clutch- need reccomendations

zpd307

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i have full syn dex/merc6, i believe, in mine. the noise is so much that you can not hardly talk to anyone without yelling. push in the clutch and it is a world of difference. i also turned up my idle, its around 800 now. when the tranny is cold, it is a lot more quiet. it gets noisier as it warms up, and gets really loud when it is worked....
 

Hybrid455

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Actually, I switched to the synthetic 30wt atf in mid winter ( it was right around low 20s overnight) and I noticed the difference immidiatly in that I wasn't grinding gears the first five miles every cold morning anymore :rotflmao Even though it's a heavier wt, it's a synthetic so it flows better when cold, it doesn't get all thick and gooey like the dino oil that was in the thing before, so no worries ;Sweet

What brand, where did you get your fluid?
 

Exekiel69

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rollover noise may be different from one engine to another, Mel's truck is one of the most quiet IDI engine I've hear running Mine wasn't bad but there was a tick I could never find but I believed was from the FW. I would call Pete at SB, those guys really know their stuff, I bought mine from dial-a-clutch and wasn't impressed with their customer service.
 

franklin2

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About the noise; I don't know if I should comment on this yet, since I only have run the truck on one road test trip, but if the noise I hear is what everyone is complaining about, I don't get it. When the tranny was cold, I didn't get any noise, and when it was warmed up after the road test, I get a slight noise like you would get with a loose catalytic convertor shield. Certainly nothing I am going to worry about, and mine as far as I know still has the ATF in it(I haven't checked it yet).

Ok, I ran the truck pretty hard today pulling a skid steer on my trailer, and the tranny is a little noisy. I should have known I had jumped to conclusions too earlycookoo:dunno. I think I will try the motor oil and see what happens.
 

reklund

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Well, I drove up to Clint's place (Hybrid455) on Saturday in between family events to listen to the rollover noise in his setup with a single mass flywheel. While the noise wasn't unbearable, it's definitely noticeable, both inside and outside the truck. I know that the noise can be different in every setup, but I'm leaning towards another dual mass setup just to keep things factory.

Looking at the SouthBend website, they list their dual mass kit as including a Valeo flywheel. Any other manufacturer to look at besides Valeo for the flywheel? Any other clutch to consider besides the southbend kit?

I had the trans out a few years ago to do the rear main, and recall it wasn't too bad except for having to remove the downpipe to get it out. I looked today, and may be able to sneak the trans out around the downpipe on my new Aurora 2000 turbo kit. Anything else to consider replacing while it's apart?

Ryan
 

65sixbanger

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I have a Valeo DMF. I bought it used and didn't think twice about installing it on my truck(thought the play was ok), turns out this flywheel clatters and makes so much damn noise when you lug it or let the clutch slip a little. I can't complain because I did buy it used. Other than that it is great LOL
 

RLDSL

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Well, I drove up to Clint's place (Hybrid455) on Saturday in between family events to listen to the rollover noise in his setup with a single mass flywheel. While the noise wasn't unbearable, it's definitely noticeable, both inside and outside the truck. I know that the noise can be different in every setup, but I'm leaning towards another dual mass setup just to keep things factory.

Looking at the SouthBend website, they list their dual mass kit as including a Valeo flywheel. Any other manufacturer to look at besides Valeo for the flywheel? Any other clutch to consider besides the southbend kit?

I had the trans out a few years ago to do the rear main, and recall it wasn't too bad except for having to remove the downpipe to get it out. I looked today, and may be able to sneak the trans out around the downpipe on my new Aurora 2000 turbo kit. Anything else to consider replacing while it's apart?

Ryan

There are many different brands that make flywheels for these things. It's worth a call to Ft Wayne Clutch Their products and customer service are second to none.
If you are ever going to be hauling heavy with that thing you *really* ought to reconsider the SMF. Aside from the obvious dampening action of the DMF, there is the lesser known overload protection device built into the thing, internally in the DMF . IT is designed to ONLY be used with a stock spec clutch. if you try to mate a heavy duty clutch of any kind up against a dmf, the overload protection device instantly becomes the weak link in the system and is destined for failure and a very inoppertune moment, when it fails, it will slip just as if your clutch had given out. i found this out the hard way when trying to wiggle my empty car hauler out onto the road one night and the thing broke loose and started slipping like crazy, and once they've slipped, that's it, game over, the thing will never hold properly again.
I'm not exactly sure why it's there, maybe to keep folks from trying to pull stumps and crack their crankshaft, I don't know, whatever the reason, it's a worthless pain in the neck that can leave you dead in the water.
If you plan on going with an advanced clutch surface, or towing heavy, there really is no other choice but a SMF . I fought it tooth and nail, I really wanted to keep the DMF but after that bit, never again, and with the 12 1/4" setup, all those extra springs keep the thing so quiet, I really haven't had any noise to complain about.
 

franklin2

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If you are ever going to be hauling heavy with that thing you *really* ought to reconsider the SMF. Aside from the obvious dampening action of the DMF, there is the lesser known overload protection device built into the thing, internally in the DMF . IT is designed to ONLY be used with a stock spec clutch. if you try to mate a heavy duty clutch of any kind up against a dmf, the overload protection device instantly becomes the weak link in the system and is destined for failure and a very inoppertune moment, when it fails, it will slip just as if your clutch had given out. i found this out the hard way when trying to wiggle my empty car hauler out onto the road one night and the thing broke loose and started slipping like crazy, and once they've slipped, that's it, game over, the thing will never hold properly again.
I'm not exactly sure why it's there, maybe to keep folks from trying to pull stumps and crack their crankshaft, I don't know, whatever the reason, it's a worthless pain in the neck that can leave you dead in the water.

He said in his first post that the clutch was slipping. I bet this overload device in the flywheel is what's really slipping.
 
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Dsl_Dog_Treat

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Ryan, IIRC a conversation that was had awhile back was when they chose the transmission for the engine and initially mated it with the IDI, the engineers also discovered the rollover noise and determined that it would more than likely hamper sales of this particular drivetrain combination.

So they designed the DMF to eliminate the noise and it also aided in dampening the initial driveline shock.

Before investing in a new flywheel check for play on your existing one, less than an inch of rotational play is still within specs.

I've thrown on the LUK kit with the spring disc on Goldie with the stock DMF and am more than happy with it.;Sweet
 

RLDSL

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He said in his first post that the clutch was slipping. I bet this overload device in the fylwheel is what's really slipping.

Good point!
Lets go back here
"My truck is modded, and will likely get more goodies in the future"
"running about 9-10psi max right now, but have room for more before the EGT's get too high. Currently, I'm out of fuel, as the DPS pump can't keep up. I'm planning on some Moose fuel products and some MLS headgaskets and ARP studs nest summer. For now, though, the truck has to be a daily driver and tow rig, and for that I'll need a new clutch."

This right here is an indicator that this truck is already past the point where a DMF is going to be an effective piece for this truck. CHances are the overload protection device has already been overpowered on this DMF and a new one won't fare any better with a maxed out DPS pump pushing the thing. It was only specd for factory power output and no more, any extra load on one end or the other the thing can friction material can only interperet one way, as a problem, and it's only choice is to do it's appointed job and cut loose.

With the kind of power you have and especially the kind you are wanting to add, a SMF is the only way you need to go with that thing.
 

Agnem

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I'd like to know where this concept of an overload device in the DMF is coming from. I've taken several apart, done 3 lucky mod's, and do not see any way the moveable portion of the flywheel can rotate more than a maximum of about 3" within the confines of the flywheel "housing". There are a zillion parts in one, all of which produce friction and spring dampening. However, there is nothing that will cut loose and allow one piece to rotate around the other more than the distance I described. If one were to be somehow overpowered, it would simply break, never to function again. :dunno
 

RLDSL

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I'd like to know where this concept of an overload device in the DMF is coming from. I've taken several apart, done 3 lucky mod's, and do not see any way the moveable portion of the flywheel can rotate more than a maximum of about 3" within the confines of the flywheel "housing". There are a zillion parts in one, all of which produce friction and spring dampening. However, there is nothing that will cut loose and allow one piece to rotate around the other more than the distance I described. If one were to be somehow overpowered, it would simply break, never to function again. :dunno

A while back someone over on FTE I believe it was, had a nice set of breakdown pics that identified the culpret section, It becomes silly obvious once it's broken down, because the thing isn't supposed to move. It;s one of the small center sandwiched in discs, all part of that mess. works in concert the outer edge contacts the springs with the ears and the inner stuff acts independently.
 

sle2115

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I have a DMF I'm going to have surfaced (not in bad shape as is) and it is unbolted to be surfaced. I can take some pics. There is only one friction surface inside that I saw.
 

reklund

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I was on the same train of thought as Mel about DMF operation, having taken mine out once before to do a rear main seal. I can't see it "slipping" to cause the kind of behavior the my truck exhibits right now. My truck is modified, and will likely get more mods in the future for sure. I will eventually get a gooseneck setup and build a custom toyhauler to haul my rock buggy, so heavier hauling is in my future as well.

I'm intrigued by the thought of a 12.25" clutch with extra damping springs in it- perhaps I'll call Ft. Wayne clutch tomorrow.

Keep your input coming guys-

Ryan
 

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