Stock tow wiring

[5 oclock]

I got a color coded schematic that shows these wires correctly identified by pattern. However my bishko doesn't have a lot about this.. This is the brake controller wiring correct?

The second one with the twizzler tied combination is for brake? I don't know what the last guy was doing. Did it come tied like that? Lol

Does anyone know of a site for these old connectors that's easy to use and trustworthy?

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[Big Bart]

I like the exposed wires!

Twisted pair wires are usually to reduce signal interference from and to a component or sensor. (Like a electric brake magnet or crank position sensor.) No harm in doing it but can wreak havoc when spec and not done.

Let’s see if someone has a wiring diagram for you. Although brake controllers tend to use the same number of wires they don’t all use the same connectors or position. Depending on year, make, model you may have to hook up power for the electric brakes and use the right fuse. Perhaps a previous owner already did. As trucks progressed Ford starting putting in wiring, then fuses, to now the entire controller ready to go.

What’s your vintage and model?

I am a big fan of using trailer light kits that plug into your factory tail light harnesses and running to a water resistant terminal box you attach to the frame or bed, then wire from there to a 7pin on hitch or bumper. VS cutting, crimping, splicing, or tapping into factory wire and starting new issues down the road. E-trailer is a good one stop shop or with some searching Amazon can get it done.

 

[franklin2]

I agree, searching out and trying to use the factory tow wiring can be a effort in frustration. Ford tended to use the same wiring methods and same colors through many years, except the trailer tow. For some reason they seemed to change this wiring each year, so it's very hard to keep up with.

Like was said, you can use the existing wiring for your rear lights for the trailer lighting. And then you only need to run one blue wire from the brake controller under the dash, out and along the frame, to the trailer plug for the brakes. If you want a trailer charge wire, you will have to run that too, but then that's it except the power for the controller itself.

 

[chillman88]

For what it's worth, that twisted pair is most likely your VSS wire from the rear axle. Yes, it is twisted like that from the factory.

 

[franklin2]

When they twist wires like that, it is for noise rejection. The input to the electronics has a special "differential" type input, both inputs are above ground. The input recognizes the voltage difference on the two wires, and not any voltages that are on both wires the same. So they twist the wires so any noise hitting the wires will hopefully hit both wires equally. So the input will naturally reject the noise, since it only recognizes the voltage difference on the two wires. And voltages that are the same on the two wires will be rejected.

 

[5 oclock]

After reading th comments and tracing them back he used them to tie in to a 5th wheel in bed connector. However he did it sloppy and the outlet is no good from years of the sun beating the plastic. I'll have to replace that down the road.

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[Big Bart]

5 oclock,

What I use now on both truck and trailer side is a wiring junction box. Then run the lighting wiring in, a fused battery connection in, and trailer brake wiring in. (Now all my wiring accessible in one place, secured, good connections, and water tight.) Then run two pre-made cables out to the bed for 5th wheel and bumper/hitch for ball trailer. (Similiar set up for the trailer.)

Junction box

https://www.amazon.com/MICTUNING-Wa...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=


Cables - Found these somewhere 6 ft with no male connector on other end. Could buy these and cut to length, strip, put on connectors, secure in your junction box.

https://www.amazon.com/Leisure-Cord...trailer+connector+cable&qid=1622482442&sr=8-6

Not sure of your trucks age but use a factory light tap like this. Simply and clean. Plug and play, no taps, no tape, no fuss, no muss.

https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-4012...4-667------------&vehicleName=1990+Ford+F-250


Then when you need to replace the trailer light connector, its very easy, no guessing, no tape to cut, no wires getting cut or damaged. Unscrew, re-screw, replace the connector harness, and your off.

Want to go next level pick up one of these!

https://www.amazon.com/Innovative-P...s=Trailer+light+tester&qid=1622482990&sr=8-29

https://www.amazon.com/Tekonsha-801...s=Trailer+light+tester&qid=1622483043&sr=8-16

 

[5 oclock]

Bradd.

I appreciate the input. All of that sounds awesome. I am definitely going to grab your links! Anything to simplify things.

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[Big Bart]

It will also improve the reliability and longevity!

Feel free to ping me if you have any questions.

Send some pics and let us know how it goes!