Swapping motors in my 93 F250.

[junk]

Well I've been getting to this point for a while. I have a 1993 F250 truck in my sig that is getting an engine swap. I'm swapping the engine because it burns 1 gal of oil to 120 miles. There is also now a constant blue cloud out the exhaust. Also the DMF is on it's way out. I bought a really good running used engine to swap. I believe the engine I bought had been rebuilt.

I don't want to a dripping pig so I've been resealing everything on the old engine. Oilpan, front/rear main seals, valvecovers, valve stem seals, etc. I also did a water pump and will be swapping over the new fuel system and glow plugs from the old engine.

I also picked up a NOS factory ford turbo for this truck off ebay. I'm also putting in a new exhaust system with 3" downpipe and 4" exhaust. I'll have to modify the factory exhaust outlet to accept the 3" downpipe. The downpipe and exhaust flange are my only real bits of fab on this. Everything else should be bolt in.

Who ever designed the mounting location for the 4 bolts that hold the turbo to the up pipe is a *******. The turbo took probably 2 hours by itself to remove. I wasn't sure I could pull the engine with it still on so I pulled it in the truck.

So far I'm about 6 hours into the actual tear down of my 93 and I have the engine out, turbo off and front drive system off.

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[TWeatherford]

Wow, you got it out with the core support on AND the hood on. I guess the last time I pulled an engine with the core support on, it was with a backhoe so the hood definitely had to come off. Now I prefer to just pull the core support.

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

That's the quickest way to pull them and how I do it as well. Pop the hood springs off and use a cargo strap to pull the hood back far enough to get the cherry picker boom in and out.

 

[Vegas-Misfit]

nice... and you left the trans in... i dont remember the last time i pulled a motor with the trans left in the vehicle... just easier for me to pull the front clip and pull the motor/trans in one sweep

 

[riotwarrior]

nice... and you left the trans in... i dont remember the last time i pulled a motor with the trans left in the vehicle... just easier for me to pull the front clip and pull the motor/trans in one sweep

Ya Ha err frolien I are 100% agreement in POP clip hold hood waaaaay back with 2 straps..safety/redundancy and TONS of room to do all ya need to!

Regardless of how we do it...KUDOS to the OP for his exercise in modern day torture I'm sure that was NO easy task to accomplish! Way TO GO!

Sounds like a nice plan you've got going on there, and while it's out and getting sealed

two things come to mind
NO OIL PAN GASKET, use RTV only!

Reseal the oil cooler whilst apart too!

Good luck and keep pics coming. BTW, now would be ideal time to throw hydro boost on that puppy....

Al

 

[junk]

Yeah Oil cooler was resealed also. Pan was RTV'd. I also did a water pump on the new engine.

If that was torture, maybe I'm tougher than I thought. I didn't think it was bad at all. Came out nice and easy. Worst part about getting this out was pulling the turbo. I didn't see any reason to grab the tranny also. Seems like a lot of extra work and weight. I will say if I'm scrapping the truck things come out differently. Normally the body gets removed for easy access.

Here's a pic of the NOS turbo I picked up. I plan to cut up a used exhaust housing versus this one.

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This is the engine that's going in. It's been power washed a couple times. I don't plan to paint it.

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[junk]

I went out and started swapping parts between the engines tonight. I had a new fuel system on my old engine so I started tearing them down getting ready to swap them. I'm at the point of swapping the injectors, but didn't get them done tonight. I love coming behind and finding others work.

There was two different return line kits on this.

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I don't know if you can see, but the o-rings on the return line caps are completely toast. They are hard and brittle and I sheared part of them off removing the caps.

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Also I need to bust out the torque wrench more. I pulled the bolt cover for the injection pump and the bolts were loose. Problem is I put the pump in last summer/fall. So no one to blame but myself. You can see on this cover where the bolts had been rubbing. Thank goodness the over stopped the bolts from coming all the way out.

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[junk]

My pics worked last night? What's up with this? Lets try these again.

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[icanfixall]

Wow are you ever lucky those three drive bolts didn't shear off. Its amazing but the torque on those three tiny bolts is 25 lbs. They are the same bolt as the rear universal joint bolts and nappa sells them in the u joint repair kits. they are a special hardened bolt. Those are some dirty injecters and some bad looking return line mix and match crap. But it worked for the "other guy". I'm not pleased to see that kind of work or the hose material used for a return line kit. But I guess what works will do as long as the caps are the same size hose barb.

 

[junk]

Yeah I opened that front cover up and about crapped myself. I thought for sure I had those tight, but evidently no tight enough. I thought I looked in my ford IDI turbo supplement manual and it was stating 14ft-lb on those, but 25 sounds better. I definitely don't want those loosening back up.

The injectors are rusty and crusty. Also the mix and matched return system was dumb. They had 1/4" hose on 3/16" fittings. I'm amazed the thing started as good as it did with all the potential leak points.

Any one know anything about Delphi glowplugs? The new engine had Delphi's in it and they looked reasonable. I put a new set of Beru's in.

 

[junk]

Well the new used engine is in the 93 now. I'm working on getting it all finished up. There was a ton of little stuff to get worked up before getting it installed. As it sits it's all bolted in tight to the transmission and crossmember. The turbo is installed on the top side. I still have to finish up the exhaust under neath and get the downpipe figured out. I modified a factory exhaust elbow to use a 3" band clamp. I also need to load out all the accesory drive and then get the coolers reinstalled. I'm hoping to have it running this weekend, but we'll see how it goes. Part of that will depend on if my exhaust kit shows up.

I did end up putting on the new LUK flywheel 3 times. First I didn't put on the transmission adapter on the back of the motor, then I forgot to use the washer plate that goes between the flywheel bolts and the flywheel. 3rd time was a charm.

One we lifted the engine to install it only took about 45 minutes of messing around to get it in the engine compartment and attached to the transmission. Overall I thought that went smooth. One it found the splines and the pilot lined up it slip right into place. We weren't hurrying either. We took out time.

 

[junk]

Ok forgot to ask a couple questions:

Bottom radiator hose. New nose doesn't have the spring - Do I need the spring? Can I take the spring from the old hose?

Coolant? I bought fleetcharge yesterday that come precharged with SCA and meets international B-1 standard. Is that the right stuff?