Are these all mechanical injection diesels???
If not how are the electronic or computerized injection with wmo.
Which of these have the most used parts available or least expensive to run/service??
The two 1-KZ Toyotas are Computerised. They are very sensitive to filters plugging [even a slight amount ] so we added a helper pump at the tank which seems to cure this problem.
The Toyota Corona 2C is naturally aspirated and required a bit of work to get running OK. It was a $150 Test mule [ We broke the windshield so it was scrapped at a profit ]
The Nissan CD20 is also naturally aspirated, I needed to replace the IP as the governer was sticking [ $75 as a used item ]
Both the Mitsy's are turbo'd .
The Pajero has the "Wick" turned up [boost] and I advanced the IP about 4 degrees at idle [so it rattles at idle ]
The L200 is a junkyard engine [$80] used to experiment with. I left the boost alone but I am playing with fuel heating with W85/15 Gasoline.
Heating the fuel really cures the "Slow burning" issue with WMO , but it evaporated the gasoline content [ the part that I actually pay for ]
So what I did was loop the return hose back into the main fuel hose [ AFTER THE FILTER ] so the hot oil never returns to the tank.
Then I added a 8psi electric pump at the tank. 8psi was enough to stop the gasoline "Boiling" in the fuel hoses.
The results were impressive , instant "Black Smoke" on a POS engine, and when I turn the water heater valve off it goes "Grey smoke" again.
But slightly more difficult to start in winter when cold.
For oil to Auto-ignite it needs to Vapourise first, so pre-heating the oil closer to auto-ignition temps probably helps the timing a bit by Vapourising and Auto-igniting faster
I've been running the 2 Mitsy's "back to back" for a year as a comparison. Next I'll try and get more air into the L200 or heat the blend in the Pajero.
Heating does NOT fix the carbon / coking issue [ that I believe is a clean / dirty fuel issue ]