SOB...

[HammerDown]

Like I need this crapola...just went to move the truck, cranks fine I hear the FSV clicking but it seems like no fuel is getting to the injectors
Further inspection tomorrow after I cool off.
Anyone know what terminals @ the fender mounted solenoid I need to jump for a remote starter? As I'll need to crank it while pressing the schreader valve on the filter head.

 

[nyteshades]

Should be the the two big ones, if I recall correctly.

 

[gonecrazyi]

Put a wrench over the two big terminals and have at it. I have a push button that I hook up when I need to do it to mine. Makes it a lot easier and doesnt create any sparks under the hood.

 

[zpd307]

anytime i have remote cranked the engine, i put a wire from the battery to the small middle terminal on the fender solenoid. i would think your starter remote would have to have awfully thick cable, just like the battery cables, if you were to jump both side of the solenoid.

 

[plywood]

anytime i have remote cranked the engine, i put a wire from the battery to the small middle terminal on the fender solenoid. i would think your starter remote would have to have awfully thick cable, just like the battery cables, if you were to jump both side of the solenoid.

Yeah, that's more like it.

You can get a remote start from HF for like $8.00 and save your terminals.

Although, on these trucks they do have two solenoids so jumping the two big ones on the fender mount solenoid isn't really taking the grunt of the starter, it is providing powering to what looks like a 10ga wire so up to maybe 30 amps.

 

[Slade]

Use your remote starter form the hot side of the solenoid to the small terminal in the center with the wires on it

 

[vegas39]

Yeah, thats what I do too. Run a wire from the batt pos to the solenoid on the fender. I pull the wire off that comes from the key and touch the wire there.

 

[HammerDown]

Heading out now...just wondering if the lift pump could have taken a crap that quick > usually they weep prior to going bad.
Here goes nothing.

 

[HammerDown]

Now What...?
1)Fuel getting to filter w/cranking
2)No fuel to injectors when cranking
3)Both wires to FSV getting power with key in run position(test light)
4)FSV makes a solid 'click' when key is turned

NOTE...I tapped the side of the FSV and it started...is this a sign it's failing?

 

[vegas39]

I would say something in that mechanism is hanging up under the cover. I hate pulling the covers off of those pumps for fear of not getting it on right and having a runaway!

It's possible that the solenoid is weak and not moving the arm as far as it needs to, or the arm itself is hanging up on something.

 

[sootman73]

check the voltage going to FSV. a test light may show power but if its a bad connection somewhere or you aren't getting 12 volts that might affect the actuation of the solenoid...

 

[icanfixall]

We only need 9 volts to activate the solenoid... After these simple motors are running thats all we really need other than fuel to keep them running forever...

 

[HammerDown]

Thanks for the above replies...
This IP is original from 1988 > Baby Moose rebuild > last year.
This is also the first time the FSV stuck.
Should I consider it a fluke or...think about installing another and, where would I get one and is it difficult to R&R ?

 

[Shaguardriver]

FSV = _______ I am slow

 

[HammerDown]

FSV = _______ I am slow

Fuel shutoff valve...this little item sits atop the IP with two wires connected. When the key is 'on' it sends current to the FSV to open (you'll hear a solid 'click' opening the valve/plunger) and allows fuel to enter the IP > making all kinds of pressure to feed the injectors.
When the key is turned off...the FSV stops fuel to the IP and the engine dies.