sound dampening on your old truck

[IDIoit]

i just did a ton of work on my truck, and alot more in the near future!

now im almost at the point to put this thing back together for road use.
what have you guys done to insulate the cab better?
i want to make this truck as comfortable as i can, i even thought about spraying construction foam
into the pillars and the rest of the "dead space"

 

[cpdenton]

Used some stuff from Home Depot called frost king. Self adhesive 1/8th inch foam with a foil backing. Works pretty good too. Put it under my new carpet and things are quite live able in there. Helped with down pipe heat quite a bit even before the new carpet.

3 rolls covered my boring old 4 door crew cab. 20 bucks a roll.

 

[lotzagoodstuff]

+1 on the foil backed big box store insulation. FatMat and other stereo marketing sound dampeners probably work better, but I've used the foil stuff on several projects and I think it works really well at far lower cost.

 

[cpdenton]

This is a link to what I used.

http://m.homedepot.com/p/Frost-King...ck-Foam-Foil-Duct-Insulation-FV516/100028603/

 

[smolkin]

What about inside the doors? Santa gave me some new speakers for the doors and was wondering if a layer of Frost King inside would make a difference. Gonna have them apart anyway, anyone tried it? And would you want to put it on the out-side skin or in-side?

 

[hce]

Take a look at this site it at least worth reading.

 

[BDCarrillo]

Roll asphalt with a foil backing is the closest cheap thing to dynamat. It's dense, applies easily, and works pretty damn well. I did up a car with it and ran 4 10" subs at 1kw RMS... no rattle whatsoever.

 

[IDIoit]

Before i decided to post this thread, i was about to drop 200 bucks on 100 sf of fatmat/dynamat... glad i didnt!

This is a link to what I used.

is there any adhesive on this?
i want to do the roof, altho the roof bracing will help hold it, im sure i will need to get it to adhear some how, maybe spray glue?

What about inside the doors? Santa gave me some new speakers for the doors and was wondering if a layer of Frost King inside would make a difference. Gonna have them apart anyway, anyone tried it? And would you want to put it on the out-side skin or in-side?

first of all, SANTA HAS NOT STARTED HIS ROUNDS YET! and if he did without telling me, ole chris cringle is gonna get slapped with one of his reindeer! lol
i would not attempt to insulate the inside of the door, i can barley get my hands in there to push a few dents out.
and if it came unglued, it could mess up the operation of the window

 

[cpdenton]

Yes. It is self adhesive. Pretty sticky too.

 

[icanfixall]

I used the Fat Mat. So did Darrin. He is the member I copied. I used 2 layers of it on the floor and the walls of my crewcab. As for the doors I placed it ob the skin just under the door panels. I found the rear wall make the most difference in sound deadening. Allpy it on a warm day.

 

[stealth13777]

I can't speak for using it yet, but on my list of 'wants' is some stuff lmc sells. I believe a kit for the whole cab floor runs $50, with an optional second layer. They have some generic rolls too but don't recall the price. Worth at least looking at what they've got


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[jim_22]

I love my noisy IDI truck. Are you guys putting lipstick on a pig?

 

[dunk]

I would not be putting any sort of expanding foam anywhere. That stuff is for dry areas in structures, not metal in a vehicle. Even if you never get water intrusion into that cavity the foam will hold condensation in and rot out anywhere you put it. Ever work on a fiberglass boat? Oh it's fiberglass it'll never rot! The whole under floor area is filled with foam and the stringers and floor are wood. The foam holds water and they rot. Every wood stringer boat will need a stringer job whether the owner knows it or not. Solution is rip it all out and rebuild it with no foam and a better layup. Keeps the wood sealed and the water that gets in can get out. Do not foam your truck!

Dynamat or similar and even the box store adhesive foam insulation rolls are fine. They will make a noticeable difference and not cause issues. Don't fill the doors. Just pull off your falling apart factory plastic or paper "insulation" and put some self adhesive insulating foam roll on there, cut holes just big enough for handle/window regulator/speakers. To the naysayers, if you want to hear your truck just crack the window. For an off road or mud truck this is obviously a no go for the floor as you'll want a hosable interior that won't hold water and rot out when you get water halfway up the cab. You guys know better and have a bare painted floor or bedliner.

 

[IDIoit]

No foam in any of my boats. But closed cell foam is supposedly waterproof.