Squeak from front wheel - not spinning freely

[RSchanz]

Sunday, when driving, after coming down a steep grade and using the brakes I hit traffic and started traveling at about 5mph. During this I heard a pretty loud squeak that came from what seemed like the front drivers side wheel. It lasted for about 5 minutes and when I started going faster it went away. I didn't hear it again for the rest of the drive. This morning I jacked the front end up and checked for wobble in both front wheels suspecting that maybe the wheel bearings were going. There wasn't really any wobble in either wheel but the wheels did not spin very freely. It sounded like the pads were rubbing on the rotors but could it be something else? Wheels stuck to spindle? I know despite not having wobble the bearings could still be shot, but it was the same on both wheels, wouldn't even spin one full rotation without stopping itself. For reference it's a 4x4 and they are manual locking front hubs.

I brought it to a mechanic for a once over last week and he said he checked the brakes and just mentioned that the front pads were wearing unevenly... not too worried about that. I suppose it could be possible he over torqued the wheels?

 

[Scotty4]

Do the calipers slide freely? Were they greased on the portion where it slides?

 

[RSchanz]

I’ll take the wheel off tonight and check this. This would ***** whether they’re over torqued right?

I haven’t greased anything, not sure about the mechanic but I doubt it. When I take the wheel off I’ll grease it. White lithium? Where exactly would you apply it? Obviously you wouldn’t want grease on the rotor

 

[Scotty4]

No. I don't have a good photo, I'll find something here in a minute. But to install, the top of the caliper slides up into a grove while the bottom is then pushed onto the rotor and then held in place with a rectangular plate and one bolt thru the plate. This is to allow the caliper to have play and not stick. These conact areas need to be cleaned really well and greased before reinstalling.

 

[Scotty4]

Check this out:

https://www.oilburners.net/threads/evening-out-double-piston-calipers.87244/#post-1048097

Should check out the spring clip.

 

[RSchanz]

Check this out:

https://www.oilburners.net/threads/evening-out-double-piston-calipers.87244/#post-1048097

Should check out the spring clip.

Interesting. I’m hoping this is it and I’m assuming the mechanic was unaware of this. I wonder if this continues to prove the point that unless you have a great mechanic that you really trust, they tend to make more issues every time they work on stuff.

 

[RSchanz]

Took the wheels off of both sides tonight and they looked like this. I don't see that bolt or "key" and it doesn't exactly look like the images from that thread that was shared. I understand that basically that rusty pin if you will needs to be pinched, pushed through, lubricated and then re-inserted right? Obviously as you can see it hasn't been lubricated in a very long time. I will say that the passenger side wheel spun about half a spin and with a similar amount of force the drivers side spun about 1 full rotation - it definitely spun more freely. You could hear where it would rub which I'm assuming was making the squeak that day when I was going slow after coming down the grade. Maybe the rotor expanded under the heat and made the situation worse?

All of that said, I'm wondering if it's really worth removing this to lube it before driving another 2k miles? I can imagine this will put more wear on the rotors and pads more or less forcing me to replace them which I'm planning to do anyways. I feel like if I pull that pin out and lube it I might as well be replacing the pads and rotors at that point. Not to mention if I start trying to work that out to lubricate it I'm afraid I may create more than a couple of evenings of work and might end up having to wait on new parts.

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[Philip1]

It is worth greasing the pins now. If you do you will want to use brake specific grease because regular axle and chassis grease cannot handle the heat. There is the pin on top (which you circled) and a sliding surface on the bottom that will both need greased. Depending on how worn out the pads are it might be worth just replacing since you will be taking them completely apart anyway. You will also want to clean any rust on the sliding surfaces as well.

 

[RSchanz]

It is worth greasing the pins now. If you do you will want to use brake specific grease because regular axle and chassis grease cannot handle the heat. There is the pin on top (which you circled) and a sliding surface on the bottom that will both need greased. Depending on how worn out the pads are it might be worth just replacing since you will be taking them completely apart anyway. You will also want to clean any rust on the sliding surfaces as well.

The bottom looks identical to the top so just another pin, I don't believe it's any different. Same procedure if thats the case? I picked up Sta-Lube disc brake caliper grease (permatex was sold out). Won't do the pads this time because I'm doing a trip to Utah Friday. Unevenly wearing but plenty left on them. That will be a job for when I return.

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[Philip1]

If they are the same, the procedure would then be identical from top to bottom.

 

[RSchanz]

If they are the same, the procedure would then be identical from top to bottom.

Haha I know it seems obvious but I'm half dense when it comes to working on trucks so I have to be pretty cut and dry. Working on learning!

 

[chillman88]

Yeah they're pretty easy, if you can, I'd grab a new set of pins, they're cheap and the new ones won't be all rusty. They just tap out with a hammer and punch, but depending on how rusty they are might take a little effort.

Then just pop the caliper off and run a wire brush over the sliding surfaces before greasing them and putting them back together. Again, just tap the pins in with a hammer.

 

[RSchanz]

Yeah they're pretty easy, if you can, I'd grab a new set of pins, they're cheap and the new ones won't be all rusty. They just tap out with a hammer and punch, but depending on how rusty they are might take a little effort.

Then just pop the caliper off and run a wire brush over the sliding surfaces before greasing them and putting them back together. Again, just tap the pins in with a hammer.

The local Napa says I need to buy a whole new caliper so I think when I get around to putting on new rotors and pads I'll buy replacement pins over the internet.

 

[chillman88]

The local Napa says I need to buy a whole new caliper so I think when I get around to putting on new rotors and pads I'll buy replacement pins over the internet.

That's stupid. Napa used to be good, seems like they're no better than the competition anymore....

 

[chillman88]

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