So what did you do with your truck today?

[Danielle]

Still a mystery.

I got a bit over 100 for the compression. Stihl says 90 to 110 for their saws...

I'm going to try just removing the carb, getting the carb, and fuel lines all cleaned up. And then some fresh gas.

On edit.

Clamped the throttle open, then cranked it a bunch of times.... And got 125. So it may be a little high, even. But I've seen a bunch of guys saying 120-125 is normal. So I'll go with it.

Got the saw running. It ran a little while, then died, when it got warm.

Looks like I need to figure out a way to keep the throttle open, when I am cranking, to get it started.

Going to work on fuel delivery, and putting in fresh fuel. as I suggested to myself earlier. But having to keep the throttle open, suggests too much fuel. And that leads to the other things.

Seems to me the carb is badly out of adjustment. And it is spitting out bar oil like there's no tomorrow.

Time for me to stop bothering a truck forum thread with chainsaw business. ...

Please don't stop. I'm learning small engines now finally, so any tidbits of troubleshooting I can pick up if needed later is welcome! I have a lot to learn!

 

[chillman88]

I got some vinyl hose and a couple of tight elbows for the venting on a big rear tank installation at Home Depot. I couldn't remember whether the rollover valve in the tank is 1" or 3/4" so I bought one elbow of each size for the lower side.

It should be 1" I believe. Please let us know how it goes! I'm hoping to do the same. Would be nice to actually open the nozzle when filling up

 

[IDIBRONCO]

It should be 1" I believe. Please let us know how it goes! I'm hoping to do the same. Would be nice to actually open the nozzle when filling up

I sure will. I bought another 3/4" elbow to put in the filler neck. The hose is actually 5/8" I.D., but they didn't have any 3/4" I.D. vinyl hose. It's going to be fine. I Have a heat gun and know that warm, new plastic (vinyl) will stretch. Have I mentioned before that I HATE Home Depot?

 

[Selahdoor]

Please don't stop. I'm learning small engines now finally, so any tidbits of troubleshooting I can pick up if needed later is welcome! I have a lot to learn!

What I learned from this chainsaw, I am going to try to remember from now on.

When the saw will not start, if you have spark, and fuel, and air... Not even if you spray in some starter spray.

There are 3 adjustment screws on the carb.

H, L, and idle.

Very first thing you do is to open up the choke butterfly, and see if the butterfly behind that is completely closed. If so, turn the idle screw until you see the inner butterfly open about a 32nd to a 16th of an inch.

Saw should now start. If it doesn't, try opening that butterfly a tiny bit more, and make SURE you are getting fuel through the carb. (Use ether if you aren't sure.)

If it does start, get it to where it will stay running. Then adjust the L screw.

To adjust the L screw, if the chain is moving, turn it just until the chain stops. then turn it back maybe a 1/4 turn.

What you are looking for at that point is a crisp throttle. When you pull the trigger it should immediately jump to high speed, and shouldn't bog down getting there.

You can probably leave it at that, without adjusting the H screw.

There are plenty of youtube videos showing how to do all this. But this should get you into the ball park.

 

[miles1400]

yesterday started off good, i took the truck to @Danielle 's house and she helped me do wheel bearings on my truck, everything went pretty smoothly, then....... driving home getting off the highway, it is a right then a left, i was on the brakes going thru the left turn and with the road being wet the ass end slid out and i hit the concrete barrier, i am ok. the bumper and the lower peice under the grill and the LF fender and maybe some bent steering links is the only damage that i know of, the steering is way off. i will be taking it to get the frame checked as soon as i can then go from there. i already have good fenders to go on the truck.

 

[Farmer Rock]

yesterday started off good, i took the truck to @Danielle 's house and she helped me do wheel bearings on my truck, everything went pretty smoothly, then....... driving home getting off the highway, it is a right then a left, i was on the brakes going thru the left turn and with the road being wet the ### end slid out and i hit the concrete barrier, i am ok. the bumper and the lower peice under the grill and the LF fender and maybe some bent steering links is the only damage that i know of, the steering is way off. i will be taking it to get the frame checked as soon as i can then go from there. i already have good fenders to go on the truck.

I am sorry to hear that about your truck, but I am glad you are ok, and it sounds like it could of been a lot worse. Hopefully there is not too much hidden damage.



Rock

 

[Big Bart]

What I learned from this chainsaw, I am going to try to remember from now on.

When the saw will not start, if you have spark, and fuel, and air... Not even if you spray in some starter spray.

There are 3 adjustment screws on the carb.

H, L, and idle.

Very first thing you do is to open up the choke butterfly, and see if the butterfly behind that is completely closed. If so, turn the idle screw until you see the inner butterfly open about a 32nd to a 16th of an inch.

Saw should now start. If it doesn't, try opening that butterfly a tiny bit more, and make SURE you are getting fuel through the carb. (Use ether if you aren't sure.)

If it does start, get it to where it will stay running. Then adjust the L screw.

To adjust the L screw, if the chain is moving, turn it just until the chain stops. then turn it back maybe a 1/4 turn.

What you are looking for at that point is a crisp throttle. When you pull the trigger it should immediately jump to high speed, and shouldn't bog down getting there.

You can probably leave it at that, without adjusting the H screw.

There are plenty of youtube videos showing how to do all this. But this should get you into the ball park.

Some other tips -

First run only non-ethanol gas in you power equipment. It is what clogs up your carb jets and passages. If you run your gear every day for work it never has time to sit or dry up. But all of us weekend warriors can plan on carb work every time our gear sits for 1-6 months not running. In CA that means pretty much airport fuel, I do not have a plane so I am SOL. Many states have gas stations that’s offer non-ethanol fuel.

So I go to Home Depot and buy Tru-Fuel (Lowe’s and Walmart have something similar.) which is non-ethanol, treated with fuel stabilizer, and comes straight, 50:1 two stroke mix, or 40/:1 two stroke mix. Now a month later or year later my stuff runs! It’s $6 a quart and $22 a gallon but if you get stuck on the price, think about the fact you probably only use a couple gallons a year and paying for a new carb for your chainsaw, trimmer, minibike, go-cart, outboard, and mower rebuild kit is far more. If you have a large yard perhaps you run your mower on pump gas but your more sensitive trimmers, blowers, saws on Tru-Fuel. The start your mower every couple weeks or drain the gas and carb before storing it. My friends and family all are believers and tell me how unlike before, thier equipment always starts easy and runs great.

Now back to carb adjustment

1) Often for CARB or other reasons these are not screws you can get to with a screw driver. You can find a kit on Amazon or Ebay with a half dozen bit style drivers for doing this work.
2) If putting on a replacement carb or rebuilt carb. Pump your bulb till you see it mostly full with gas. Turn you L and H screws all the way in till they bottom out (Generaly clockwise. ) then back out 1/4-1/2 turn. Then try to start and start backing out the L screw every 3-4 pulls with the choke on till it starts. Then turn off the choke slowly and adjust L screw till idle seems good. You may have to use the idle/butterfly adjustment to get the rpm where you want it to idle. However be ready to pull the plug hit with brake cleaner and put back in every 12-16 pulls. I have found a wet plug will often not fire. When idle is good start to rev up and adjust your H jet till you can get to/at full or near full throttle. It should still idle and transition to high speed. As Selahdoor said now bounce between idle and high adjusting L and H till you feel you have it dialed in.
3) If you want to error on a little rich vs a little lean. Running lean can cause extra heat and premature wear/failure. So error on the side of a little rich.

 

[Big Bart]

yesterday started off good, i took the truck to @Danielle 's house and she helped me do wheel bearings on my truck, everything went pretty smoothly, then....... driving home getting off the highway, it is a right then a left, i was on the brakes going thru the left turn and with the road being wet the ass end slid out and i hit the concrete barrier, i am ok. the bumper and the lower peice under the grill and the LF fender and maybe some bent steering links is the only damage that i know of, the steering is way off. i will be taking it to get the frame checked as soon as i can then go from there. i already have good fenders to go on the truck.

So sorry to hear, accidents are such a bummer. But you are ok which is the important part.

Upside your truck punched that retaining wall in the face. Took a piece of concrete with it! . Then shook it off and drove you home.

Let me cheer you up a little more!

If you had a Tesla it would have damaged the body and steering and needed a tow. Your insurance company would just total it out saying parts and work are too expensive. If you tried to fix it, Tesla would say your unqualified and not sold you parts. Even if you were qualified said their parts are 3 months out. And no smarty pants folks, in this Tesla example it did not avoid the wall because it has ...... it hit the wall because it’s an apple and apple comparison.

They say it’s Ford tough for a reason!

 

[hacked89]

Ordered a DTI tech time.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[Laine D]

I got my oil cooler off yesterday. I found that the longer spring seemed to have less strength than the shorter one. The long one is the one that gave me the low pressure. Kinda weird.

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[miles1400]

@Bradd Barmettler the bumper got shoved in towards the tire so i couldnt turn much so i called my dad and we hooked my tow strap to his tacoma and my bumper and pulled it back out so i could drive it home

 

[ocnorb]

Got brakes on my ‘53 dump and it took it for its maiden voyage! She’s so looooooow geared with the 6.67s in the Eaton!

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[Big Bart]

Sweet ride, looks like fun! Guessing you will be doing some parades in the future!

Love the look of the cabs on these old trucks. Saw a similiar truck and vintage for sale last year for I think 5k. However just don't have time or space for another toy. We have been too busy on the weekends with my son's 67 Ford Galaxie project, should be done in a couple of months.

Who knows maybe some day!

 

[chillman88]

I'd love to build one of those into a rollback. Stuff a DT in with a 10 speed.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Saw a similiar truck and vintage for sale last year for I think 5k. However just don't have time or space for another toy. We have been too busy on the weekends with my son's 67 Ford Galaxie project, should be done in a couple of months.

I'd love to build one of those into a rollback.

See Bradd? Here's your solution. You could park the Galaxie on the roll back and keep them both in the same spot. No room issues. Then you could use the roll back to haul the Galaxie to car shows.