idi traveler
Full Access Member
How did you wire the motor for 24V?
the big bad oil tank and filtering system
- Thread starter Boston
- Start date
How did you wire the motor for 24V?
another stellar question, I just realized my truck batteries are wired in parallel rather than series so the truck is wired up 12 volts and I need 24, oops, that kinda threw a wrench into things.
oh well its just another obstacle
I'll have to ask my electrical engineer buddy what kinda gizmo will allow me to leave the elec in the truck the way it is and jump up the juice at the pump motor to 24V
might be easier and cheaper to just find a new motor thats 12 volts
oh well its just another obstacle
I'll have to ask my electrical engineer buddy what kinda gizmo will allow me to leave the elec in the truck the way it is and jump up the juice at the pump motor to 24V
might be easier and cheaper to just find a new motor thats 12 volts
93turbo_animal
Registered User
I guess since you don't have your tank plumbed to the truck you may be ok then and it just sorta depends on where your from on how bad they are checking rigs. It seems with the down turn of the economy around here they will do anything to generate some revenue
seawalkersee
It needs a turbo...
Is there an article that 'splains the water/oil together that you are using to clean the oil? How much did you spend on your centrifuge? Why not get a Bronco rear tank and run it and put that big cleaning tank in the garage or something out of the way and just forget it? I mean, fill it and fill from it as it is in an out building.
SWS
SWS
idi traveler
Full Access Member
Ah snap, cause that's a cool motor.
I might still run the system of the 24 volt, I'll have to consult with a few people but I might be able to rig a diode bridge or two to a wiring plan that would enable me to run the motor at 24V while still isolating the truck from the series wiring that it would require. I might also be able to rig a 24V alternator off the engine and maintain two elec systems one for the truck and the other for the motor. But that's not a very cost effective way to resolve the problem. A new 12V motor 1/3 hp is only about $130 so its not the end of the world that I brain farted on the motor. Might even fit on the existing bracket ( seems like it should, I have plenty of room ) but I was hoping to use all that extra room for the controller. Oh well, It was kinda going way to smoothly anyway. My first inclination is to just buy a 12V motor
Yes I could just pick the thing out of the truck and leave it in the backyard but then I wouldn't be able to go more than a few hundred miles without spending on fuel again. I don't really understand what you mean by
still working on the heating system, my options are to use coolant off the engine, use exhaust off the tail pipe, electric heating pads or spot heater or use this Breese Burner I have laying around.
The engine coolant plan means it would take forever to warm up the oil. The engine exhaust plan would be difficult to control, I'd need a high temp ball valve or two to shunt the exhaust when not needed, and some pretty fancy tailpipe work and a few whopping holes drilled through the bed of the truck bringing the exhaust up through and onto a heat exchanger. The electric heater seems the easiest but its more drain on my batteries although if I did put in a 24V alternator I could run two auxiliary batteries for the oil system and be independent of the truck system, $ starts being an issue with that one, and the electric pad idea is bound to be the slowest possible way to heat 200 gallons of fluid . The oil pan heating pads are about $150 and seem like the easy way out, but once again a really slow way to heat a large quantity of fluid. The old oil burning heater element ( Breece Burner ) works great but its a semi open flame with a blower and a rather complex device to maintain the fluid level in the burner cup. Not so sure how well it would deal with bouncing down the road, and there's always the sticky issue of fire to consider.
hmmmmmm
Not sure how I want to heat the stuff. Might be worth it to just use the engine coolant in a heat exchanger and buy a new 12V motor. Seems like the cheap way out. A few bills down the drain rather than two or three times that amount in electronics and more batteries.
going to have to think about this one for a while but suggestions are more than appreciated
cheers
B
Yes I could just pick the thing out of the truck and leave it in the backyard but then I wouldn't be able to go more than a few hundred miles without spending on fuel again. I don't really understand what you mean by
cause I'm just trying to get what water there may be in the oil out of it. The centrifuge I think cost $130 ish I guess I wasn't really paying attention when I bought it.
still working on the heating system, my options are to use coolant off the engine, use exhaust off the tail pipe, electric heating pads or spot heater or use this Breese Burner I have laying around.
The engine coolant plan means it would take forever to warm up the oil. The engine exhaust plan would be difficult to control, I'd need a high temp ball valve or two to shunt the exhaust when not needed, and some pretty fancy tailpipe work and a few whopping holes drilled through the bed of the truck bringing the exhaust up through and onto a heat exchanger. The electric heater seems the easiest but its more drain on my batteries although if I did put in a 24V alternator I could run two auxiliary batteries for the oil system and be independent of the truck system, $ starts being an issue with that one, and the electric pad idea is bound to be the slowest possible way to heat 200 gallons of fluid . The oil pan heating pads are about $150 and seem like the easy way out, but once again a really slow way to heat a large quantity of fluid. The old oil burning heater element ( Breece Burner ) works great but its a semi open flame with a blower and a rather complex device to maintain the fluid level in the burner cup. Not so sure how well it would deal with bouncing down the road, and there's always the sticky issue of fire to consider.
hmmmmmm
Not sure how I want to heat the stuff. Might be worth it to just use the engine coolant in a heat exchanger and buy a new 12V motor. Seems like the cheap way out. A few bills down the drain rather than two or three times that amount in electronics and more batteries.
going to have to think about this one for a while but suggestions are more than appreciated
cheers
B
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OK conversion is out = most expensive option
New motor, maybe = $250+, shaft is 1.5" higher and 5/8 instead of the 1/2 I have now, the body is also 3' longer than the one I have, although I could make it fit I"d have fight for it. Would also need a coupler that would deal with the shaft issues.
two new batteries wired in series with a diode bridge preventing them from interacting with the truck 12V system but being charged off the 12V alternator. Might work, am still waiting for a reply from my EE buddy.
cheers
B
New motor, maybe = $250+, shaft is 1.5" higher and 5/8 instead of the 1/2 I have now, the body is also 3' longer than the one I have, although I could make it fit I"d have fight for it. Would also need a coupler that would deal with the shaft issues.
two new batteries wired in series with a diode bridge preventing them from interacting with the truck 12V system but being charged off the 12V alternator. Might work, am still waiting for a reply from my EE buddy.
cheers
B
OK conversion is out = most expensive option
New motor, maybe = $250+, shaft is 1.5" higher and 5/8 instead of the 1/2 I have now, the body is also 3' longer than the one I have, although I could make it fit I"d have fight for it. Would also need a coupler that would deal with the shaft issues.
two new batteries wired in series with a diode bridge preventing them from interacting with the truck 12V system but being charged off the 12V alternator. Might work, am still waiting for a reply from my EE buddy. Costs the least and doesn't involve tearing anything apart. I'm not sure if it would damage the batteries to be charged at 1/2 there rated voltage.
cheers
B
New motor, maybe = $250+, shaft is 1.5" higher and 5/8 instead of the 1/2 I have now, the body is also 3' longer than the one I have, although I could make it fit I"d have fight for it. Would also need a coupler that would deal with the shaft issues.
two new batteries wired in series with a diode bridge preventing them from interacting with the truck 12V system but being charged off the 12V alternator. Might work, am still waiting for a reply from my EE buddy. Costs the least and doesn't involve tearing anything apart. I'm not sure if it would damage the batteries to be charged at 1/2 there rated voltage.
cheers
B
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idi traveler
Full Access Member
Maybe your EE friend can design a simple voltage doubler and keep the 24V motor. You might use an instant heater like the one that Biofarmer93 uses to heat his wmo before the ip.
ya I kinda lucked out on that one
the only thing I need to modify in order to make this system work is to use two batteries on the reserve side and balance the load across the line, otherwise I'd the two bat system in the truck constantly trying to compensate for the potential difference of the single battery reserve and it would damage all the batteries eventually.
should work fine and no chance of improper switching with only a single pole single throw, so its safer.
means I can keep my motor that I planned on so carefully
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the only thing I need to modify in order to make this system work is to use two batteries on the reserve side and balance the load across the line, otherwise I'd the two bat system in the truck constantly trying to compensate for the potential difference of the single battery reserve and it would damage all the batteries eventually.
should work fine and no chance of improper switching with only a single pole single throw, so its safer.
means I can keep my motor that I planned on so carefully
idi traveler
Full Access Member
I was thinking about something early this morning. If you have run the oil through the centrifuge, it wouldn't be WMO anymore, would it? I mean it's nice clean oil after being cleaned to .5 micro, right? So if anybody were to stop you and hassle you about what is in the tank, it's just good clean oil, "hear take a look".
you have a point but I think they require you to be able to prove its clean with a test, I seem to remember reading something along those lines. Basically I'm not to worried about it cause with the farm plates all bets are off and I could be roasting a pig on the hood for fuel and there's nothing they could do about it.
the latest picture
the final configuration does not have the pressure gauge up by the centrifuge
the latest picture
the final configuration does not have the pressure gauge up by the centrifuge
You must be registered for see images attach
So I'm going to test the pump on veggie oil as soon as I get the inverter hooked up. Inverter plan is about $150 cheaper than two new batteries, headlamps and the switch. I'll wait to get the heater installed before I run it through all the filters and the centrifuge. If I have a leak I'd rather it be veggie oil than motor oil.
I decided to go with a solar heater
I'll put up some pics once I get it somewhat done. Its basically just a radiator painted flat black sitting in the sun in line before the filters. It might need a headlamp assist, might not, the Colorado sun is pretty killer. Might put it in a hot box, might not. Will take some experimentation I think
I decided to go with a solar heater
I'll put up some pics once I get it somewhat done. Its basically just a radiator painted flat black sitting in the sun in line before the filters. It might need a headlamp assist, might not, the Colorado sun is pretty killer. Might put it in a hot box, might not. Will take some experimentation I think
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spg
Big Red
What are the part numbers and micron ratings of your 3 filters? Can you run the pump on 12 volts instead of 24?
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