Starting procedure

[TNBrett]

It’s also worth noting that it’s possible for the cold idle speed solenoid to be working, but be adjusted in such a way that it isn’t doing anything.

 

[themechanicalford]

1) Not sure about the gurgling. To me it’s more of the the truck won’t start the first turn or starts and dies once or twice, then runs fine. That is when I feel I have air intrusion.
2) Was it the o-rings on the fuel lines to the lift pump or the return lines? If return lines they could be leaking again, especially if just the o-rings and not the caps and inter fuel lines. Or it has been 2-3 years ago. Often you can tell because the diesel seeps and makes the area wet ant it starts to collect dust and dirt.
3) I have not looked for Youtube videos, but take a look for both the idle soleniod and IP advance soleniod. You can physically see the idle solenoid, add 12+ and you can see it extend if you move the throttle back out of its way. If it does not move when you add +12v it is not working. I don’t recall if you can see the IP advance working. I have not looked for parts since mine are working but try O’Rielly’s, Ford, and Rock Auto. If not check with some of the IP rebuilders discussed on this site like Russ and Mel.
4) I have bought Motorcraft GP‘s from both O’Riellys and Rock Auto. ~$10 ea.

Let us know how it goes and post some pics.

Will do bud, thanks for all the help!

 

[themechanicalford]

It’s also worth noting that it’s possible for the cold idle speed solenoid to be working, but be adjusted in such a way that it isn’t doing anything.

That’s interesting. Last winter she would sound like a bag of hammers (as someone here put it) which I think is indicative of it working correct? Maybe it either broke over the summer or is mis-adjusted.

 

[Farmer Rock]

That clanky sound is the timing advance coming on, not the high idle solenoid.



Rock

 

[themechanicalford]

That clanky sound is the timing advance coming on, not the high idle solenoid.



Rock

Oh right, good point. Well it’s neither idling high nor clanking anymore. I don’t think the high idle has worked since I’ve owned it but the timing advance did last year.

 

[Farmer Rock]

If you're feeling ambitious, you might try checking all your wires on the engine. I have had one of the sender wires get fried in the looming, and cause a short. The result was no working timing advance or fast idle.
That looming is a pain to open up.

Rock

 

[Noiseydiesel]

Gurgling? You say your truck is a turkey? Goggle Gobble. . .?
Might go away after a day of driving under the new radiator cap.
Air in the cooling system going through the heater core. New cap and reaching op temp should purge it out.

 

[Big Bart]

That’s interesting. Last winter she would sound like a bag of hammers (as someone here put it) which I think is indicative of it working correct? Maybe it either broke over the summer or is mis-adjusted.

Yes clatter or bag of hammers is good to hear at start up.

1) Start with Farmer Rocks suggestion and see if the coolant switch at the front of the engine gets +12v power with the key on. (Test light or volt meter.). If no power, test the fuse, then start to trace back to the coolant sensor if you have a short.

2) Then see if the coolant switch has continuity between the prongs. It should have continuity and allow power between the terminals when the engine is under 120*. Then break the connection between 120-140*.(Turn both solenoids off when hot.)

3) Then test for power at the fast idle solenoid. When it has power and you move the throttle(It won’t push your throttle out of the way, just hold it out further when you move the throttle. You have to set it like some of the chokes on a old gasser.). You should see it extend as you move the throttle off idle and hold the throttle slightly more out when you release the throttle. To TNBrett’s point it may need to just be adjusted to push out a little further if it is moving under power but not holding the throttle off idle a little. With the so,Enid extended set your idle to 750-800rpm to smooth out a cold engine from idling rough and help it warm up.

4) Then test for power at the IP advance solenoid. So you can hear that bad of hammers in the morning.

Sounds like you might have a bad coolant sensor or as Farmer Rock suggests no power on the circuit. But if your timing is off, the truck will not clatter much when the advance is on. As our injectors wear out, our timing changes.(The injectors pop earlier as the springs tire/wear out.). Thus the timing may be 11.5* BTDC 40,000 miles later when it was first set to 8.5*. But over time with the vibration and pulling of the injector lines the IP can move slightly. A tired IP might also effect timing. (Slightly slower to make pressure.)

Let us know what you find and attach some pics.