thinking of making a flatbed

rustygold

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Looking at making a flatbed any ideas on how?

I have an idea using 2x3 tubing that 14 gauge for all of it. Don't know if that will be too weak or heavy for the truck.
 

IDIoit

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14 gauge is pretty thin, but light.
my buddy went to his local scrap metal yard and purchased some warehouse rack systems
and built the 4 sides out of that, then braced the middle.
the lip it has on it was perfect for 3/4" ply
 

rustygold

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I could go with 11 gauge but heard everyone makes the 1/8 to 1/4 thick With angle iron. I was the 14 gauge 2x3 rectangle tube would be like doubling it up
 

sjwelds

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In my opinion too thin. Borderline weak but here's the real problem: rust.

The tube will (not might; will) fill up eventually with water, mud, and other contaminants. Once that happens, it won't take long to rust through 14 gauge tube. I've seen quite a few flatbeds with this exact construction, and that is what happened.
 

sjwelds

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I'd use 3" x 4.1 lb. structural channel. 4.1 lbs. per foot of length. If you need more height off the frame you could use 4" x 5.4 lb. for the long-members. (running front to rear)
 

chris142

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Ck your local laws. I went through this with our Cajon scales here in Ca. A pickup has a pickup bed. Once that bed is removed its no longer considered a pickup and falls into "truck" catergory. Complete with the need to stop at scales, run a log book etc.
 

jhenegh

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Here's mine

4" Channel perpendicular to frame front and back notched 2". 4" channel then set into those notches that run the length of the bed front to back. 3" crossmembers and a 1" white oak floor. literally just finished it last night. I have yet to re-weigh compared to the regular bed.
 

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marmot

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Ck your local laws. I went through this with our Cajon scales here in Ca. A pickup has a pickup bed. Once that bed is removed its no longer considered a pickup and falls into "truck" catergory. Complete with the need to stop at scales, run a log book etc.

OMG California laws suck!
 

Waystro

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Here's mine

4" Channel perpendicular to frame front and back notched 2". 4" channel then set into those notches that run the length of the bed front to back. 3" crossmembers and a 1" white oak floor. literally just finished it last night. I have yet to re-weigh compared to the regular bed.

Wow Thats a Sharp Looking Flatbed. :love:
 

MontanaJack

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OMG California laws suck!

That's why they keep moving overs here with us:puke::D

I do think the angle iron is key to keeping wight down without sacrificing strength when it comes to the cross members. I've seen a few done with channel, but that drives the weight and cost way up there.

Jhenegh- well done! Very professional looking :hail
 
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Greg5OH

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this is mine, 6x9 wood area, 6"x2"x9' white oak planks, 13 of em.
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sits ontop of two 3" Channels which sit on 3"x3/16" square tube, and two 2" tubes on either side of the gooseneck hump. total of 9 2" C channel as the cross sections, 4" C channel as the perimiter. the front and rear C channels rest on the longitudinal rails, while the outer C channel rail is floating and just welded to all the cross sections. plenty stout though. Thanks to sherwin for helping me design it. Boards are securied with a total of 244 2.5" trailer decking screws.
secured to the frame with 6 metal "straps" which are 2" wide 1/8" 7" long sections welded to the square tube then two 5/8" bolts hold it to the frame per strap. Eventually I will make springer mounts for the front so that the frame can twist independently of the flatbed, ensuring the flatbed stays nice and level regardless of the terrain I am on.
 
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