The typical "Hard To start" thread

Doc

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After surviving open pump surgery, Big Red was doing fine. Fuel mileage went back up to normal and start ups were easy.

Over the past week I've trouble getting the beast started in the morning or after sitting all day. After replacing the pump, injectors, and fuel pump, plus getting the timing set by computer, I'm at a loss as to why I'm having any starting trouble. Oh, the temps here have yet to get below 40.
 

Diezel_Cowboy

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After I pulse timed my truck it is also harder to start when it is cold. It will start right up if I hold the glow plug button for 10-13 seconds but without that may as well forget it. It started a lot easier before but the timing was retarded about 5 degrees.
 

gunnie

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is it possible you are getting air in the system, air causes hard start after setting. how does it start after its run for a couple minutes?
 

Doc

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It starts fine after running even for a little bit. I tried letting the glow plugs run a few extrea seconds and it does start a bit easier.
 

troutwest66

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It starts fine after running even for a little bit. I tried letting the glow plugs run a few extra seconds and it does start a bit easier.


What's your GP burn time until the amp gauge starts to bounce? Mild temps on a cold engine might be as long as 10+ seconds and up to 13+ in northern winter weather. Could be you have one or more GPs out and need to replace them. Ohm your GPs, no more than one ohm cold.
 

Doc

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Morning temps around these parts lately have been in the low 60's. My amp gauge starts to bounce at about 6 to 8 seconds. What are the steps to ohm glow plugs?
 

Doc

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By the way Troutwest, I got a buddy in Spokane that is a hard core fly fisher nut. Maybe you know him. He's an Orthopedic Physician Assistant at Rockwood in Spokane. He eats and breaths fly fishing.
 

troutwest66

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Don't know your buddy but there's a ton of us long-rodders up here.

On ohming the plugs all you have to is, with a meter, put one lead on the end of the GP and the other to ground on the motor. More than one ohm resistance cold and the plug is bad. I would test any new plugs before installing. Not likely but a new plug can be bad. Be sure to buy Beru plugs. They make the Ford OEM and International OEM plugs. Autozone or an International dealer will have the ZD9 plugs for about $10 each. Ford will charge around $25 each.:eek: The two plugs under the turbo are the hardest to get to but aren't as bad as some say. The toughest part for me was getting the harness boot off the plug, under the turbo, without breaking the plastic. Had to repair a couple with shrink tube. I used a spark plug boot remover for the other harness boots. Too bad you weren't still in Spokane I could give you a hand. I ended up using a screwdriver and needle nose pliers on the boots under the turbo to coax them off the plugs. When you replace the plugs do those under the turbo first and the other will be cake. Be sure to put a dab of anti-seize on the new plug threads to help with removal if needed in the future.
 

93_E_350

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As far as checking your glow plugs go, remove all glow plugs and glean around the base of the nut portion with a hand held wire brush, you’ll fined an insulator ring in that area. Rust can buildup around this insulator and give you a false reading when checking with a light or meter. I use a digital ohm meter. I check the glow plugs when they are removed from engine by wrapping them in a rag (so the meter doesn’t short through your body) and using the digital ohm meter. With good connections and COLD glow plugs (72*) I’ve always gotten 00.0, I’ve heard folks say 00.3 is good also.
 

troutwest66

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It's not necessary to pull the GPs to test them. You can use any good ground to test. I've not found any rust on top of the motor. I wouldn't pull the GPs unless you're going to replace them. You certainly can pull them but when you have the ATS turbo like Doc and I have you only do it when you have to. N/A engines there's nothing in the way.
 
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