Stupid question about FSV

[TNBrett]

How bad are the $50 FSV's?



Rock

I assume that you’re talking about the ones from Amazon. I’ve been running one since early January and have put almost 10k miles on it. I’m only averaging about 12mpg so I’ve put a fair amount of fuel through it. Very early on (I think right away) I noticed one time that it was pulling from both tanks. I switched back and forth a couple of times and it never did it again. I chalk it up to some debris left over from changing the shower heads. I’ve had zero issues since that isolated incident. The one on Amazon used the original connector. It was 100% plug and play.


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[ComatoseLlama]

I assume that you’re talking about the ones from Amazon. I’ve been running one since early January and have put almost 10k miles on it. I’m only averaging about 12mpg so I’ve put a fair amount of fuel through it. Very early on (I think right away) I noticed one time that it was pulling from both tanks. I switched back and forth a couple of times and it never did it again. I chalk it up to some debris left over from changing the shower heads. I’ve had zero issues since that isolated incident. The one on Amazon used the original connector. It was 100% plug and play.


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While we're doing stupid questions, how can you tell if it's pulling from the wrong or both tanks?

 

[TNBrett]

Not really a stupid question, but I fill both tanks and usually start on the front. When I switched to the rear, it was only showing 3/4.


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[Low1gear]

Only the Diesel trucks have a switching valve for the fuel tanks. The gas ones don’t.

 

[Farmer Rock]

Only the Diesel trucks have a switching valve for the fuel tanks. The gas ones don’t.

gas trucks with dual tanks have selector valves too. It's not just the diesels



Rock

 

[Big Bart]

As mentioned above gassers do too. I had a 95 F150 gasser, it had dual tanks, fuel selector switch on the left side of dash (Same as my diesel), and the selector valve under the bed.

My 88 F250 diesel 2wd has dual tanks, the selector switch on the dash, and selector valve between the cab and fuel tank along the frame. As I recall it is not covered up.

My selector valve recently whent bad, will try the Amazon one posted above, tired of having to fill up every 120 miles. Wish Ford still made the one.

 

[Farmer Rock]

I called up napa yesterday to see what they had for FSVs out of curiosity. They had one for $76 and one for like $550. I was definitely not paying for the $550.
I think while I'm at it, I should just relocate the FSV on my truck so it's accessible. I am thinking of making up a single mounting plate for the FSV, water separator, and E pump, so they are all together. Right now my E pump is in the engine compartment and works fine so far, but it takes up a lot of space where it is, and will probably last longer on the frame rail.



Rock

 

[Cubey]

Only the Diesel trucks have a switching valve for the fuel tanks. The gas ones don’t.

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[Cubey]

I called up napa yesterday to see what they had for FSVs out of curiosity. They had one for $76 and one for like $550. I was definitely not paying for the $550.

I think the $550 is 100% plug and play, the $76 is like the one I got from AutoZone, you need to drill new mounting holes, redo the harness, etc.

 

[Farmer Rock]

I think the $550 is 100% plug and play, the $76 is like the one I got from AutoZone, you need to drill new mounting holes, redo the harness, etc.

You are probably right. I do know that both of them have push lock fittings which surprised me. How do you like that valve you bought? I am really considering one of those and change over to regular push lock hose.


Rock

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I think that I could do some wiring and hole drilling in order to save over $400.

 

[Farmer Rock]

I think that I could do some wiring and hole drilling in order to save over $400.

Yes, I agree %100. I am not even considering the $550, I am just going to get the $76 valve from autozone that @Cubey suggested, and mount and wire it in. The drilling is no biggy, since I will probably be making up a bracket to relocate it anyway.



Rock

 

[Cubey]

You are probably right. I do know that both of them have push lock fittings which surprised me. How do you like that valve you bought? I am really considering one of those and change over to regular push lock hose.

I can't say how I like it yet really. I installed it yesterday and drove about 1.5mi round trip with it today. It's not leaking and seems to be working, but that's all I can say. With the engine off and the door open, I can hear it functioning when I flip the switch, even with the noisy Holley Red running. I made sure the ports were working properly before I hooked up all the hoses. I did the wiring first, pulled the fuse for the Holley pump, turned the key to on, and blew through it's supply/return ports to make sure they were open/closed properly in respect to the switch. I put the fuel filters between the tanks and valve like the instructions tell you to do. If you don't, you void the warranty. In theory the wouldn't know/care at the store, but why tempt fait? And if filters keeps them it getting damaged, why the heck not use them?

Here's the post/pic of mine: https://www.oilburners.net/posts/1078958/

 

[chillman88]

I think that I could do some wiring and hole drilling in order to save over $400.

I know I did! When I replaced mine I paid like $65 and it came with a pigtail for wiring.

 

[TNBrett]

The one from Amazon uses the factory connector, so there’s no wiring to do at all. Just plug it in.


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