Spare gallon can o' vacuum?

[BioFarmer93]

Well, if the cruise control is all it supplies spare vacuum for then I am much reassured, 'cause the cruise, the windows and the wipers only work about 50% the time anyway (the 50% where I'm holding a little "start" pressure against the key). My next project (obviously) is to replace the ignition switch on the steering column. I'm into uncharted waters here, guys... I know I can do anything I put my mind to.. but I've heard too many horror stories about steering column electrical work and special tools, and I'm a little intimidated. Not to mention that the local stealer er, I mean dealer wants a little over $400 to do it for me. Anyone here done this particular thing before? Did it hurt?

 

[LCAM-01XA]

I'm on the same train of thought as M.L.S.C. in the fact that the Can 'o vacuum is there to support the cruise control, says so in my Ford '86 Light Truck Chassis Service Manual.

Yeps, and actually if you start tracing vacuum lines you'd notice there is a one-way valve in the canister head that only allows the cruise to use the stored vacuum - that cruise sure is a selfish *******, lol.

I may stand corrected (right now I sit corrected)...it all it does is smooth out the cruise I would gladly switch to full electronic servos and free up the space.

I still think we should say it operates the brakes...it gives justification for the wife to let me go to hydroboost....when she hears her life hangs on the reliability of a 20yr old spray painted coffee can I wll get a quick green light =)

I dunno if I'd wanna switch to all electronic... heck I'm working on a way of bypassing the PCM for the E4OD, ending up with full manual shifting and only relays, switches, and resistors to power up the solenoid pack Abut the 20-y-o vac can tho, I think this guy is more on the right track:

If I showed my wife the 20yr old coffee can, she wouldn't ride in my truck ever again!

regardless of what others may say:

Its all how you put it. Trust me on this.

I believe the brake booster is it's own vacuum reservoir... I think that 90 degree plastic connector between the vacuum line and the booster is a check valve, if I'm not mistaken... (which I often times am)

That is correct, the fitting is a check valve, and the booster is its own reservoir. Tho honestly, I'd feel a whole lot safer with a straight-through fitting, and a 5-gal vacuum tank inline before the booster

 

[timothyr1014]

I dont mind all electronic when I build it myself....its nice when you know all of the weak spots going in so that when something stops working you know right where to look

Although with as many engines as I have built, the drawing car to the idi was the fact that it only requires one wire to run....

 

[BioFarmer93]

MLSC- I've got elec goodies sitting there too- (now). I really like the cold air intake, I think I would spray paint mine black though. When you paint yours black, definitely go with the yellow rings for the bumble bee effect-! I want to do the same thing, so don't think for an instant that I'm making fun of you- however that intake runs right smack dab through where my second alternator sits. I have been trying to think of an alternate routing, but the only thing I can come up with is a baffled port in the wheel well....

 

[opusd2]

Well, if the cruise control is all it supplies spare vacuum for then I am much reassured, 'cause the cruise, the windows and the wipers only work about 50% the time anyway (the 50% where I'm holding a little "start" pressure against the key). My next project (obviously) is to replace the ignition switch on the steering column. I'm into uncharted waters here, guys... I know I can do anything I put my mind to.. but I've heard too many horror stories about steering column electrical work and special tools, and I'm a little intimidated. Not to mention that the local stealer er, I mean dealer wants a little over $400 to do it for me. Anyone here done this particular thing before? Did it hurt?

I've cracked open more than a few steering columns in my time, and by far the scariest was one that belonged to a Chrysler LeBaron that is now holding the grass down and providing electronic parts and fasteners to various projects I have. But other than that (which was due to a failed part) it was never as hard as I had expected, with a couple of specialty tools purchased. Like the one that looks like a screwdriver with a metal loop which holds back the column to pull a clip off to release a plate covering the column. Sorry if that sounds confusing, I've been told I'd make a rotten teacher since I'd rather do the work anyway. My point is that a few specialty tools can make a tough looking job a little less work.

 

[Agnem]

The vacuum can will NOT provide any vacuum for brakes application PERIOD! It is there only for the cruise control operation, I'd imagine it makes it operate smoother or something. The HVAC system of these trucks has no vacuum reserve canister, unless you're like me and added one yourself to somewhat alleviate the issues that come with a weak vacuum pump until you find a replacement for the pump. That said, I did move my factory vacuum canister, I needed the space for relays and wiring for my lights - I will take a pic of where I put the can, it works great there.

X2. Trucks without vacuum cruise do not have one. If you watch your vacuum gauge (you know... the one you installed on your dash, because I've been telling people for years that they need one, just like oil pressure and water temp.. ) you will see how much vacuum that cruise eats up, and how without the can, there would be no way for speed to be maintained.

 

[opusd2]

Exactly. Thats why every vehicle I own, gas or diesel, has extra cans for operating systems. On one gas truck, I have a reservoir large enough to offset the lumpy RV cam I run. It's a FORD 360 with 2bbl, it needs any help it can get.

 

[BioFarmer93]

Thanks Opus, that was almost reassuring! Guess I will start looking into what is needed and what steps to take. I joined AllData DIY, but I can't say I'm real happy with their format.. It's very minimalist and not real handy to navigate, but if you dig long enough you usually can find part of the answer- and then to OILBURNERS to get it clarified!

 

[SparkandFire]

Is there a way to redo the cruise without the vacuum servo? My cruise works a little, then quits. I think it might be vacuum related (and per Mel's advice, I am installing a vac. gauge this weekend!)

Is there a simple swap to install an electronic system?

My big wonderful dream is to one day rid my truck of the belt driven vacuum pump, install hydroboost braking, and run a small electric vacuum pump to control the HVAC and tranny...

 

[Agnem]

I had a problem with my vaccuum cruise servo on the Moosestang, and it was my guage that first informed me of the issue. As the problem got worse, it was easy to see that the cruise was slowly killing my ability to stop as well. Swapped out the vacuum servo, and that fixed it.

 

[sle2115]

And here they are - first general location of relocated canister

And you even painted it yellow so it's easy for us to see!

Very nice looking, clean installation, I like it...although I'm not a big fan of the coffee can resevoirs as around here they rust out pretty quick (think they are thicker than the firewall though) but I like how you made use of wasted space.

 

[SparkandFire]

I have a spare vacuum servo, and a spare controller.

PO had a switch in the column replaced a few years ago.

I'm going to do some parts swapping this weekend after I get the vacuum gauge installed.

Thanks, Mel!

Sorry for the thread hijackage!

 

[The Warden]

Seeing the relocated coffee can has me wondering....how feasible would it be to re-locate it out of the engine compartment altogether? Maybe put it under the cab or something? I can't imagine any way it would hang below the frame unless someone mounted it that way, and the extra space in the engine compartment would be nice.

Another thought would be to snag a vacuum reservoir off a Mercedes. They have a pretty big reservoir (to operate the vacuum-powered door locking system), but it's plastic, short height-wise, and long....they mounted it above the fuel tank and below the hat rack. It would give you more capacity, also.

Hmm....gears are grinding in my head now

 

[LCAM-01XA]

BioFarmer, I thought about painting the intake ducting, but shiny aluminum reflects engine bay heat better than black paint, so in the interest of keeping the cold air cold till it actually reaches the intake plenum shiny with no paint works better. That, and this thing vibrates pretty good, so I'm not sure how long the paint will stay on... You did mention a 2nd alternator - what is that for, and how do you have it wired up? My single 130-amp 3G unit cannot keep up with my lights, just running the low beams and the overheads and the rear/ditch floods (90W+400W+310W=800W) I have to hit at least 1500 rpms before the alt starts keeping up with the power demand, a second alternator would come handy for those moments...

SparkAndFire, I personally wouldn't get rid of the vacuum pump, it could serve as a great counter-pulley for the engine when you floor it - I have a short alt belt (it don't flap like the factory one), so even with the A/C and P/S belts beastly tight as the crankshaft spins up real fast the belts starts slipping a bit and screaming bloody murder, losing the A/C tho and transferring the belt over to the vacuum pump (the short belt that drives it off the alt is discarded) took care of the issue quite nicely. Granted, I don't run over 3000 rpms too often, but it's nice to know I can run against the governor with the belts staying quiet.

Sle2115, I'm from north of you, we got the rusting issue even worse - oddly enough this canister don't have even traces of rust on it! As for the paint color, well my engine fan is the same, now that I did in hopes of not getting slapped through the hands as often, haha!

Warden, I don't see any functional issue associated with relocating the can under the cab - as long as your hoses are good, you should be set. In my old Lincoln TC the coffee can rusted through like Sle2115 said, so instead of replacing it with another tin can I installed a plastic canister off a newer Panther-chassis car, IIRC it was a Crown Vic but really any '92-up Ford CV, Lincoln TC, or Mercury GMQ will have that. That canister ain't too big, tho if your vacuum pump is good I don't see any issue with running a small canister, like Mel said the cruise does use up lots of vacuum but so do brakes, and if the pump can keep up with the brakes it should be able to handle the cruise through a small canister...

 

[02AutoWag]

From what I gather reading these posts, this coffee can is the cause for my small cruise control issue. Can someone confirm or deny my thoughts here...

Once I activate the cruise control at 70MPH, the truck will drop down 3-4 MPH before it begins to climb back to the desired setpoint. My other truck would hold speed immediately, not this one. I'm guessing I have a hole in the canister or cracked hoses that are bleeding the canister, hence the lack of initial cruise control. Then the vacuum pump turns on and is able to overcome whatever leak I do have...correct?