So what did you do with your truck today?

[DrCharles]

Your oil PRESSURE gauge will always stay in the same place until there is nothing but sucking air, at which point it drops to zero. (Ford got tired of owners asking why their oil pressure was lower at a hot idle than a cold cruise, so they replaced the pressure sender with an on/off switch).

In any case, with a 10 quart capacity, even if you're a quart or two low, you will not likely hurt anything... Remember also that the level changes with temperature (expansion when hot) and after drainback to the pan is completed after shut down.

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

You need to hit 88 for that to happen... along with 1.21 gigawatts of power

Was worth a shot.
Silly cluster ground. Those rpms tho.

 

[DrCharles]

Yeah, I was looking at that. My truck with 4.10 gears and ZF5 is turning the same rpms at 60!

 

[Jason1377]

Well I hauled off roughly 600 lbs of scrap metal today going down a mountain side what they call place here in arkansas Ramsey mountain truck was fine going up that same road with just tool box n one tank half full the truck bogged down not sure wht.

Loaded a trailer n hauled two 90's model mustangs from a yard next two my grandma to a garage about 30 miles away n she pulled nice all but stupid stop lights first time ever hauling a big trailer, made me consider a turbo.

 

[crash-harris]

Pulled the CII PS pump off or old Bronco project for the IDI. Got a wild hair today and decided to pull the now discontinued Cardone Saginaw conversion pump off Bruiser for the IDI instead. Turns out the high pressure port fits he factory high pressure hose, so the lower mileage CII went on Bruiser. Need to get new seals for the high pressure line so I can do the swap.

 

[DrCharles]

I installed the new positive battery cable this afternoon. Well worth the $78. A previous owner [PO] had made a very impressive looking setup from 3/0, maybe 4/0 battery cable, but had stripped some of the bolts on the compression terminal. When I pulled on the cable coming from the left battery it just slid out of the terminal in my hand!
:***:

So I got underneath and disconnected the starter end. There was about 6" of the original 2/0 cable and a bulky junction to the new heavy cable, wrapped with electrical tape. I was curious so I unwrapped it... and found it had been twisted and taped. Not a smart move on a circuit carrying many hundreds of amps. Or any circuit.

Also decided to remove the battery trays to cut the inboard lip (so that my Group 31 batteries don't sit on the lip). This was an adventure. To remove the left battery tray it is also necessary to remove the washer and overflow tanks. Not too bad. But the right tray was really fun because the two inboard bolts had rusted in their clip-nuts and a PO had broken the clip-nuts so the bolts just spun. Had to remove the brace that the tray mounts to, and discovered its mounting bolts (to the radiator support) had been left off entirely! And of course once I got everything out, ground off the old clip-nuts, and went to put it back correctly with new nuts, then I had to remove the grill to get to the bolt heads! Only five screws but all this "only a few more fasteners" added up.

Finally I got to the left parking brake cable. The new Rock Auto Raybestos-brand cable was smooth as butter unlike the sticky Chinese one from O'Reilly. Pulled the left wheel & drum again, put in the new cable and verified that it worked. Then the usual shoulder-burn struggle to get the cables reattached to the equalizer!

The 7.3 cranks faster and fires up sooner now too

Then I cleaned up, went to town and returned the oval Autozone drums and the sticky O'Reilly brake cable (and bought two battery hold down kits, something also omitted by a PO, had dinner and drove back home! I used the brakes moderately but steadily and let off them at stops whenever possible. The new drums are smooth like they should be, not hopping up and down like a dog passing a peach pit. Hoping they stay that way for a long time.

 

[laserjock]

I actually drove it tonight. Then I pulled the cluster and lubed the crap out of the speedo cable. Not convinced that will solve my problem but figured I’d give it a go. What do you guys use for cable lube? I went with the blaster Teflon dry film stuff. Pulled the cable clear out. Sprayed the crap out of it and put it back. I’ll find out tomorrow if it worked. Have to pick up some steel for another project.

 

[79jasper]

Man, I recall a recommendation for Speedometer cable lube in the last year or so. Can't remember who made it.
There's also a fancy doohicky for spraying in there. (Motion pro cable luber)


Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

 

[Trevtron]

Well, it's not fixed. In fact the vibration on braking is worse! The rear brakes are shaking like a dog passing a peach pit. At least one of the two brand-new drums must be out of round. I just jacked up the truck and took them off. AGAIN.
Autozone can't check them, all they do is exchange or refund. I don't want another pair made by the same hung-over guy in China! O'Reilly can get them by tomorrow morning (same price) so I'll return the Autozone ones. Lately their line of "Duralast" parts isn't what it used to be. But what *is* any more...

Clean em up and use dish soap and water to rid it of any metal particles. Then to break them in try driving up to about 35 then slowly breaking about 7-8 times. Then let them cool before using them.

Any harder stops after a fresh drum/rotor and brake job can cause a spot which can be grabby. Just sharing advice I was given after I spent the entire day with our NAPA undercar manufactures rep.

 

[Trevtron]

I actually drove it tonight. Then I pulled the cluster and lubed the crap out of the speedo cable. Not convinced that will solve my problem but figured I’d give it a go. What do you guys use for cable lube? I went with the blaster Teflon dry film stuff. Pulled the cable clear out. Sprayed the crap out of it and put it back. I’ll find out tomorrow if it worked. Have to pick up some steel for another project.

I used light coating of lithium grease, and made sure my dang cable housing was flushed out good before I ran the cable back in.

On the speedo cluster I had just used some rubbing alcohol and graphite

 

[DrCharles]

Clean em up and use dish soap and water to rid it of any metal particles. Then to break them in try driving up to about 35 then slowly breaking about 7-8 times. Then let them cool before using them.

Any harder stops after a fresh drum/rotor and brake job can cause a spot which can be grabby. Just sharing advice I was given after I spent the entire day with our NAPA undercar manufactures rep.

Yep, good advice for those not acquainted with brake installation Trust me, I did all that. As you can see in later posts, one drum was badly out-of-round. It's fixed once I got a good pair of drums (and had them checked on their brake lathe before I left the store, too!)

 

[snicklas]

I actually drove it tonight. Then I pulled the cluster and lubed the crap out of the speedo cable. Not convinced that will solve my problem but figured I’d give it a go. What do you guys use for cable lube? I went with the blaster Teflon dry film stuff. Pulled the cable clear out. Sprayed the crap out of it and put it back. I’ll find out tomorrow if it worked. Have to pick up some steel for another project.

Years ago, we used dry graphite on our 83 (this was in the late 80's and the choices were much less). It helped, but the entire time we had the 83 it was always a "flop-o-meter". I'd think the blaster dry stuff should work good.

 

[laserjock]

Years ago, we used dry graphite on our 83 (this was in the late 80's and the choices were much less). It helped, but the entire time we had the 83 it was always a "flop-o-meter". I'd think the blaster dry stuff should work good.

Well, not so much. I’m beginning to think it’s the gear in the trans and not the cable. Drove it this morning and had no speedo at all until I got almost to work. This thing is really irritating me.

 

[catbird7]

Any visual wear on the speedo cable gear?
You should have BW 1356 t-case.
Info I found on net:

Speedo cable gears:
16teeth - Wine - C0DZ-17271-A
17teeth - White - C3DZ-17271-C
18teeth - Yellow - C0DD-17271-B
19teeth - Pink - C0DZ-17271-B
20teeth - Black - C1DZ-17271-A
21teeth - Red - C40Z-17271-A

Driven Gear inside T-case
6teeth Green pn#TRS-366997-A
7teeth Yellow pn#TRS-366997
8teeth Brown pn#TRS-366997-B
(pn's from Drivetrain.com

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[crash-harris]

The drive gears can dish over time in the center where the driven gear meshes if there's enough resistance. This is why Bruiser's speedo hasn't worked in years and neither has my grandparents '98 F150 speedo.