Sticks at 1500rpms and Black smoke when pulling my tractor

Suleiman Saadeh

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94 7.3 idi

When I'm pulling my ditch witch (about 5k lbs), my truck accelerates fine but once it gets into 2nd or 3rd gear once the rpms hits 1500 it's kinda stays there but slowly rises unless I give it more fuel but then a lot of black smoke comes out the exhaust.

It wont do it if I baby it and accelerate modestly but if I try to get up to speed it pumps out smoke. Doesnt shift hard, and when I get to the last gear it doesnt smoke at all.

I recently put in a Pensacola IP and set of injectors. I never pulled anything before that so I have nothing to compare to but I dont think it was doing this when I first started pulling this tractor.

Could i be getting too much fuel through the injectors not being the right pressure?
 

Oledirtypearl86

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Black smoke is in burnt fuel I'd say you to much fuel but at 1500 rpm you should be building power. Are you turboed ? And what's your fuel pressure at? And how's your air cleaner? All Thea's play into power vs smoke thease motors are huge air pumps air+fuel= power but fuel>air =black smoke hope that makes sense
 

Garbage_Mechan

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Sorry to say it but telling us you have a Pensacola pump and now you have problems it about the same as saying I hit my thumb with a hammer and now it hurts.......
However.... assumptions are the mother of all diagnostic errors. So before assuming anything start by hooking up a fuel pressure gauge while towing a load.
Has the timing been set with a meter?
 

Suleiman Saadeh

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I appreciate the explanation, I understand the fuel to air ratio needs to be right and that's why I replaced the filter and thought maybe the injectors were putting out too much.

Air filter in a couple months old and I had the injectors pop tested at Deisel Parts of the Carolinas here in Wilmington, NC and they told me the injectors were putting out 1600psi I believe when they are supposed to put out around 1900-2075.

No turbo. Could the IP be putting out too much fuel or something?

It does not do it once I get up to the last gear. Also my engine bay caught fire a while back

Also the guy told me something along the lines that the injectors were spraying too soon or something like that or not at the correct time while hooked to his machine.

I am gonna trade this into them for some that are supposed to spray the correct pressure and are tested by them.
 

Suleiman Saadeh

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My other thought was my engine bay caught fire a while back and the hose for the air filter was obviously warped some. Could the hose pictured allow a lack of air flow?

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stealth13777

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If the hose collapses when you give it a lot of gas I suppose it’s possible, but that hose as it sits wouldn’t be the issue. The intake piece it connects to isn’t messed up restricting flow is it? Although if it didn’t act this way post fire but pre fuel system work, then none of this was/is an issue.

What was touched between when it worked fine and now that it doesn’t? Why were those things done? (Injectors and pump for example)
 

IDIBRONCO

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The slight disfigurement of the air intake hose shouldn't affect the amount of air coming into the air cleaner. The pop pressure of 1600PSI is low, not absolutely horrible, but still low. If the pop pressure is off, this is basically the same thing as spraying too soon. If they are spraying too soon, then they will not be spraying at the correct time so both of those statements are correct. I believe that if they spray, fire, pop off (etc.) at too low of pressure, then they will not atomize the fuel as well as it should be and this will slow down the rate at which it burns. If the fuel burns slow enough, It will not burn completely and will be pushed out of the cylinder as black smoke. Is this the entire problem? Maybe not, but it's for sure a big part of it.
 

Suleiman Saadeh

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Jeff at deisel parts told me they atomized correctly for the most part but a few of them kinda peed as he put it but after a few pumps of fuel they sprayed correctly but not at the correct pressure. I'm gonna swap out my injectors for theirs on friday and see what happens.

@stealth13777

Short story is my truck caught fire twice due to chain reaction of belt braking, before that and after I got it running after that I had been having a No/hard start hot due to IP seizing when hot after it turned the truck off for 20-30 minutes.

One day it was seized and I had to be somewhere and was trying to crank it and my neighbor came over with starting fluid and that led to head gaskets being blown.

Found out cool water would unseize it, used ice cold water out a cooler which I think may have been why shortly there after a seal went out and dumped fuel into the oil.

After I found that out I parked it till I figured out thanks to the great people on here ( @IDIBRONCO and many more), I bought the pump and injectors from pensacola. Put them in and then found out the head gasket needed replacing.

Did all of the above now it runs pretty well especially without pulling but this issue I'm currently having which I dont believe was happening before.
 

Suleiman Saadeh

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I've always been mechanically inclined but never knew much about vehicles expect how to change basic parts.

I've had a crash course in what not to do and what to do to fix and diagnose a 7.3 idi.

I had never done any interior engine work till this and pulled the heads and changed them by hand, so I'm on a mission to make sure this truck gets and stays right
 

chillman88

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Did you get the timing set when you installed the injection pump?
 

Suleiman Saadeh

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No I didnt know that I needed to do that because I was told if I took the cover over the gear that the IP bolts to then it would be out of timing.

I never removed it so I I thought it wouldn't effect the timing
 

chillman88

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Well.. Kinda.

The IP can rotate side to side when the three nuts that hold the pump to the housing. This is your timing adjustment. It needs to be set with a meter for the injectors to fire at the right time. Personally I would have this done before you replace the injectors, you might find it runs enough better that you don't need to replace them.

There's a timing registry thread on here, you might find someone close with a meter. If you don't know what I mean I can post more after work.
 
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