MNR, at 500K miles, one would expect a lot of blowby. The Cummins might last a bit longer than that though. Acceptable compression on a 6.9/7.3 is anything in the 300-500 range as long as all cylinders are within 25%. As Mel and others stated, the important reading is the difference. You really are supposed to test for compression hot, but that involves burning your fingers quite a bit. It can be done but I'm not sure the difference justifies it. The readings probably would be closer if you drove it then let it cool down to at least a comfortable working temp <100 block and coolant. Still better than having sat a few days!
Well, you guys are making me feel at least
little better about it!
How's this for a plan....
Take the readings for the other bank (driver's side 5-8), then put it all back together, start it up and get it up to temp, shut it down and take another reading off a couple of the cylinders that are easiest to get to and don't require tearing everything apart (like maybe the front one on each side).
I'm thinking that if the 5-8 bank are all with 10% of each other (just like the readings I got for the 1-4 bank) and they are within 10% of the 1-4 bank readings, then the same should still be true when its warmed up, right?
So if the #1 and #8 measure out in the 400 range with the engine warmed up, then I think I can be reasonably confident that I have a failrly accurate picture of what kind of compression they all have, and I should be able to do this without frying my fingers....