Stripped injector line or injector?

MtnHaul

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Was just putting on new return lines and have a real problem now with #3. Unscrewing the #3 injector line was VERY tight compared to others but it came off. When going to reinstall #3 line I noticed that it did not want to sit straight on the threads yet that was how they wanted to start while using just fingers to start the threads. Is it possible the last person who worked on that line cross-threaded it but it still sealed? So now the injector line nut/cap? won't tighten enough and fuel leaks--truck isn't driving anywhere now. Obviously something got stripped but I'm not sure if it was the injector threads or the threads on the injector line. I thought I once read that either the injector or the injector line was harder steel than the other. I haven't removed the #3 line to inspect the threads.

Should I order a new line and a new injector? The threads on the injector don't look bad. My current injectors are BB code--is there anything available that would match good enough? Or is it likely the injector line stripped and I can keep the current injector? This is all waaayyy more than I wanted to get into at the moment but here I am. Any tips or comments are appreciated.
 

MtnHaul

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Just checked a couple other injectors and the threads on #3 injector look like the others that function normally, so I'm leaning towards ordering a new #3 injector line and hoping it seals. Anyone know the thread pitch on an injector so I can check the threads with a nut, or maybe borrow a die from my neighbor?
 

IDIBRONCO

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Yes it is possible to cross thread an injector line and have it not leak. You'd have to be pretty ham ****** to cross thread the nut all the way down onto the injector, but it could be done. Usually, the injector threads will strip out first because the ones on the line are made from a harder material. I'm not going to give you advice on what to order. It's your money and you are there to see the threads. Before you order another line, you can remove it from the pump and see how it threads onto a different injector. Be VERY cautious to make sure that the nut on the line is completely clean (use carb or brake cleaner plus compressed air) before you try to thread in onto another injector. I'd hate for you to have to end up buying an injector because you got a piece of metal stuck in your injector by trying my test.
 

ih8minimumwage

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Just checked for you, threads are M12 x 1.5. If it is the injector line threads that are messed up, you might be able to use a thread restorer to straighten them:

Can also cut slots into the correct size Grade 10.9 bolt to make your own restorer if in a pinch.

I've been selling off my spare set of injector lines on eBay. If it turns out you do need #3, that's the only one I have left.
 

MtnHaul

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Installed 1 new injector and replaced injector line with new aftermarket. Old injector threads were boogered pretty good and the threads on the hard line didn't look great either. This is the second aftermarket injector line I've used and although they do fit end-to-end but the bends are not quite the same and it's not possible to use the line clamps with them. Maybe if you just buy the whole aftermarket set then they'll line up so the clamps will fit?
 

Nero

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You'll want to do something about the line clamps. Those are there to isolate the vibrations, so they don't shear off.
 

Minuteman96

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Installed 1 new injector and replaced injector line with new aftermarket. Old injector threads were boogered pretty good and the threads on the hard line didn't look great either. This is the second aftermarket injector line I've used and although they do fit end-to-end but the bends are not quite the same and it's not possible to use the line clamps with them. Maybe if you just buy the whole aftermarket set then they'll line up so the clamps will fit?
I bought some line clamps on eBay for a decent price but the slots in the rubber that went with the new clamps didn’t fit up to my lines, they were too small. I ended up using the old rubber with the new metal clamp. I tried to work it in my head how they could fit maybe after years of being ‘stretched out’ by being clamped on the line but i really think that rubber that came with the new lines just wasn’t going to work. If you need new clamps I’d make my own or pull some from a junkyard.
 

Old Goat

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Prices have really gone up at PNP...but here is a copy of their pricing on Fuel Lines, Injectors, and Injection pumps.
I use to get the whole pump with fuel lines for around $50, now they want $72.99. Item# 370.5

Last time I was there the kid said to go with Item#370 for $50.99 and with the fuel lines.

keep looking at PNP site for 6.9/7.3 IDI`s
Or go to www.row52.com and search for F-250/350 etc for the Diesels.

370FUEL INJECTION DISTRIBUTRCar$50.99$4.99
370-5FUEL INJECTION SPIDER TYPCar$72.99$0.00
371-1FUEL INJECTOR (EACH)Car$7.49$0.99
373-1FUEL LINECar$6.49$0.00

Last time i had the fuel line, IP, gear and gear cover for the same price. Depends who is checking you out though.

Goat
 

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